Dpms High Rider Upper

[ryan45kim]

I have a question about DPMS high rider uppers, they look like the ticket for three gun (no risers plus rings or using the mounts like b-square sells) but there is no bump (the protrusion that kicks the brass forward). Is there a problem with shooting it from the left shoulder (I shoot some matches that require weak shoulder shooting)? I know that Benny uses them so can they be shot from the left shoulder?

[MikeFoley]

There are many of us using DPMS recievers with no brass deflector. The only problem with these I have seen is if you forend mount another sighting device (read open class dot, or JP short range sight) and tilt the gun, the brass is now coming at you instead of to your right. Tewlman has made brass deflectors for these recievers that you could self install if you can drill and tap a hole in the aluminum, or have it done. You can contact him on this forum. There is a picture of his personal gun with the modification in the thread where evereyone is posting pics of their 3Gun gear.

[wsimpso1]

An approach used by some folks in High Power is to "house break" your rifle so that the empties get tossed at about 2 o'clock. It is a process of tuning the ejector, and I have done it on a bunch of rifles (M-1's as well as AR15's). It is nice not just for lefties, but for those of us that reload our cases - it prevents many dings that shorten case life and it allows us to recover more cases because they neither go so far nor are scattered so widely.

The AR15 (and most battle rifles) has way more ejector power than is normally needed, mostly because they were concerned about maintaining reliability when dirty, fouled, etc. Since the guns for our game are kept cleaner than they would be in battle, we can tune things a little without any loss of reliability. My serious tactical rifle does have standard springs in it...

I housebreak my target guns by making sure that the rifle is broken in and working correctly. Tuning the ejector of a rifle that is still rough and scratchy is wasting time. Drop the ejector and remove a coil from the ejector spring. I use a parting wheel on a Dremel tool, and break the edges and corners on the spring while I have it out. Dykes and a stone work too. I also polish the working face of the ejector, shortening it very little, and break any sharp corners on the ejector and tunnel in the bolt while I am at it. This cuts down on brass shavings fouling the extractor and ejector. We are just taking the sharp hooks off. Reassemble and test fire. The stock ejector throws cases up and out at 4 or 5 o'clock, while this should swing the ejection to 3 o'clock or further forward. If removing one coil still tosses them aft, take another coil and test again. Oh, it never hurts to have some more ejector springs in case you take off too much on the first spring.

And if the idea of messing with the ejector bothers you, by all means, just mount a deflector. Do us a favor - report back on whatever you end up doing so we can learn... Good Luck.

Billski

[cking]

You have to consider what is you main sight objective, open, tactical, limited. Lots of people are going in the tactical direction, no more than 4 power and trying to get a large field of view, and good eye relief. The problem with any scope if find the sweet spot fast from many positions. i.e. the cheek weld. Now if you have no problem with front site in your field of view and the high cheek weld required. Then the hi-ris and extend platform tops are OK. I myself find I need/like my optics mounted lower. So I shave the front sight, or put a new rail gas block on it. Then if I decide to shoot limited, off comes optics and on goes the handle and front sight. They never zero so i have to do a little sighting in.

My latest creation will bring the .750 diameter barrel all the way to muzzle on a 18 barrel, with a shaved alumium gas block coverd by a full length float tube. Will use a GG&G extended top rail to mount a 1-4X20 scope forward. I use the nose to charge hand position.

Now if I want limited I will mount a handle and put a regular front sight right at the muzzle to increased sight radius and still be limited legal. Also keeping the barrel diameter down to .750 so it won't be nose heavy.

I also installed a Merit adjustable aperture disc in a factory handle peep sight so I can have a large aperture for hosing and then close it down from distance shots. Old eyes need all the help they can get to keep the front sight sharp.

Well thats IMHO

[wsimpso1]

I recently built a Tactical (Scope) upper with a regular flat top reciever and a GG&G Scout rail, mid hieght rings and a 1.5-5x scope. The reason for a plain flat top and then the extended half inch riser rail is several:

The scopes with big field of view have to ride pretty well forward, and the front ring would be out in space not on the reciever, so an extension forward was needed;

I get a pretty good cheek weld at the same 2.6 inches above bore that the issue sisghts give, so that hieght is what I was working towards;

Folding iron sights can be installed behind the Scout Rib and on the gas block as emergency sights should the glass be out of action.

The extended high rail version could have worked except that they will not take the emergency sights.

It does make a rifle that is a gas to shoot.

Billski

[ryan45kim]

I already have an ar-15 setup for three gun, so this is not a start up project.

I’m running an 18’’ free floated barrel, Simmons 1.5-5x20 pro diamond scope, JP trigger ect.

I do not shoot nose to charging handle so I do not have to stick my scope out past the receiver, that being said the DPMS upper should be perfect for me except for the fact that there is no brass deflector. I shoot some matches that require shooting strong side / weak side (you must use both shoulders), and I’m afraid that the brass will shoot right into my face when shooting left shoulder.

So where does the DPMS receiver eject the brass to.

Ps I shoot tactical and limited, sorry no open.