AustinMike Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Hey, gang. I just got a 625 Model of 1989 in that I bought in an auction. The thing is clean as a whistle as in near perfect condition on the finish, except for a place on the barrel where some idiot wrote "ACP" at some point and it scratched through the finish. It's only visible when the light hits it right, so no big deal. Other than that, it looks like this gun has barely been shot. As cheap as the gun was, if that's the only thing wrong with it, I'm doing good. I shot 100 rounds today and it's straight as an arrow. Anyway, I've got two concerns. 1) There is a rattle in the gun somewhere in the action area. It's produced by shaking the gun up and down (vertically), but not side to side. Functionality doesn't seem to be affected. Lockup is tight, no play to speak of in the cylinder. I ran it through the revolver checkout at the top of this forum (nice writeup!) The rattle can be heard in any state (hammer back, hammer down, full lockup.) It is inside the gun and is not coming from the cylinder or cylinder release. Is this normal? 2) I had a couple instances of the cylinder binding. I've got a couple theories. These are my reloads, so it could have been a couple shallow primer seats. The other thing it could have been is that *I think* these instances were only with some cast bullets (I tried some plated too.) I'm wondering if maybe some bullet lube or lead around the cases may have prevented proper head spacing. I was using brand new moon clips. Sound likely? Thanks for the help. This looks like it's going to be a fun gun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Very nice find! I had exactly the same two problems with my new gun (same gun I think... Is yours a 625-3?). The rattle appeared to be a "trigger stop" consisting of a little rod placed inside the spring channel of the rebound slide. I took it out and the rattle went away. The cylinder binding problem went away after intensive use Happy shooting with your new precious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinMike Posted June 18, 2005 Author Share Posted June 18, 2005 Very nice find! I had exactly the same two problems with my new gun (same gun I think... Is yours a 625-3?). The rattle appeared to be a "trigger stop" consisting of a little rod placed inside the spring channel of the rebound slide. I took it out and the rattle went away. The cylinder binding problem went away after intensive use Happy shooting with your new precious <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yep, this is a 625-3. Picked it up online for $430 and it looks like it's rarely been shot. The cylinder face had virtually no powder scoring. Can't believe how clean it is for its age! I was in the market for a 625 and jumped at the chance to grab an older gun with the firing pin on the hammer and no silly built-in lock! Good used revolvers are hard to find at the gun shows around here and I never see them this cheap. Any tips or tricks to share? I'll probably get a trigger job done on it and maybe get the chambers chamfered. Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Getting an old gun with the non-MIM parts, no lock and the hammer mounted FP is a great move. If you want to use it for USPSA I suggest getting the chambers chamfered (you only need to break the edges really). You can change the springs to some kind of competition type (Miculek, Wilson, Wolff etc.) which produces a better trigger pull, but the factory springs are good enough. But the best tip I can give you is to go out and train with it, on the range or at home dryfiring. I would keep the gun the way it is for now and just see what you want to change as you work with it. The cool thing about revolvers is that there is not that much to change. The only things I have changed is chamfering, narrowing the front sight and changing the grip and springs. $30 worth of tuning If you're reloading, Federal primers are the way to go. They're the softest primers, giving you the most reliable ignition with light revolver triggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinMike Posted June 18, 2005 Author Share Posted June 18, 2005 If you're reloading, Federal primers are the way to go. They're the softest primers, giving you the most reliable ignition with light revolver triggers. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yep, I started using Federal exclusively last year. I've been very happy with them. I've got another gun that has a light strike and Federal works flawlessly. I'm thinking the chamfering would be a good thing. I'm no expert after just 100 rounds, but getting the moon clips in there fast just wasn't happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaels Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Nice looking 625....I really like the full under lug barrel model like yours buy some more moonclips, you can never have enough moons... Cylinder release could be upgraded unless you've already got a size 16 thumb, I think there is an extra long hammer attached firing pin (I forgot who makes it) for when you get adjusting the strain screw down to almost zero lbs...and sights, you happy with those or do you want fiber optics? then you can spend some more money and send it off to Randy Lee for action work...it's just like a 1911, there's lots of things to do to it...I didn't even get into the holster(s) and moon holders, do you want to stay with IPSC or IDPA? Yup, it's a money sucker if you let it, but hey, you've got one of the best made revolvers in the world, now get back in there and reload some more ammo and get shooting, (you do reload right? more money to Dillon....) Mine is a little newer and it made rattle noises for a while, then one day it stopped doing it. Couldn't find anything wrong or loose inside. Now my 627 is another story, sounds like the innards are not attached, makes more noise than a 1911 going into battery. michaels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiG Lady Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 Whatta great find! (Boy, doesn't it feel good when stuff like that happens?!) I know the feeling. Have fun with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 Im Pretty sure what you are hearing is the "hammer block" if that model has one. Its a rod like thing that prevents the gun from firing if its dropped by accident when the gun is cocked in "single action". It basically "floats" inside the rightside plate cover. If you pull the hammer back you can see what looks like a Paddle lookin thing just below where the firing pin would go through the frame. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinMike Posted June 19, 2005 Author Share Posted June 19, 2005 you happy with those or do you want fiber optics? Those fiber optic sights are sweet. That's a good possibility. Maybe some different grips. I'm not crazy about finger grooves. I didn't even get into the holster(s) and moon holders, do you want to stay with IPSC or IDPA? I'd like to shoot IPSC and Steel matches with this gun. I bought a few moon holders and what clips my dealer had in stock (about 24 to start with.) (you do reload right? more money to Dillon....) Oh, yeah. Dillon RL550B! Now my 627 is another story, sounds like the innards are not attached, makes more noise than a 1911 going into battery. It's pretty noisy, kinda like a baby rattle. Seems to shoot fine though. If you pull the hammer back you can see what looks like a Paddle lookin thing just below where the firing pin would go through the frame. Looks like that's what it is. There's some sort of little metal thingy floating under the firing pin hole. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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