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JP LRP-07 .308 reloading process..which dies?


Nick Weidhaas

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Hello-  Wondering what your reloading process is for your JP LRP-07 in .308?  
 

I’m an experienced reloader but have not loaded .308 for a JP / gas gun.
 

JP recommends a small base die.  Are you using a FL or body small base die? If FL SB die, which small base die and how much does it bump the shoulder and what’s the neck tension (I realize this is brass dependent)?   
 

If only using a body SB die, are you using a neck bushing resizing die after the body die to set the neck tension?  Are you using a mandrel?  
 

Appreciate the help.  

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  • 3 months later...

Full process is as follows starting with Federal Brass 1x fired in Bolt gun:
Wet wash in Thumblers w/ Dawn + Lemishine 30 mins - 1 hr depending on fouling

Sun dry in Texas - 30 mins @ 100 F

Anneal in  AMP with AMP Mate

Lube w/ Dillon lube
On 650: 
Station 1 - FL Resize and Decap - Set this for properly sizing per mfg rec. 
Station 2 - Small Base with decap screwed way out or removed. Set for sizing the body, ignoring the neck / decap. 

Station 4 - Dillon Size/Trim die. This will undersize the neck. Must be corrected later. 

Tumble in walnut media with Brasso for ~4 hr 

RCBS Prep Station: 
Clear primer pocket with primer pocket wire brush
Chamfer + Deburr
Clear internal case with rotating brush

On 650: 
Station 1 - Mandrel + Decap but die set to not size, only align case and uniform neck. This sets neck tension after chamfer and deburring from trimmer. 
Station 2 - Prime
Station 4/5 - Powder and seat. I use a V3 auto trickler since I use a lot of Benchmark for 308.

If you run 335, TAC, CFE or other powders that meter easily you can get away with the Dillon powder throw. 

Is this overkill? Not for me. I only really practice 308 long range. I can do the majority of my "Heavy 3 Gun" bay work with a PCC, 22 LR or 223. Saves a lot of time and powder to open a box of 9. 

 

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