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Converting a 629 to 625


Rufus The Bum

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  • 2 weeks later...

You'll also need a new cylinder stop thingie, the one that sits on the frame, left side, lower rear of the cylinder cutout.

The process goes something like this; Remove the cylinder, barrel and punch out the thingie. (I can't remember the S&W name for it.)

Fit the cylinder to the frame and crane, adjusting for minimum headspace and no endshake. Then, fit the barrel for correct timing and cylinder gap. Finally, install and file the thingie to fit so the cylinder stays on the gun when you eject, but the brass and moon clip clear it.

Then, do all the customising you'd do to turn it into a match gun.

Unless you're doing the work yourself, or get the parts real cheap, a new gun is a better path. Especially if you just sell the 629 to finance it.

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Rufus,

Have to throw my hat in with the others....... I've been there and done that. By the time your are done, you will have way too much invested in the piece. And as an added negative (check this out with a gunsmith), I was informed that the .45 Smith and Wesson cylinder shouldn't be used with heavy loads, as the outer chamber wall is too thin. I am NOT a gunsmith, but I was told that by more than one source.

Just sharing the info that I received. HOWEVER, do check out the strength factor on the cylinder............ don't want any accidents here!!!!

Best,

Jeff

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The .45 ACP cylinder is shorter than the .44 Mag cylinder, so if you have the cylinder reamed and rechambered, you'll have to go with a .45 Colt barrel, from a 25-5.

As for the thin walls, if by power you mean magnum level loads, yes, it is thin. However, the gun is plenty strong enough to stand up to a steady diet of Pin loads, 195PF-220PF.

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