Rob D Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Hey guys. I've read as much as I can find and have picked up some very useful information using the search button, but I still have a few questions about my first rifle. I just bought a certificate for a bushmaster predator off the classifieds. I want to have a comp put on it, then I guess I'll need some sights. My question is about low-budget options for sights to get started. I had to stretch my wallet to buy the rifle(even after getting an awesome deal), so I'm not in a position where I can spend $400-600 on a scope right now. Should I start with Iron sights, and if so, what are some good options I can mount on the predator? I like the peep sight with a post. If you think I should start with an optic, which one? I would need something under $200 that will last long enough for me to figure out what I really want and save the cash for it. I've been shooting pistol matches for a year, and I'm wanting to at least try 3gun. What's the 3gun equivalent of a glock17 in an uncle mikes kydex holster? In other words, what's the least I can spend and still be able to come out and shoot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 (edited) The Predator is designed foremost for hunting. Its an OK starting point (20" barrel, flat top receiver, free float handguard, match trigger), but a significant deficiency is the lack of a threaded muzzle. If I were you, I would ask Bushmaster if they can substitute a barrel with a threaded muzzle (1/2"-28tpi, same as for a standard flash hider). Even if they apply a small upcharge, it will save you a bigger gunsmithing bill later. If you are remotely serious about 3-gunning, I guarantee you will want a muzzle brake. Even a cheap one like the Mickulek would be a HUGE benefit. Oh, and you might ask them if they could send you 30-round mags instad of the (not-optimal-for-3-gun) 5-round mags . As for sights, the Predator does not have a front sight block. Your options would be to buy a scope and mount, or a clamp-on front sight base/sight (install it just behind the muzzle for max sight radius) and A2-type rear sight. The cost for irons or a budget priced scope would probably run about the same in the end, so just decide which way you prefer to go. Honestly, most people shoot a single optic in the Tactical Scope division; for this division, and given your budget, you can't do better than a Weaver V3 1-3x variable scope. The V3 is well under your $200 budget, but you will also have to spring for a set of mounting rings, and possibly a centilever riser to get the necessary eye relief. Here is a picture of my backup rifle with this scope on some generic rings and a PRI riser rail: Edited April 18, 2009 by StealthyBlagga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle O Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Whatever you get will be fine. Make sure it fits/works, and you are comfortable manipulating and shooting it. Get a sling. P-mags are great. I got an aftermarket grip on mine, and a good trigger (3lb single stage). As far as sights, I shot open sights for a couple of years, then put on an EO tech. It really depends on the match. Long shots = magnified optic for me. Closer targets say <100yds then no magnification. Good luck, and let us know. Go to a local 3-gun match, and I'm sure more than a few of the guys/girls will let you try out their rigs. Find out what YOU like before you buy, and it'll save you mucho dinero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Get a sling. Not needed at most matches - certainly not a priority versus the other stuff you will need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 +1 on the WEAVER V3 1-3x they are great scopes and only about $150 retail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob D Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 The Predator is designed foremost for hunting. Its an OK starting point (20" barrel, flat top receiver, free float handguard, match trigger), but a significant deficiency is the lack of a threaded muzzle. If I were you, I would ask Bushmaster if they can substitute a barrel with a threaded muzzle (1/2"-28tpi, same as for a standard flash hider). Even if they apply a small upcharge, it will save you a bigger gunsmithing bill later. If you are remotely serious about 3-gunning, I guarantee you will want a muzzle brake. Even a cheap one like the Mickulek would be a HUGE benefit. Thanks for the barrel reccomendation. Is there anything specific I should ask for in a barrel besides the threaded muzzle? The predator comes stock with a fluted bull barrel. I thought I could just get someone to thread it for me, but if it's going to be more expensive that way I'll definitely see if they'll let me substitute a threaded barrel. My plan was to get a TSS rolling thunder comp since that's what a lot of local guys have reccomended. So 30 round mags are the standard? I wasn't sure whether to order those or 20 rounders. Sounds like the weaver is the way to go. I'll get one ordered. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Is there anything specific I should ask for in a barrel besides the threaded muzzle? The predator comes stock with a fluted bull barrel. I thought I could just get someone to thread it for me, but if it's going to be more expensive that way I'll definitely see if they'll let me substitute a threaded barrel. My plan was to get a TSS rolling thunder comp since that's what a lot of local guys have reccomended. A Bull Barrel is a bit too heavy, and fluting does not save that much (fluting is not common amongst 3-gunners). I like a Heavy Barrel (HB) profile myself, for its recoil damping and ability to stay true as it gets hot, but many others like something lighter such as a Government Profile (machined thin under the handguards to save weight). The fluting adds cost, so Bushmaster may be willing to delete this in favor of threading at no added cost to you. If you have a choice, go with a stainless barrel or a chrome-lined barrel. I prefer a 5.56 chamber for extra reliability, but .223 should be OK if you keep it clean (some like a Wilde chamber, but I'm not sure if Bushmaster can offer this). You could have had the barrel threaded by a gunsmith later. The cost would probably be in the $1-200 range, but being without the gun for weeks or months will be a real PITA. Better to get what you want from the factory if at all possible. Call Bushy and see what they can do. So 30 round mags are the standard? I wasn't sure whether to order those or 20 rounders. Yes, 30 round mags are the baseline. One 20 rounder is good to have, as is at least one 40+ rounder, but 90% of your 3-gunning will be done with 30 round mags. I use plain vanilla GI mags with MagPul anti-tilt followers, and they work 100% (price can't be beat). Others swear by PMags (though I've seen them go down as much as anything else). Sounds like the weaver is the way to go. I'll get one ordered. Thanks. Check out Natchez... I saw they have them for $140. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsimpso1 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 You have good advice so far. The big question you need to answer is what are the nature of the matches you will go to. If the rifle stages are almost all just pistol stages fired with a rifle (common in MI), short and light topped with a red dot is the buzz. If the rifle stages have plate racks at 300 yards, you need a magnified optic, a nice trigger, and a more conventional heft and barrel length. What kind of rifle stages do you have in OK? Billski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Rob, what you have isn't a bull barrel, the Bushmaster fluted barrels are just fine. I use one on my practice iron sight rifle and it isn't "to heavy". Any good machine shop can thread your barrel, as well as several Gunsmiths around town, ask Calvin Rogers at the next match. I can usually find a shop to do the job for around a $50 set up fee. A good economy brake is the Jerry Miculek brake and can be found for around $50 or less. As for ranges Old Fort can and does run out to 300yds, most the local stuff runs around 150. If you can wait a bit, talk to Curly, Mike Pinto, or Javier Martinez at the next OKC match and they can help you a bunch. I will be back in town around the 15th of May and would be happy to help when I get back. KurtM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob D Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 Rob, what you have isn't a bull barrel, the Bushmaster fluted barrels are just fine. I use one on my practice iron sight rifle and it isn't "to heavy". Any good machine shop can thread your barrel, as well as several Gunsmiths around town, ask Calvin Rogers at the next match. I can usually find a shop to do the job for around a $50 set up fee. A good economy brake is the Jerry Miculek brake and can be found for around $50 or less. As for ranges Old Fort can and does run out to 300yds, most the local stuff runs around 150. If you can wait a bit, talk to Curly, Mike Pinto, or Javier Martinez at the next OKC match and they can help you a bunch. I will be back in town around the 15th of May and would be happy to help when I get back. KurtM Thanks Kurt. I checked the overall weight to see if the barrel would make it much heavier, and the predator weighs about 8lbs if I remember correctly vs. 6.6lbs for their entry m4. Like you said, I doubt that will matter at all. I'll definitely ask Calvin about that. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfactor Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Another good way to improve your setup on a budget is to get a Bill Springfield trigger job (www.triggerwork.net) You just send him your hammer/disco/sear and a check for $50, and he returns to you (usually in just a few days) tuned parts and new springs for a really sweet single stage trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob D Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Another good way to improve your setup on a budget is to get a Bill Springfield trigger job (www.triggerwork.net) You just send him your hammer/disco/sear and a check for $50, and he returns to you (usually in just a few days) tuned parts and new springs for a really sweet single stage trigger. Sounds like a heck of a deal. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Another good way to improve your setup on a budget is to get a Bill Springfield trigger job (www.triggerwork.net) You just send him your hammer/disco/sear and a check for $50, and he returns to you (usually in just a few days) tuned parts and new springs for a really sweet single stage trigger. Sounds like a heck of a deal. Thanks! I think your Bushmaster will come with a 2-stage match trigger. I would not think it will need any more tweaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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