Resistance when trigger is resetting

[itzjere]

So I took my SP01 apart to do some polishing and it came out great. However, during re-assembly, I noticed that as the trigger resets, there is a lot of resistance and a metal on metal squeeze. At first, I thought I installed my TRS incorrectly and re-did it several times and it looks great. When I release and/or remove the screw holding the magazine release and trigger bar support spring, the resistance and sound goes away.. as I continue to tighten the screw, the resistance and noise returns. Sometimes even need to push the trigger forward to reset

Could it be the trigger support spring adding the resistance to the underside of the trigger bar? Or maybe the end of the trigger bar is rubbing against the frame? I'm a bit puzzled and new to this platform..

Edited July 3, 2015 by itzjere

[itzjere]

I believe I have isolated where the metal sqeeking is coming from. With the slide off, I can see the trigger bar support spring, on the right side is not sliding in the 'groove' on the underside of the trigger bar.. if I use a pick and pop it back in, the trigger is much smoother and the noise goes away.. however, it will eventually pop out from the groove. Any suggestions on keeping the support spring in the groove?

[itzjere]

So it seems like I might be overtightening the screw for the support spring and mag release? I am turning it til it doesn't turn anymore, but if I back it off a bit, all my issues go away.. Can anyone confirm for me how 'tight' this screw needs to be?

[Czman]

The screw needs to be very tight. You may need to either bend the spring or replace it.

[GJGary]

The trigger bar spring is staked from the factory. I put mine in tight and bend the spring to get the desired effect, trial and error. I have used new springs that haven't gone through the staked removal process and they do go in with less trial and error.

Edited July 3, 2015 by GJGary

[CZinSC]

You don't not need to overtighten that screw, you need to loctite. As Gary said, it's staked from the factory. Once you remove it, you'll need to either restake or loctite. Loctite is easier. Blue loctite.

You want to put loctite on the screw, then put it in. Tighten it until that spring starts to pull away from the frame. When it does, back out the screw a half turn or until it stops pulling away from the frame. Leave the gun to let the loctite set. I suggest overnight.

I did that many times when owning an SP01 and NEVER had an issue with the screw backing out.

Also, make sure you have a gunsmith screwdriver blade. That would be one where the blade is square, not a wedge like most screwdrivers. You can pick one up cheap at Walmart. If you use a regular blade, the chances of buggering up that screw are very good once its loctited.

[schmeky]

I hesitate to chime in. The #34 spring is the issue as others have stated. However, I have learned the hard way, Loctite on the #35 screw may not be the best method. If the head of the screw ever "wallows" out, and it does, and has, and you have machine the head off the screw, if there is no Loctite, the remaining post will screw out with no issue.

But, if you run into this scenario, and the threads are loctited, it's going to take some precision, and very expensive machining to get the post out. Just sayin'. Ask me how I know.

[itzjere]

Thank you everyone that has chimed in.

I spoke to CGW as well since I had to add an extra part to my order, and they suggested what many have mentioned - loctite and stake. Turn the screw down until the spring begins to bind. Back it off a little, and make sure it is flush with the frame so that it doesn't interfere. I currently have the screw in a good position where it is not interfering (that I know easy tell at least based on feel of the trigger and sound) and functions properly.