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ball detent


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Speed-

I use the crane ball and spring kit from Brownells. It includes a staking punch.

CRANE BALL DRILLING FIXTURE for S&W

Mfr: POWER CUSTOM

Add Cylinder Lock-Up Strength The Foolproof Way

Adding a spring-loaded, locking ball in the cylinder crane is standard practice on Smith & Wesson K, L and N Frame revolvers, especially when installing a bull barrel. Steel fixture holds the crane secure and in proper alignment for drilling; makes it virtually impossible to mislocate the hole or drill at the wrong angle. Comes complete with No. 30 drill bit, .125” diameter locking balls, springs, and staking punch.

SPECS: Drilling Fixture - Steel, blued finish. 1½" (3.8cm) long, 1" (2.5cm) wide, 2" (5.1cm) high. Includes No. 30 cobalt drill bit, (20) 302 SS locking balls, 20 springs, and staking punch. Crane Ball & Spring Kit - Contains 20 locking balls, 20 springs, and staking punch. Crane Ball & Spring Refill - Contains 10 balls and 10 springs. Designed for K, L and N Frame yokes only.

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Speed-

I use the crane ball and spring kit from Brownells. It includes a staking punch.

CRANE BALL DRILLING FIXTURE for S&W

Mfr: POWER CUSTOM

Add Cylinder Lock-Up Strength The Foolproof Way

Adding a spring-loaded, locking ball in the cylinder crane is standard practice on Smith & Wesson K, L and N Frame revolvers, especially when installing a bull barrel. Steel fixture holds the crane secure and in proper alignment for drilling; makes it virtually impossible to mislocate the hole or drill at the wrong angle. Comes complete with No. 30 drill bit, .125” diameter locking balls, springs, and staking punch.

SPECS: Drilling Fixture - Steel, blued finish. 1½" (3.8cm) long, 1" (2.5cm) wide, 2" (5.1cm) high. Includes No. 30 cobalt drill bit, (20) 302 SS locking balls, 20 springs, and staking punch. Crane Ball & Spring Kit - Contains 20 locking balls, 20 springs, and staking punch. Crane Ball & Spring Refill - Contains 10 balls and 10 springs. Designed for K, L and N Frame yokes only.

Cool I found it. I'm assuming that that punch they give has a small hole in bottom to allow ball to go into partially. Am I correct? Is it difficult to put a detent ball/spring in dovetail accurately, also I'm trying to figure out how to center the ball once in the frame with hole in bottom of racker. Not sure if measuring will be exact.

Thanks again

al

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Once the ball is installed with spring pressure behind it, run the racker back and forth in the dovetail. The ball will make a line

on the other part where the center of the ball drags on the surface. You can then use a fine pointed object in the drill chuck

to center the drill on the line.

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Once the ball is installed with spring pressure behind it, run the racker back and forth in the dovetail. The ball will make a line

on the other part where the center of the ball drags on the surface. You can then use a fine pointed object in the drill chuck

to center the drill on the line.

Good idea. So once I see the line on bottom of racker that gives me center long ways how about other way? measure?

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The other way is not too critical. If you have calipers, open them to the desired number,tighten the little thumbscrew on top

to keep it in place, and use one jaw for an edge guide and one jaw to scribe a line across the line made by the ball.

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The other way is not too critical. If you have calipers, open them to the desired number,tighten the little thumbscrew on top

to keep it in place, and use one jaw for an edge guide and one jaw to scribe a line across the line made by the ball.

Got it. SO once the ball detent is in the dovetail I will slide the racker back&fourth which will make a line on bottom of racker, this is center line, then use calipers and measure from one edge of dovetail on frame to center of ball, lock calipers at that point-then transfer that measurement to bottom of racker perpendicular to other line, this is center. Drill it! Do I have it?

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That's it! It's much easier to do than to explain. You may want to center punch where the lines cross to keep the drill from walking.

That was my next question. That always happens to me.... the bit moves a little and I get a sloppy looking hole. Which is best to start with...a center drill? Also I guess I'll have to take a measurement of the ball and also the spring when compressed to get my overall drill depth- Then drill into slide a bit deeper than this overall measurement. If that ends up being too deep I guess I can cut coils of spring. Not sure exactly how deep I will want the ball to compress below top of slide to give me good pressure onto bottom of racker. I'm thinking maybe 1/8 inch below dovetail should do.. Not sure though.

BTW I thank you for these ideas. I can tell you know what your talking about.

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A center drill is always the best way to start a hole. Drill the hole as deep as you can without having problems (like drilling into the

firing pin hole), then cut the spring to be two coils above, put the ball on top and make sure it will compress flush or below the

surface before staking. If it won't go down far enough, cut off half a coil at a time until it will go. Put the cut end in the bottom of

the hole and the closed end under the ball.

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A center drill is always the best way to start a hole. Drill the hole as deep as you can without having problems (like drilling into the

firing pin hole), then cut the spring to be two coils above, put the ball on top and make sure it will compress flush or below the

surface before staking. If it won't go down far enough, cut off half a coil at a time until it will go. Put the cut end in the bottom of

the hole and the closed end under the ball.

Very cool. I got it. I thank you again for your responces. They were very helpful.

Thanks again

al

Happy Holidays!

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