Sear Spring Installation

[DogmaDog]

OK, total newb question.  I removed the mainspring housing on a 1911 for the first time ever the other night, to replace it with a wilson mag chute.  Managed to get all the parts to go back on, and the gun seems to function just fine...

but there's this nagging doubt cause that leaf spring has all those processes sticking out, and where should they go??  Does my hammer feel slightly different when I cock it???  That sort of nagging doubt.

So the question is, is putting the sear spring back in your gun a no-brainer, or are there some tricky bits that I really need to pay attention to?

Are there any good online diagrams of how all those parts are supposed to fit together and interact on a 1911?

Thanks,

DogmaDog

[BSeevers]

If it works you are probably fine. Caution to make sure the spring on the left as you look at the back of the gun is on the sear. You can actually scoot it over while mainspring housing is in gun. All the flat springs are on the "outside" or you should see them with none under metal parts. Then put the mainspring housing in.

[Duane Thomas]

It's pretty simple. Reassembling the 1911's rear end 101:

Start by pulling the trigger all the way to the rear and hold it there. With the trigger held to the rear, lower the hammer all the way forward. Flip the hammer strut up out of the way so you can get at the guts of the gun. Now insert the sear spring. You'll have to start the top of the spring in first to clear the hammer, but don't lay it on the sear yet. Insert the bottom of the spring into the transverse slot in the frame. Drop the sear spring down on the sear. Be very careful it is on top of the sear and not under it. Then slip the mainspring housing in about halfway to capture the spring. Spring still on top of sear? Good. Flip the hammer strut down. I like to install the grip safety at this time. Push up on the mainspring housing and align the strut with the depression in the mainspring cap. If you've got the grip safety pinned with a piece of rubber, at this time you'd slip in that part. This is a lot of fun; I find a small flathead screwdriver an invaluable aid at this point to align the rubber where it needs to be. While holding the gun in your hand so the grip safety is depressed (if you've got the GS pinned you don't want the rubber to slip at this point), push up on the mainspring housing, align the hole in the bottom of the housing with the hole in the frame. Install the mainspring housing retaining pin. Cock the hammer. Install the thumb safety - this will entail depressing the little "tit" sticking of the plunger tube. The gun is now totally reassembled.

I like to drop a pencil down the barrel, point the muzzle upwards and pull the trigger after reassembly, just as a last check. If the pencil exits the barrel, you know the hammer, sear, firing pin, etc. are all working as they should.

Man, easier to do than type out!

(Edited by Duane Thomas at 3:35 pm on Aug. 3, 2002)

[cypher]

Duane,

Could you explain about the little piece of rubber that pins the grip safety.   I'm not familiar with that technique...   How does that work???

Thanks

Homero

[Storm]

Homero,

Check out the following thread on grip safety pinning.  It explains the technique Duane was referring to.

http://www.brianenos.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard...3&topic=108

[cypher]

Thanks...

Explains it perfectly.

Homero

[warpspeed]

nice touch with the pencil Duane.

I've been known to use a case with only a primer to do the same. I think that the pencil might be a bit less noisy.