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S & W 625 Cylinders


granderojo

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I don't know, but I dont think so. When I bought the new cylinder for my 625 it had to be fit and timed to the gun. Same when I tried to install the 625 take-off cylinder to my 25-2.

See if you can swap the ratchet between cylinders, that may help you.

RGS, Carmoney?

Is it a simple swap to change cylinder assemblys between a 625-2 & a 625-8, both in 45acp? Any advise is welcomed. Thanks
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Actually, the ratchets will be different. The 625-2 will have the original "round" style with the locator pins, the 625-8 will have the newer weird style that uses the shape of the star to keep itself aligned.

It's possible the entire cylinder assembly can be swapped in, but it will almost certainly need to be fit and timed.

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Not possible. the 25-5 has a longer cylinder, to take the .45 Colt. Thus the barrel only sticks out of the frame a short distance, to meet the cylinder. The shorter .45 ACP cylinder will not meet the barrel, leaving a finger-sized gap.

I suppose in an emergency you could do something like that, but as soon as the first bad guy dropped his (whatever) I'd be scooping that up.

If you really wanted to rebuild the gun, you'd need both a 25-2/625 barrel and cylinder. You could probably buy a new one for the cost of parts and labor to rebuild a 25-5. Or less-expensive still; sell the 25-5 and buy new.

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Not possible. the 25-5 has a longer cylinder, to take the .45 Colt. Thus the barrel only sticks out of the frame a short distance, to meet the cylinder. The shorter .45 ACP cylinder will not meet the barrel, leaving a finger-sized gap.

You could set the 25-5 barrel back and shorten the ejector rod, then fit a 25-2 cylinder to it. I had an 8-3/8" 25-5 barrel on my 25-2 for awhile, used it for 8-pin occasionally.

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For the cost of the delicate lathe work setting a barrel back that far would run you, plus the cost of a 25-2/625 cylinder, you could be most of the way to a new 625.

There were a lot of things we did in the old days that don't bear economic scrutiny now.

As a "proof of skill" test, for a prospective gunsmith hire, I'd be happy to hand that to someone. As an inexpensive means of getting a 25-5 into a 25-2 clone configuration, I'd pass.

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As a "proof of skill" test, for a prospective gunsmith hire, I'd be happy to hand that to someone. As an inexpensive means of getting a 25-5 into a 25-2 clone configuration, I'd pass.

I'll let you know how Randy Lee does with that. He has gotten all A's so far, so we'll see how my 25-5 eight inch comes out. I had an extra Ti cyl so what else to do?

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Not possible. the 25-5 has a longer cylinder, to take the .45 Colt. Thus the barrel only sticks out of the frame a short distance, to meet the cylinder. The shorter .45 ACP cylinder will not meet the barrel, leaving a finger-sized gap.

You could set the 25-5 barrel back and shorten the ejector rod, then fit a 25-2 cylinder to it. I had an 8-3/8" 25-5 barrel on my 25-2 for awhile, used it for 8-pin occasionally.

That is a cool idea. I always wanted a .45 ACP blued mountain gun for USPSA, but I understand they are very rare & expensive - plus I have a 625 that I use, so I don't need it & can't justify it. Still I though about finding a used 25-13 .45 Long Colt Mountain Gun and maybe converting it with a cyclinder & the mods noted above.

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Hmmm, 8", Ti cylinder, blued old-school gun, .45 ACP moonclips. You guys are cruel.

Uh, I probably shouldn't tell you that it was new in the box. Don't worry though, I'll get the Ti cyl coated w/ black T to match.

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Most 625 use the long cylinder that same as 45 long colt. The PC shop guns use a short cylinder made just for the PC guns. How do I know this. I bought a TI Cylinder in hopes of putting in my PC625-8. No luck. So sold the Ti Cylinder.

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Most 625 use the long cylinder that same as 45 long colt. The PC shop guns use a short cylinder made just for the PC guns. How do I know this. I bought a TI Cylinder in hopes of putting in my PC625-8. No luck. So sold the Ti Cylinder.

No, no, no......there are three lengths.....the PC cylinder is the shortest, but the regular ACP cylinder is still way shorter than the .45 LC cylinder.

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The 625-2 will have the original "round" style with the locator pins, the 625-8 will have the newer weird style that uses the shape of the star to keep itself aligned.

If you will look at the newer "weird style" closely, you will see that it is actually "square".

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Hmmm, 8", Ti cylinder, blued old-school gun, .45 ACP moonclips. You guys are cruel.

With all it's warts, this still works. This was my winter project. I understand the barrel once lived in an "8-pin" gun for a time.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=7054

Incidentally, this gun is proof positive that anyone with a few hand tools and a little help and advice from some friends can come up with a quality trigger pull and a longer sight radius. Don't be afraid to take off the side plate and see what is going on in there. It's all part of your education. Get Jerry's video, Patrick and Kuhnhausen's books and a Brownell catalog and educate yourselves. And remember, always grind on the cheapest part and go easy on the locktite. You might want to get back in there some day.

Edited by slflr
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You'd day that, it's been dremelized.

So, how does it shoot?

It shoots great. I have only shot it at one match, the Florida Open. There was less muzzle flip even though the gun weighs less than a stock 5" 625. It is more remarkable because my ammo chronoed at 186pf. From my other 625, I would have expected 165-170 or less due to the cold temps that weekend. With a barrell that long, I'm not sure you need sights. When I put the gun together, I used a synthetic oil instead of the usual rem oil. That was a mistake.

It slowed the action down so much (in the cold weather) that I had a major problem with missfires. I have since gone back to rem oil. One should never change things just before a big match. Better to stick with something you know works. I learned that in racing many years ago. I got a great deal of pleasure shooting this gun knowing I had done all the work myself. One thing I am pleased with is the lack of overtravel in the trigger. I made a oversize trigger stop pin when I found out I could not drill the trigger due to the hardness of the metal. Not having a spare trigger and not wanting to screw something up, I took a piece of drill rod and cut it over length. A piece of 6 penny nail would probably work too. Most recently I have discovered Kydex. Pretty amazing what you can do with that stuff for holsters and ammo carriers. But thats another thread. I like the Hogue grips but have changed to the grips with grooves. I have quite a pile of those with and without grooves if anyone is interested.

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