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16# Mainspring?


Pat Miles

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i use 15 pounds ismi did not cut coils on a svi limited gun with a koenig hammer and titanium strut and cup.

svi non extended firing pin.

never had a problem igniting winchester and cci primers

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Does anybody offer a 16# mainspring for a 1911? I tried a 15# and it was a tad too light for reliable ignition in my limited gun.

Thanks

I am usually amused by the reasons given for the "need" of a light/er mainspring. It is important to "balance" the total springs cumulative weight for the performance and cycling characteristics of your gun.

Some shooters believe that a light trigger pull cannot be achieved with a heavy/er mainspring and opt for a light/er one at the possible expense of positive/reliable primer ignition. This is not true, as very, very light and reliable trigger pulls can be achieved with the standard of heavier spring weights.

Personnally I like to achieve a positive reliable ignition, with quicker lock time using the atandard or heavier mainsprings, and pursuing the balance from there. It is still a balancing act, but why start by screwing up ignition reliability?

There are some cases in extremely compensated/binding guns where it is necessary to install a lighter mainspring in order to be able to use a stronger recoil spring that will work better with assisting in chambering and going into battery, and thus achieve that critical balance. But in most "limited" guns shooting major power factor this is hardly the case.

So, indeed, may I ask: why a 16 lb spring?

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My looking for a 16# mainspring is not in search of the sub one pound trigger pull. Right now I have set the gun up with a very crisp, very consistent one and three quarter pull that makes the gun go bang every time I pull said trigger. Yes, I did the work. Yes, I have invested considerable time in learning how to do a trigger job correctly as well as a fair amount of bucks on on a jig, ground ceramic stones, etc. How do I tell when it's good enough for me? When I paint the hammer hooks and sear with dykem and dry fire the gun about twenty times, take it apart and see correct, consistent rub marks on both hammer hooks and both sides of the sear. Then it's time to fit the safety, disconnector, adjust the springs and then adjust the trigger itself for pre-travel and over-travel.

I asked so that I can spend four or five bucks and try one. Yeah, if it isn't 100% reliable to make the gun go bang I won't stay with it but theres only one way to find out and that's to try it. I remember when there was no such thing as a 17# mainspring. There is now and that's because somebody made one and found out that it worked. I'm one step ahead of you folks as I am wondering what effect it will have on recoil since there will be less resistance when the slide recoils backward. I am using an EGW square bottom firing pin stop in my gun. How will I find out what the effect a 16# spring will have? Spend $5.00, put the damn thing in and evaluate the results. It takes two minutes to put a 17# back in.

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