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jimbullet

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24 minutes ago, jimbullet said:

there is one and I don't trust him as his a self taught so not really qualified. 

IMO, there are definitely some excellent Gunsmiths that are  "self taught" and/or never received any formal/apprentice training; especially in the 1911/2011 gun world!

 

IIRC, you have a quality 2011 DVC that should be an excellent platform.  Before attempting any modifications to the fire control group, I would do a self assessment to determine if you have the mechanical ability to make changes; and a complete understanding of what to look for if something doesn't work as expected.  Most important is to also understand and be able to execute ALL 1911/2011 safety tests that are applicable to your platform!

 

As I'm sure your aware, YouTube has a vast assortment of qualified AND self-taught individuals showing detailed videos of what's involved in changing/upgrading parts to the platform.  Watch several; and then assess your ability/understanding to take on this highly complicated platform.

 

If your not 110% sure that you can complete the task correctly and safely, then as others have said allow a Qualified Gunsmith to get you the results you desire.

 

🤔👍

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1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:

IMO, there are definitely some excellent Gunsmiths that are  "self taught" and/or never received any formal/apprentice training; especially in the 1911/2011 gun world!

 

IIRC, you have a quality 2011 DVC that should be an excellent platform.  Before attempting any modifications to the fire control group, I would do a self assessment to determine if you have the mechanical ability to make changes; and a complete understanding of what to look for if something doesn't work as expected.  Most important is to also understand and be able to execute ALL 1911/2011 safety tests that are applicable to your platform!

 

As I'm sure your aware, YouTube has a vast assortment of qualified AND self-taught individuals showing detailed videos of what's involved in changing/upgrading parts to the platform.  Watch several; and then assess your ability/understanding to take on this highly complicated platform.

 

If your not 110% sure that you can complete the task correctly and safely, then as others have said allow a Qualified Gunsmith to get you the results you desire.

 

🤔👍

agree, and I dont have anything against those that are self taught. You are correct, some do become proficient being self taught but unfortunately the specific person in our area I am referring to is rather far from being an expert from what I have seen with a very few that he has worked on. 

 

I would likely go down the road of trying to install the flat trigger, pulling the tabs back, and might do some very minor polishing on the disco, will alter the flat trigger but not to the extent of shaving metal on the DVC itself. If I break the flat trigger, Im relaxed about it as I can drop in the original again and buy another flat trigger and definitely will not alter much the original parts of the DVC itself.

 

I will just have to muster up some courage again to disassemble the pistol and try to install one more time... 🙂 Thanks for all your help. It has given me a few things to consider and to look into.

 

Edited by jimbullet
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12 hours ago, jimbullet said:

agree, and I dont have anything against those that are self taught. You are correct, some do become proficient being self taught but unfortunately the specific person in our area I am referring to is rather far from being an expert from what I have seen with a very few that he has worked on. 

 

I would likely go down the road of trying to install the flat trigger, pulling the tabs back, and might do some very minor polishing on the disco, will alter the flat trigger but not to the extent of shaving metal on the DVC itself. If I break the flat trigger, Im relaxed about it as I can drop in the original again and buy another flat trigger and definitely will not alter much the original parts of the DVC itself.

 

I will just have to muster up some courage again to disassemble the pistol and try to install one more time... 🙂 Thanks for all your help. It has given me a few things to consider and to look into.

 

IMO, Assemble the pistol with OEM trigger to establish a base line of what STI had for pre-travel; and everything worked.  Then bend the tabs back to neutral on the Atlas and reassemble the entire pistol again.  Use the pre-travel test by Brazos that I referenced above, then see EXACTLY how much additional travel (if any) you'll need.  This will tell you if modding the disco will be enough.  

 

Good luck with your adventure; and remember there are other flat triggers available for the STI that may produce the results you desire without modifying the OEM parts!  

 

YOU may like one of these specifically listed for the STI/Staccato grip:

 

https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/staccato-grip/

 

Another option that may interest you:

 

https://fusionfirearms.com/ultra-match-grade-2011-triggers-all-colors-designs

 

👍👍

Edited by HOGRIDER
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  • 1 month later...

One facet of a safe trigger job that isn’t discussed much is the sear-disconnector interface.  If the disco paddle isn’t the right dimensions and/or the sear legs aren’t, you can get doubles, triples, quadruples or even full auto, which might not exhibit itself until you do fast trigger presses.  The connect-disconnect cycle has to happen just right and even some guys who claim gunsmith status don’t understand it that well.

 

The dimensions have to be tailored to the gun due to variances in things like the gap between the slide’s disconnector track and the frame top where the disco sticks out, and it’s the competent gunsmiths who know how to do that.  If you understand it and don’t claim to be a gunsmith, you have pretty advanced 1911 knowledge for a non-smith.

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1 hour ago, GunBugBit said:

One facet of a safe trigger job that isn’t discussed much is the sear-disconnector interface.  If the disco paddle isn’t the right dimensions and/or the sear legs aren’t, you can get doubles, triples, quadruples or even full auto, which might not exhibit itself until you do fast trigger presses.  The connect-disconnect cycle has to happen just right and even some guys who claim gunsmith status don’t understand it that well.

 

The dimensions have to be tailored to the gun due to variances in things like the gap between the slide’s disconnector track and the frame top where the disco sticks out, and it’s the competent gunsmiths who know how to do that.  If you understand it and don’t claim to be a gunsmith, you have pretty advanced 1911 knowledge for a non-smith.

Good point that many don't take into consideration.  And Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual Vol.2 mentions the disconnector over 100 times!  IMO, a highly important part that also makes a great "connector".......  ;)

 

For those that want further understanding from some of the experts in the platform, this thread is an excellent read:

 

https://www.1911forum.com/threads/disconnector-test.545601/

 

💡👍

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Yes that’s a good thread.  Kuhnhausen doesn’t cover the disconnector much in Vol 1, and skips it in that book’s table of contents.  He does say to have a “senior gunsmith” check it, if I remember correctly.  Super critical part, very much at the heart of the 1911’s function, and hard to observe what it does.  One can get an idea with the grip safety off.

Edited by GunBugBit
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4 minutes ago, GunBugBit said:

Yes that’s a good thread.  Kuhnhausen doesn’t cover the disconnector much in Vol 1, and skips it in that book’s table of contents.  He does say to have a “senior gunsmith” check it, if I remember correctly.  Super critical part, very much at the heart of the 1911’s function, and hard to observe what it does.  One can get an idea with the grip safety off.

Yea, taking the grip safety out definitely gives us a "window" to so much of the 1911/2011 fire control group.  One of my first steps when doing any inspection and/or trouble-shooting!

 

👍

 

 

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