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New Rifle.


jros3e

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Are you assuming the top of the scope cap is flat and you have the scope level? That's not the best method. Hang a plumb bob and check the vertical cross hair. It can tell if you have the reticle is straight up and down which is more important than the top cap being level (or any other exterior part of the scope). When you make adjustments on the scope, the little wires on the inside move, not anything on the exterior, so don't use something on the exterior for verification. It will cause tracking issues at distance. Leupold scopes have a reputation for having a slight degree of cant to the reticle.

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I still find it funny the $11.5k rifle has a "low dollar" scope on it.

What Bobby & Trapr said is true. I'm learning that with my LR/T that while everything is "square" on the exterior, there's a slight cant in the reticle. I hold it's "level", but when I look at my level, it's off.

Rich

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Are you assuming the top of the scope cap is flat and you have the scope level? That's not the best method. Hang a plumb bob and check the vertical cross hair. It can tell if you have the reticle is straight up and down which is more important than the top cap being level (or any other exterior part of the scope). When you make adjustments on the scope, the little wires on the inside move, not anything on the exterior, so don't use something on the exterior for verification. It will cause tracking issues at distance. Leupold scopes have a reputation for having a slight degree of cant to the reticle.

So you level the rifle with a level and then use a plumb line to level the scope?

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Correct. I level the rifle in as many places as possible. Typically the base and the flats of the bottom of the rings. I then put the scope in the bottom of the rings and use a string (large enough that you can see it through the scope) hanging from something 50 yards away with a weight tied to the bottom to keep the string straight. I then align the vertical cross hairs to the string. That way, as you dial the scope up or down, everything is going to track true. If your scope is canted on the rifle, you will induce windage correction that isn't there, meaning as you add 40 minutes to the scope to shoot at something 1000 yards away, you are also moving the POI left or right in relation to how you have the scope canted. Does that make any sense? Hope it helps. If you have any questions feel free to ring me or shoot me an email.

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After a lot of work for zeroing here is the final results. The first shot down-right it was by mistake. B)

post-5513-1249525104_thumb.png

I used a Kestrel 4000 and a Leupold spotting scope for help.

post-5513-1249525221_thumb.jpg post-5513-1249525237_thumb.jpg

Also i took the informations that i needed from Ballistic Calculator for shooting from 300 yard.

post-5513-1249525317_thumb.jpg

I still find it funny the $11.5k rifle has a "low dollar" scope on it.

You have right Rich. We had and a AI with a S&B PM II scope on it and it was a lot better from Leupold.

I am thinking to order this .

What caliber did you go with?

Randy, the rifle is .308 WIN.

For this excellent group i used Remington PREMIER MATCH ammo (RM308W7).

Another photo from the range.

post-5513-1249525821_thumb.jpg

Ioannis

PS: About the diopter i am looking for S&B USMC model. It has the USMC logo on it. Has anyone seen it on the web? I can not find it nowhere.

Edited by jros3e
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Nice rifle! Your really have to invest more on your glass. I use a 12x42 56mm Nightforce on my GA Precision and can see in the dark, highly recommended! It is fun shooting the bugs that land on the target at 100 yards.

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