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Getting Ready To Place Order; Couple Q's?


boo radley

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While I'm still debating the 550B vs. Sq.Deal issue, I am convinced that I can no longer afford to shoot .45acp w/out reloading, so one way or the other, I'm placing an order with Brian, today.

A couple questions (I did 'search'):

Thinking ahead, I ordered a case gauge for .45acp from Midway, when I bought some magazines....Do I still need calipers immediately? Would I be able to adjust either the 550B or the SD to the right specs using the gauge?

What if I don't get a primer flip tray? Is this just a matter of flipping them the right side up, and using tweezers (or my fingers?) on the desktop?

Are the extra primer tubes recommended to save time? Or do they become damaged?

My bench is a used surplus office table I bought at a warehouse. The top is particle board covered with some kind of wood-grain formica. Would this work, if I bought a strong mount? If I covered it with 5/8" plywood, would I then not *need* a strong mount?

In terms of cleaning -- how much mess can I expect with a progressive reloading operation? I plan on setting this up in my upstairs office (which is carpeted), and have assured my wife that it won't be a bit dangerous or messy. I'd better get some facts. :) Shop vac work ok? Do I need something on the carpet?

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OK, the decision on a 550 or a SBD is simple: if you are going to load three or more handgun calibers, or any handgun aliber and a rifle, buy the 550. If you are going to load one or two calibers, then buy an SBD for each.

Calipers are good. Calipers don't cost much. You can "get by" without them, but life is so much easier you won't regret the moeny spent.

I loaded a long time without a flip tray. I simply dumped some primers in my left hand, and picked each one up and placed it into the primer feed tube. (What can I say? I was young, cheap and stupid.) The day I got a flip tray and feed tubes was like the clouds opened and sunlight poured in.

By all means reinforce the tabletop. The strong mount is for height adjustment and bolting on things like bulle trays. Without plywood you'll quickly bust up particle board.

Progressives are messy. Reloading is messy. The 550 in particular likes to spit deprimed primers onto the floor. Get a dedicated vacuum, and vacuum each and every time you finish reloading.

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A couple questions (I did 'search'):

Thinking ahead, I ordered a case gauge for .45acp from Midway, when I bought some magazines....Do I still need calipers immediately? Would I be able to adjust either the 550B or the SD to the right specs using the gauge?

Case gauge is a good idea. I got some right after my very first pin shoot when my previously 100% BHP jammed up tight. Now every round going to a competition must pass the gauge.

You don't need calipers right away but they are nice to have. You can use a commercial round from a box of ammo known to work reliably in your gun to do all the critical seating and crimping adjustments.

What if I don't get a primer flip tray? Is this just a matter of flipping them the right side up, and using tweezers (or my fingers?) on the desktop?

Get the flip tray.

Are the extra primer tubes recommended to save time? Or do they become damaged?

It's a time saver. You can take a break from reloading, fill 4 or 5 tubes and then just crank when your break is over.

My bench is a used surplus office table I bought at a warehouse. The top is particle board covered with some kind of wood-grain formica. Would this work, if I bought a strong mount? If I covered it with 5/8" plywood, would I then not *need* a strong mount?

Stability is super important when using a progressive press. The strong mount has a very favorable benefit/cost ratio. Get one.

In terms of cleaning -- how much mess can I expect with a progressive reloading operation? I plan on setting this up in my upstairs office (which is carpeted), and have assured my wife that it won't be a bit dangerous or messy. I'd better get some facts. :) Shop vac work ok? Do I need something on the carpet?

Cover the carpet with something easily cleaned like the plastic used under desk chairs. You will eventually spill or drop something. It will be better if what you spill or drop can be easily recovered and does not get down in the carpet.

Finally: I bought an SDB when I discovered I couldn't keep up with 2 handgunners using my trusty Lyman 310 tool. A couple or 3 years later, my bride gave me a 650 for Christmas. If doing it over I'd start with the 650.

It's faster and easier. I still use the SDB, though. Its only real drawback is that there are hard limits to the experimentation you can do, imposed by the unique dies which it uses.

Cheers,

Norm

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Boo,

Thinking ahead, I ordered a case gauge for .45acp from Midway, when I bought some magazines....Do I still need calipers immediately? Would I be able to adjust either the 550B or the SD to the right specs using the gauge?

The case gage will tell you if the round is within specs diameter-wise, if it would feed in the chamber. You will still need the calipers to determine your case overall length.

What if I don't get a primer flip tray? Is this just a matter of flipping them the right side up, and using tweezers (or my fingers?) on the desktop?

Flipping the primers right-side-up for loading into the pick-up tubes is a two step operation: From the sleeve to the flip tray, close the flip tray and flip it again. I believe doing it any other way would be way too time consuming. You can get a flip tray from Midway for $2.99 (item no. 851549). Save yourself the trouble.

Are the extra primer tubes recommended to save time? Or do they become damaged?

Extra pick up tubes are nice to have because you load them all up and then don't have to break your "press time" to load some more. I have 10 loaded for every session but 5 would be a good number.

My bench is a used surplus office table I bought at a warehouse. The top is particle board covered with some kind of wood-grain formica. Would this work, if I bought a strong mount? If I covered it with 5/8" plywood, would I then not *need* a strong mount?

I wouldn't trust particle board, especially if it's used and you don't know how old it is. I would reinforce it with at least 1/2 in. plywood, strong mounts or not. The strong mounts would make your machine be more stable and prolong the life of your bench's surface by spreading the force over a greater surface area. They will also raise your machine elevation by at least 6.5 inches. You can always get them later.

In terms of cleaning -- how much mess can I expect with a progressive reloading operation? I plan on setting this up in my upstairs office (which is carpeted), and have assured my wife that it won't be a bit dangerous or messy. I'd better get some facts.  :)   Shop vac work ok? Do I need something on the carpet?

My setup is in my garage but there are some indoor reloaders here that can tell you what you need to setup in your selected location.

Hope this helps!

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My bench is a used surplus office table I bought at a warehouse. The top is particle board covered with some kind of wood-grain formica. Would this work, if I bought a strong mount? If I covered it with 5/8" plywood, would I then not *need* a strong mount?

The previous owner of my house left a cheap workbench in the basement. It was flimsy to say the least. I bought 12 feet of 2x12 and cut it in half and screwed it to the top of the bench. It's now heavy and strong. Reinforce your bench as best as possible. It will save you a lot of hassel in the future. Get a strong mount.

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Boo,

Nemo pretty much nailed it.

I'd say on the calipers, buy a import digital one. I've seen them on eBay for $27.00. Perfect for reloading.

Flip tray is a yes. Atleast 5 primer tubes. And I like as heavy/rigid/solid bench as I can get to load on.

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Yes on the flip tray. A case gauge is not absolutely necessary and can be error prone if its not exactly the same diameter (or slightly smaller) as your chamber. You already own a case gauge anyhow - your barrel :)

Strong mount spreads the forces out over a greater area of the table, as well as the other points of moving the press a little higher and adding accessory attacment points. I agree with the others - add a piece of 3/4" plywood (or two, even) at least an inch or two larger than the press foot print to the table - maybe one on top and one on the bottom of the table. Use wide washers under the table to help spread the force out underneath. Also - anchor the table to the studs in the wall for greater stability.

Definitely extra primer tubes.

One problem can result re: the cleaning aspect. If you drop live primers on the floor, and a reasonable quantity of powder during inevitable minor spills, you *could* have a fire hazard within your vaccum, *if* a primer went off in close enough proximity to the powder to light it up. Very unlikely. However, live primers can be set off by a standard vaccum, so.... :) I recommend cleaning the area yourself. A dedicated shop vac is not a bad idea at all. Patrick's suggestion to keep it clean frequently (and empty the vac each time, too!) is probably a good one for any situation.

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Yes on flip tray, though you don't need the Dillon one made of depleted uranium or whatever.

Particleboard table is kinda sketchy. I'd reinforce with the plywood. My bench is a power tool stand from home depot, with a top about 18" by 24" out of plywood, to which I bolted my 550.

Don't skimp on the time-saving accessories. Digital electronic scale and calipers. You'll be glad in the long run that you spent the extra cash.

I get by with 5 primer tubes, cuz 500 is about as many rounds as I can load in a sitting without needing to get away from reloading.

As for 550 vs. SDB, I chose the 550 and I'm very happy with it. I tried the SDB and thought it was easy to use and it turned out ammo just fine. The ball handle is not as comfy as the roller handle I got for the 550. If you ever decided to reload more calibers, or rifles, you wouldn't want the SDB, but you can sell a used SDB for most of what you paid for it when you get to that point.

As far as mess, it won't get everywhere, but it is there. A quick vacuum after a reloading session should handle it. Spent primers and powder residue are most of it, then some fresh powder, and an occasional live primer will wind up on the floor. I also get some tumbling media spilled around.

Probably not too much help. Good luck, though.

DogmaDog

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Wow -- I appreciate the advice. I just got off the phone with Johnny? Joni? and ordered the SDB in .45acp from Brian, as well as a copy of his book.

Since I need some stuff from Midway, I'll probably pick up that primer flip tray from them (thx Nemo), and look for a used micrometer or calipers, and concentrate my immediate efforts on setting up a sturdy bench in my office -- best when my wife isn't around, since she's still a little sour about holes in the living room hardwood floors from a home cabling project.

Back and forth on the 550 vs SDB. I really do see the wisdom of the former, but I also don't see ever loading rifle ammo in volume, or moving from .45acp. Maybe I'll pick up a single-stage press if I get seduced by...dunno, shooting metallic silhouette, or something, for for now, I just want to crank out some ammo, and stop the bleeding.

Besides -- based what I've seen on eBay, I can let the machine rust, lose some parts, sell is "as-is, no returns", and ask for more than I paid(!).

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Skip the micrometer and just get a digital caliper. Midway has a Frakfort Arsenal model that's cheap. Midway is offline for upgrades right now, I'll look for a link later. I bought a micrometer and used it twice. Not to mention they are hard to read if you don't get the expensive digital ones.

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