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Point Of Diminishing Return For Trigger Pull?


revchuck

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This is where I think guys like Randy Lee earn their money.

Randy's the best, but I'm not yet 100% sold on the idea of the super-light actions on IPSC guns.

The action on my 625-4 felt wonderful and did not seem to have sluggish trigger rebound until I was really pushing the gun hard on very close targets. (I can't shoot as fast as Jerry but I can crank 'em out pretty quick when I put my mind to it....) The double-clutch problem is completely gone now that I switched in a rebound spring with just a bit more oomph.

I said it before, and I'll say it again, for me the point of diminishing returns is around 5 pounds. It might even be more like 6.

I'm such a trigger yanker, for me less has been better with no discernable lower limit so far, particularly on those long, tight shots. Of course, I haven't been able to successfully run below 5#'s with my meager plumber skills anyway, so it's pretty much a moot point.

I may just break down and buy one of Randy's hammers, if it's not too hard to install.

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Mike,

I think I would have agreed only a few short weeks ago....After blowing three stages at Area 2 due to light primer hits (with a 5lb-8oz trigger pull) ....I felt the same way ! HOWEVER ! the engineer in me felt there was something missing so I sent my 25-2 to Randy to find the missing "something"Along with a side of Ti ;)

Results ?

4 pound 2 oz. Trigger pull S W E E T !!!! B) AND a snappy consistant trigger return

Range report.....to date 2,550 plus rounds 100 % functional.So really up to this point all this is mearly interesting..right? What happened during a recent practice session changed everything I used to believe.

In the past I have NEVER recorded a split time faster than .20 So I decided to see just how much better "The Darkside" really was/is. I shot 3 bill drills..Drill # 2 was a best. All A's with no split greater than .19 and the lowest being a .14 (o.K. except for the draw and reload which were slow) I know split times are not the whole story but after shooting two matches I have not had a short stroke yet ! This gun really helps make it look "easy" to rip through a close array....

Ahhh..... back to the old "grip it and rip it !"

IMHO when we approach the point of diminishing returns......"what" we do becomes much less important than "how"

Just my $.02

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Hi all,

Sorry I haven't been around the forum lately- trying to get everyone's revos done.

Here's my perspective on the light triggers:

The bulk of the guns I'm sending out are in the 4.25-4.5 range depending on reloading (primer seat) practices. For 45acp, seat primers to .010 below flush.

How well a light trigger pull will work for a person largely depends upon hand size and what type of nerve conduction process the person is born with or develops. I believe Vic Pickett, Jerry, Robbie and Todd Jarrett all have very fast "twitch" muscle control. This allows them to get on the trigger pull and off the trigger substantially faster than most of us. Remember that there are two primary muscle groups working in opposition. One group contracts to cause the trigger finger to press on the trigger and the other contracts to pull the finger away from the trigger to allow it to reset. The timing and overlap of the two group's contraction/relaxation phases are what typically gets us in trouble when we short stroke. Ever blow by a close target with an auto and attempt to pick up 2 quick shots only to double clutch on the trigger? It happens with SA auto's as often as it does with revos.

A light trigger (below 4.5 lbs) really makes you work on using the muscles in the forearm which straighten the finger. Relying on the rebound spring to kick your finger back won't work because the rate has been reduced in order to get the light trigger pull. If you are running my trigger work, it will take some time to retrain your finger. The lighter the pull, the more work you'll need to do.

Another thing that can affect the possibility of short stroking is the length of the rebound spring. If a spring is cut much beyond the factory spring length, the return force drops off markedly as the trigger returns. There can be a temporary stall as the hammer attempts to cam into the reset position AND as the cylinder stop is being reset. If the spring is cut too short the trigger may be held back from the complete reset just long enough to cause short stroking.

A quick point- make sure that your rebound slide does not contact the back edge of the trigger. There should be a slight gap where the trigger lever is visible. I have found on a couple of guns where the forged rebound slides were not properly fitted and the RBS was contacting the back of the trigger resulting in increased short strokes. The trigger must return fully forward. If you can wiggle your trigger fore and aft without it returning fully forward, this might be part of the problem.

The lighter trigger pulls really allow you to finesse the trigger much more readily than a heavier one. It just takes getting used to.

Just the ramblings of a twisted revolversmith. :D

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Another thing that can affect the possibility of short stroking is the length of the rebound spring. If a spring is cut much beyond the factory spring length, the return force drops off markedly as the trigger returns.

Interesting stuff, Randy. I've always just cut the factory rebound springs, I might have to rethink that one of these days and try a lighter power aftermarket spring.....

Man, I sure hope I'm one of those "fast twitchers" you're talking about!! :D

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