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Hank Frank

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Everything posted by Hank Frank

  1. Even though I made one from a long bolt, the biggest problem I had to "accurate measurements" was the scale. Until I found a fishing scale that would retain the measurement upon completion (like the RCBS 8lb trigger scale), I found the device kinda undesirable to use. I'll take one. Good luck with the venture...Hank
  2. Just wait until I see R-----. Have a good day....Hank
  3. I had forgotten all about this thread...since I've corrected most of my problems. (1) I raised the mounting base for the 1050's higher, and now I stand...or sit on a high bar stool. As Eric stated in an earlier post, my left hand needs to be below my heart line...really helps! (2) I took the steel handles off and put a 2 inch upward bend in each one so I don't have to push the handle down so far. (are you listening Dillon) This has really made a difference and made reloading easier and more enjoyable. (3) As for the bullet tray, I have tried just about every possibility. I settled on Dillon's aluminum tray, even though I feel they could have come up with a much better design for the 1050. I mounted the tray as they instructed, but I moved the 2 steel studs holding the case feeder to the rear mounting holes. This moved the bullet tray rearward and much closer to the seating station. Much easier on my left wrist. One is probably going to ask, "is the plastic tube from the case feeder still verticle?" Yes, and since none of the tubes were verticle to begin with, and I have the luxury of 4 combinations to mix and match by moving the case feeders from press to press, I came up with a combination that allows all 4 presses to be fine. I strongly suggest everyone consider bending the handle up (not too far since you'll have to reach too far on the up stroke), and moving the mounting posts to the rear holes to allow the bullet tray to be closer to the seating station. ( You can always move it back it it doesn't work for you. ) Thank you all for your input....Hank
  4. Yes. Makes me feel a lot better. I hope to be trying some bullets today. Thanks...Hank
  5. I bought a small container of Solo 1000 this weekend at a gun show. Two items concern me. The seal came off too easily, and the powder has very little smell to it. Is Solo 1000 almost odorless? Thanks...Hank
  6. Your handle does have the 3 length positions, right? I run mine at 'shortest' and far prefer it like that. Shred....I do run mine in the shortest detent also. Yesterday I took the handles off the 1050's and preceeded to put a 2' bend at the center of each arm. What a difference it makes on the down stroke (actually I think 2 1/2" would have been more ideal). This is what Dillon should have done to begin with on these presses. Dillon should come out with a new handle with this upward bend. ( I wonder if I will get any royalties if they take my advice. Have a good day...Hank
  7. AlamoShooter....I think you've nailed my wrist problem. That is exactly what happens with my wrist. I'll be in the basement in a few minutes to refabricate my old unit, or just make a new one. I just have one last problem to overcome now that I've raised my chair. I need to change the throw of the 1050 handle. I don't want it to go down so far...it makes me have to bend a little. (or I need to get a longer right arm) If I could get the handle to stop sooner on the down stroke, it would be more comfortable. I may try to put a slight upward bend in the handle, or try to see if I can get the shaft going through the press to re-index differently. Ealier today, a person at Dillon said the handle on the 1050 he had just tried, stops at his belt and he's 5'10". I'm 5'11" , and my handle goes almost down to the bottom of my pants pocket. I have the older RL1050, and I'm sure he was using the Super 1050. The only explanation seems that their press must be mounted a lot higher than mine. Thanks...Hank
  8. Eric...I think I'm going to try a butt seat from my bass boat (which I don't use anymore). I'll just have to figure out a way to mount it. Looks like I'll have to raise the press a little bit so I don't have to reach so far on the down stroke. You are correct about getting into shape. I tell the doctor every time I visit that I know what a person 85 or a zombie must feel like. He has no response. I plan to start bike riding as soon as the weather gets better here in Missouri. We are planning a 250 mile 4 day trip in June...I may get to find out what an ambulance ride is like, considering I could only go about 10 miles right now. (with no up hills) Loves2Shoot....I would buy a few KISS feeders, but I would have to give up the powder check station, and I get a feeling of safety (can't think of a good word this early) with that device installed. Hank
  9. Eric...just got back from the basement, and standing does seem easier. I have to bend over a little bit on the down stroke, which means the press has to be raised, if I'm able to load standing up. I would never have thought to stand. I raised a chair up about 5 inches and I may have found an acceptable compremise. Weired not having my feet flat on the floor. I'm in my mid 60's, over weight, and have circulation problems....I don't enjoy standing for any length of time. My legs get extremely fatiqued. Thanks to all for their help...perhaps it's time to give up shooting...although I love the smell of burned gun powder....Hank
  10. Mick and Scout454...it looks like I may try standing and see if it makes any difference. Sherwyn....thanks for the pictures. Your case feeder support is different than what's on any of my 1050's. I do like your arm rest. AlamoShooter...I made a similar item but I'm not too sure if I liked it. I took the light blue plastic box that Dillon dies come in, cut off the lid, and mounted the lower part to the top of the bullet bin. It raised the bullets to the same height as the brass in the 1050. All I had to do was pivot my wrist back and forth. Only problem, this setup really caused my wrist to cramp. Shred...I will look for BE's 1050 mod Thank you all....Hank
  11. Eric...I have changed chairs in addition to how I manage the bullets. I will take a closer look at the setup. You've hit the problem with my left hand cramping up. As for volume of bullets loaded, I'm embarrassed...perhaps 100 and I got to quit for a bit. Gary...I might try the old method with the akro bins again. I did like this original method with my wrist resting on the bar. I've been fighting this new way with Dillon's aluminum tray and not liking it at all. It seems like Dillon never intended it to be used on the 1050. I would have designed the setup a lot different. Off to the basement to take some measurements....Hank
  12. Gentlemen....Thanks again for the input. Looks like I'll be ordering some hammers and sears made from tool steel. Hank
  13. I presently have the blue aluminum tray on the 1050...but it requires moving your hand about 6 inches each time to place a bullet atop the casing. My hand gets kinda numb after awhile, and I need to stop and rest. Previously, I used the old plastic container which Dillon furnished with the press, but don't care for that too much. Has anyone come up with a better arrangement? I don't think I'm ready for the "KISS" system. I have a hard time walking and chewing gum at the same time. Thanks...Hank
  14. MIM is a process for fabricating a part, it has absolutely nothing to do with the final material hardness. That is determined by the type of steel and what (if any) hardening steps are done after firing the part. It is true that MIM is about 96% as dense as forged steel, but that is a small difference. The main problem with MIM is if the fabrication is poorly control, voids and weak spots are formed if there is an air bubble or a large particle which will not "fuse" with the rest of the powder. I have never heard that Kimbers 1911 trigger parts were only surface hardened. maybe, but I have never heard that. S+W revolver hammers and triggers are definitely surface hardened only, so the main body of the part is less prone to crack or shatter. Bountyhunter...thanks for the info. I was under the impression that Kimber parts were MIM and these parts left something to be desired. Hank
  15. oh....didn't realize you were serious about woodpecker lips. I imagined they were some sort of cheap parts. We've got a resident wookpecker that wakes us up every morning at daybreak. He raps on the chimney hood for our master bedroom....and it is loud| Have a good day...Hank
  16. Once again, thanks to all for the replies. Howard....what are woodpecker lips? and where do Kimber parts fall into the quality spectrum? Thanks....Hank
  17. Thanks for the quick replies. Coming from 2 experts, I quess I'll just buy new tool steel parts. Hank
  18. What happens when you stone(or recut) the hammer hooks and sear in a 1911 like a Kimber with MIM parts? You remove the hard surface...can you make this exposed surface hard once again? What happens if you heat up the part and quench it in cold water? I would hate to think I have to buy hammers and sears made from tool steel. Thanks....Hank
  19. We ocassionally get a mouse or two inside the house...still haven't figured out how they get in. Our 2 cats just watch them. I use the regular mouse traps with cheese or stickey paper to catch them. I was told recently to use "Oil of Pepermint" (purchased at a health food store) and saturate a piece of cloth or cotton and put it in an area where you don't want mice. The party that told me about this trick lives in the country and had mice problems before using oil of pepermint, now almost none.
  20. Does anyone have any information on the complete disassembly of this pistol? In many ways, it's very similar to a Glock. I've searched the internet, and come up with nothing. I need to know how to remove the firing pin safety plunger (it looks just like a Glock with the extractor being adjacent, but the spring tension is done differently). Any help would be appreciated....Thanks
  21. Thanks for all your help. I'll just keep the 10mm for shooting that caliber. This is not a cheap caliber to shoot....mainly because of the brass (having to buy it new). I've been spoiled with 9mm, 40, and 45 (range pickups). Really wanted a 40 single stack 1911, and I thought I could do both calibers with just a little tweaking. Who knows, I may learn to like this 10mm once I shoot it. Thanks once again...Hank
  22. Is there any reason why I can't play with my 10mm Delta Elite by using 40 S&W rounds? It would be a lot cheaper and easier. I'm not too worried about absolute accuracy. In the mean time, I'll be looking for a drop-in Colt barrel in 40. Thanks...Hank
  23. Could someone answer a question that has bothered me for some time now reqarding this subject? I was told never to drop the slide without it stripping off a bullet...this destroys a good trigger job. Guess the bullet allows some sort of a cushioning effect. When I practice, many times I load either 3 bullets or 5, and run the gun dry (slide is locked backed). It's easier for me to check to see what I've done, rather than to remove a partially loaded mag and rack out the bullet in the chamber. Seems that somewhere I was told that if the trigger is still back when the slide is released, it won't hurt the gun or the trigger job. Is this correct? Any comments would be appreciated....Hank
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