Sheldon

I may have hosed my 30-06 Dillon sizer die. I was trying to take the whole decapper assembly off, but in trying to back it out of the die body is got real tight. Tried to screw the assembly back in and it got to a point and got real tight again. I thought the decapper is a single piece, but am starting to think I'm wrong there. what the heck is jamming me up?

Did a quick search and saw no mention of it so I wanted to let everyone know about the deal going on at Powder Valley Inc. You buy a minimum of 10K of the Tula primers (you can mix and match)and they will ship them for free and also pay the hazmat for you. You can also add additional primers of any brand and also powders up to an additional 40lbs. worth to the order under the same free shipping and hazmat. The online order may show pending shipping charges, but they waive them at time of billing. I already got 10K of small rifle primers and that's how they did it. Pretty sweat deal if you need powders and primers right now. Powder Vallley Inc mentioned on another forum this sale will be good till the end of this month as supplies last. http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/

As previously mentioned, take the primer slide off and look for anything that might be jamming it. Sometimes the anvil pops off a primer and gets into the slide area and causes the problem you are having.

seem like it would polish your brass quickly, but it would be damaging to your tumbler in the long run. They use the Stainless media, which is small lengths of small diameter rod, with water and some cleaners, tumbled in a rotary tumbler.....not the vibratory ones most use. It takes up to 4 hours and then you have to drain the water, check for any stuck media in the cases and flash holes, and then dry the cases. I don't feel the need for that kind of hassle myself either. Looks great though. I will give them that. A guy off the SnipersHide forum was selling 5 lbs. of the media for about $50 for some miscut lot. A guy off the thread there mentioned it looked as nice without the media and just the water, dishwashing soap, and Lemi-shine. Here's a link to the thread there..... http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1513345#Post1513345 It's currently a 49 page thread!

I can feel when the primers run out on the 550B. You will also hear the punch stick some as well. I wouldn't bother ordering the buzzer it if you can feel the difference yourself.

There are a few threads about the stuff on the rimfirecentral.com ammo board....nobody had anything good to say about the steel cased green boxes of the Junior ammo. http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthrea...=russian+junior http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthrea...=russian+junior

This is a pic of the label on my 8lb jug of the Data Powder 2230-S.

The 1050 swager works, but if you have mixed brass it will work inconsistantly because the cases aren't consistant from brand to brand....sometimes even from lot to lot within the same brand. If they are all the same headstamp you have a better chance of consistant swaging. I have the Dillon dedicated swager and you can feel the differences in the cases. It's a onetime operation needed to be done to the case, so once it's done you don't have to worry about that case again as far as the primer pocket goes. What calibered brass are we talking here?? In rifle calibers Federal cases seem to get no respect as they seem to made of softer material than other makers and stretch more/get loose primer pockets faster.

Here's a good read about the differences in .223 Remington vs. 5.56 ammo. http://www.winchester.com/lawenforcement/n...aspx?storyid=11 You size them the same either way. Since the 5.56 cases maybe thicker, they would have less internal capacity and this may require a reduction in powder charge over a commercial .223 Remington case. Military cases typically have swaged primer pockets and there are a few different tools used to remove that. Dillon and RCBS sell a swager that swages the crimp out. You can use various deburring/chamfering tools to remove the swaged in metal as well.

I've never heard of anyone having any issue with reloading rounds fired out of a fluted chamber. I don't run into much of it but the few I have, loaded up without any trouble.

So what'de it end up being the problem??

Not sure, but maybe you're trying to put too much of a bell on the mouth of the case. Too much pressure on the case mouth translates to excessive pressure on the powder measure linkage. I never measuered my casemouths after belling, but there should be just enough to allow the bullets to sit on the casemouths without tipping over. I'll have to measure mine and see how they compare to yours and bgary's. Something to be careful of in reloading the 9mm Luger is to make sure none of the slightly longer 9mm cases find there way into you mix of brass....cases like the 9X23, which would stress the powder measure linkage if setup for the shorter 9mm Luger.

If they were jacketed bullets, a collet style bullet puller would be easier/quicker to use than the kinetic/jammer type. I think the lead bullets are too soft to grip with the collets style puller. Hornady makes a nice collet puller. I use the RCBS made one and it's ok, but if I was to buy another one I'de go with the Hornady one.

I read in an old post that some leave the swager unit out. If not adjusted correctly you can screw up/bend the shellplate. Whether to use it or not is a personal preference. If you keep track of your cases and know there is no chance of getting crimped cases in the mix then leaving the swager out will certainly make things go a little smoother. If you get brass off the range and don't look it over before reloading the swager is nice for the militrary brass out there you'll eventually run into. With 45 ACP and the "NT" small primered cases, I'de rather find them, assuming I missed finding them while culling the cases, at the swage station, rather than them setting off a primer at the priming station.

I have a total of three toolheads for my 1050 and figure on using my 550B for everything else. All my high volume calibers are loaded on the 1050....9mm, 38 Special, and 45 ACP. I might break down and get a conversion kit for .223 Rem and just swap the dies out on one of the 1050 toolheads later, but for now I think the 550B will do. I'm always looking for another cheap 1050 though!!!

Do the extra calibers come with the dies as well or just the conversion kits?? How many toolheads and powder dies extra?? The press setup with one conversion kit should sell for around $300 I would think. The other caliber conversion kits $30-40 depending on how bad someone wants it.

With the price of the toolhead and powder measure combo going up from $185 to $245 I would get the number of extra toolheads you figure on needing, now instead of next year!!

What you do really depends on how good your mechanical skills are. There isn't a whole lot of moving parts on the 550B so I would just lube the parts that need lube and clean up the moving parts that you you don't want lube on....like the powder measure parts and priming components. Sending to Dillon is always an option if you don't feel comfortable messing with it yourself.

The other day I looked and I believe they still have the tips, tubes, and trays available.

Well it's nice to know it isn't too big a deal. I do wonder though if it did happen whether the results wouldn't look like a detonation round guys talk about and attribute to "low" powder charged cases??

I get a little paranoid when I get a light primer strike and will stop and either eject that round or realign that round for an additional hit to see if it won't go off after a second hit. My fear is that with the light hit on the primer might have made it now sensitive to going off from the shock of subsequent recoil of addition shots while it isn't aligned with the barrel. I imagine it's possible, but is it likely?? Do guys in competitions even think about the possiblity or has anyone heard of this being any issue at all??

Midway still sells the trays. It looks like all you would need to do to make one is glue/epoxy a guide to hold the tube in place and attach a vibrating source. I was thinking along the lines of one of my kids old vibrating toothbrushes as a vibration source. A shield of some sort might be a good idea, especially if you get a detonation for whatever reason. I still wonder if some type of detonation isn't the reason behind why they have been discontinued. I think most of us with them hold the tubes by hand when using them.

Not the safest way to keep primers stored. I read somewhere, (possibly a reloading manual?) where someone who dropped a similar sized container full of primers and was either kiled or seriously injured.........assuming it was a true story, but I can see that being the result. I was shocked to hear the Vibra Prime tools being dropped as well. I'm glad I got an extra one!!!

Yeah, but only a one year warranty on the 1050......not that anything should break if adjusted right. Love mine!!

If you're trimming, I take it you're reloading a rifle case? I had about 1500 military 45 ACP cases that had crimped primer pockets. They were all the same brand and I just adjusted the swager and loaded them all up. I have noticed while setting the macine up in 9mm, that the various brands of brass are different and can feel that in the handle of the press as the swaging occurs. Stubbicat, on the Dillon 1050 press it has a built in swaging mechanism.