Overtravel PSA

[d_striker]

I'm sure most of you CZ veterans already know this but this is for all of the new CZ owners. If you don't have enough overtravel set, you will round off the top edges of your hammer hooks. It only took 3k rounds for me to do it on my Shadow. The design of the ejector being built into the sear cage makes it necessary to have enough over travel.

How much overtravel should you have? An EAA vet told me that he typically would set it to where the hammer dropped and then backed out the screw 1/2 a turn.

I've backed out the screw all the way on both Shadows just to be safe. It's not like my CZC Shadow Targets have much over travel to begin with. I'm just dumb and like to chase the extreme ends of performance.

So there you have it. I just potentially saved you from being dumb like me and having to buy a new hammer and sear.

Edited July 18, 2015 by d_striker

[kneelingatlas]

A better way to ensure you won't damage the hooks or the sear is to hold the trigger to the rear and thumb the hammer back and forth; if you can feel the hooks and sear touching, back out the screw.

[d_striker]

A better way to ensure you won't damage the hooks or the sear is to hold the trigger to the rear and thumb the hammer back and forth; if you can feel the hooks and sear touching, back out the screw.

That's exactly how I originally set it. It wasn't enough with brass hitting the ejector/sear cage in live fire.

Edited July 18, 2015 by d_striker

[leas327]

A better way to ensure you won't damage the hooks or the sear is to hold the trigger to the rear and thumb the hammer back and forth; if you can feel the hooks and sear touching, back out the screw.

That's exactly how I originally set it. It wasn't enough with brass hitting the ejector/sear cage in live fire.

Take the mainspring out and use thumb pressure to push the hammer. It gives you a better feel of what's going on. Back out until you don't feel any drag and give another half turn for clearance.

I have done a couple guns that have at least 10,000 rounds on them and the hooks and triggers are still great.

[d_striker]

A better way to ensure you won't damage the hooks or the sear is to hold the trigger to the rear and thumb the hammer back and forth; if you can feel the hooks and sear touching, back out the screw.

That's exactly how I originally set it. It wasn't enough with brass hitting the ejector/sear cage in live fire.

Take the mainspring out and use thumb pressure to push the hammer. It gives you a better feel of what's going on. Back out until you don't feel any drag and give another half turn for clearance.

I have done a couple guns that have at least 10,000 rounds on them and the hooks and triggers are still great.

That extra 1/2 turn is what is needed.

[Quack]

Don't forget to use loctite to prevent the screw from moving.