Redding Competition Sizing Die Question

[nhglyn]

I switched my dies (38 Super) over to a 1050 and have to readjust everything. I can't find the instructions for the Redding Sizing die. Do I screw it all the way down to the shellplate? I did this and was starting to get a ring of brass just up from the head. The cases also feel like they are "sticking" as the handle is pulled down and then back up. Should I be getting that much resistance?

Is this the best sizing/decapping die on the market? Are there others that are better? I tried the EGW undersize die but that shaves material off the casing so I put it away.

Help or suggestions appreciated.

Edited March 31, 2007 by nhglyn

[miyamoto]

Yeah, I use this for 9mm

Set up by raising ram to uppermost position, then turn die clockwise until bottom of die touches shellplate, then turn die counterclockwise to bring micrometer graduations in front, then tighten set screw on lock ring. This just barely back die off shellplate slightly.

An an aside, I have just received Uniqueteks toolhead clamp in the mail. Uniquetek says this clamp will actually allow you to get the redding comp. seating die to be worth a crap( won't help with your 1050). otherwise with the tool head movement, it is a waste of cash according to uniquetek. I have a new bullet (precision bullets 147gr 9mm and magtech 124/5gr ?) to test this week as a load for next bulk purchase.

Part of me wanted to refute uniquetek simply because I like the cool factor of the redding die...but I could honestly never determine a measurable improvement over my stock dillon dies over several hundred thousand rounds of reloading over several years. Sure is a bitchen lookin die though

Anyway...uniquetek claims with the toolhead clamp, I should get my moneys worth out of my redding at long last. I will endeavor to record any relevance, but I do know my tool head moves a good deal (my 650 is older than dirt and a very early model). I will get a new one of those too, to swap with the uniqetek clamp for variance tests.

Will

Edited March 31, 2007 by miyamoto

[HSMITH]

Where is the material shaving from? Both in the Redding and the U-die? Neither should shave the brass, and with no more information than I have it almost sounds like the shell plate and and tool head aren't lined up well. Can you post a picture of the ring? If you are using the Redding Pro series die for sizing be aware that it has a big flare at the bottom like the Dillon and the 'ring' is probably just unsized case right under where the carbide ring stopped. A little case lube will go a LONG way to making the press run smoother and take the hitch of using the U-die out. I won't load without a little One Shot anymore, it just works so much better than clean dry cases.

Will is right about how to set the depth of the Redding CSD, but for the sizer just run it down to touch the shellplate lightly. You want it to take the slop out of the toolhead, just a little bit of pressure to cam over the handle fully.

Will, I don't believe the Uniquetek claims at all. True, my Reddings aren't any more consistent than any other quality die when it comes to seating to the same OAL. They are however VERY consistent just like the other quality dies. Easily within .0015" with a quality bullet measured with a comparator. The only handgun bullets I have found that are consistent enough to really judge using OAL without a comparator are XTP's, they will go under .003" variation using calipers.

Where the Redding seating die makes its difference is in how straight the bullets are seated, and that is what it was designed to 'fix'. It seats bullets straighter in the case than anything else I have found, and that makes a much bigger difference in accuracy than even .010" of OAL variation would.

Using the Dillon as a single stage or a turret then YES the toolhead clamps make a difference. Use them fully progressive and the toolhead clamps lighten your wallet. The press does sound a little better using them but nowhere near enough to justify the price.....

EDIT: spelling and content

Edited March 31, 2007 by HSMITH

[Steve_P]

Hello,

I just found this thread in a search. I have the same Redding competition size die in 38 super and am getting brass shaving on some of my cases.

Brass is mostly starline 38SC.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you fix it?

Thanks,

Steve

Edit to add: This is happening even when using case lube.

Edited February 23, 2010 by Steve_P