Ti Striker?

[WildWest N AZ]

I been reading about doing the TI striker to benafit some trigger work. It seems some people swear by them and others see them as reliablity issue? Wondering if any of you fellow Glock shooters can shed some light on this issue?

Thanks for the help!

[BR]

To me the lightened striker makes a big improvement in trigger break. While both steel and titanium strikers can fracture and break, I understand that Ti is more brittle and much more prone to breaking. LS makes a lightened steel striker, or you can lighten the stock one yourself. Cheeers,

-br

[vincent]

Not worth the money in a gun that gets shot and/or dry fired a lot. A modified stock striker is a better idea.

I haven't seen a Ti one break. What I've seen in my own gun and a few of my friends guns is the anodizing wear through where the striker contacts the trigger bar. Once the hard anodizing is gone the soft Ti underneath quickly wears away. As the engagement surface wears away the gun eventually goes full auto. This is after a lot of shooting and dry firing.

I've never had this problem with a steel one and I've put many more rounds on the steel ones since switching away from Ti.

[Hank Frank]

Could one of you gentlemen elaborate a little on how you lighten a stock steel striker?

I have tried to center or end drill the striker, but the metal is extremely hard and my drill bits won't work. Also, how much lighter is the modified striker? Any help would be appreciated...Hank

[WildWest N AZ]

I did abit of research LS makes a lightened steel striker, And this odd part I just got the Glock in competion Book and it explains abit on how to lighten the stock striker. It seems to take abit of time and in my mind seems to be a pain to get right.

[BR]

I use a Lightning Strike lightened steel.

-br

[SouthpawG26]

Could one of you gentlemen elaborate a little on how you lighten a stock steel striker?

I

Careful dremeling, one groove lengthwise, one vertically in the rear. Elected not to have the "Dale Rhea"- 45degr angle on the lug, it seemed to give uneven wear on the triggerbar on a friend's gun.

I previously tried both the LS Ti striker (47 grains, 3.05 grams) and the LS steel model (80 grains, 5.18 grams), but found the slightly oversized geometry of LS strikers in general, and especially in the rear lug area, to result in more friction within the spacer as well as more engagement with the triggerbar than necesarry.

So that's why I went with a modified stock item: stock weight: 115 grains, 7.45 grams, modified model: 85 grains, 5.50 grams.

I also use Ralph's triggerbar, springs (striker spring polished inside and out), marine cups, some thoughtful lubing in unconventional areas, and a polished Ghost ultimate 3.5 connector (the one with the debris slot), LWD trigger housing with overtravel stop.

TP: 1.5-1.75lb consistent, no problems in 8000 rds so far. And yes, you DO need a lighter striker to get reliable strikes with light striker springs IMHO.

Edited October 17, 2006 by SouthpawG26

[Hank Frank]

Southpaw...thank you for the info and the pictures...I'll be giving this a try today. I had to quit working on electronic circuit boards 20 years ago because my hands weren't steady enough...this could be a chalange.

Brian...I may have to resort to the lighting strike lightweight steel strikers if I don't have the skill to do this type of "operation". {Sounds like I'm a doctor)

Wildwest...I will take a look at the book. I like how Southpaw did his...it's simple, and after 8000 rounds, it must work.

Thank you all for the input...Hank