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650 primer issue with .308


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I'm a new reloader. I think I have .223 going well. Just started on some .308. I have a bunch of Black Hills Arms once fired brass in great condition. Problem is it does not want to seat primers very well. (WLR primers). I loaded some WCC brass with hardly any issues but the BHA brass only works soso at best. I get a lot of high primers and flat primers.

Question is would switching to a harder primer help? Say CCI 250?

Thanks in advance.

Mike

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Perhaps the bass has crimped primer pockets?

The main reason for trouble seating in the 650 is crimped primers, the only other problem I have ever had was the shell guide (Silver tab that pushes the case at the primer stage) spring gets messed up or the screw holding it down loosens up.

My guess if the WCC is loading fine, The BHA is crimped or even just a tighter primer pocket. Get a SWAG or primer pocket reamer.

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The cases are not crimped. I separated all the crimped ones, easy to tell with BHA. Green dye vs red on the primers. I'll check the shell guide, but I did adjust it when changing calibers and seemed fine. Plus it works with the WCC cases.

Could be a tighter primer pocket I guess, but from what I have researched BHA uses Winchester cases??

So a harder primer is not the answer??

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No, Primers are not harder to allow the reloader to press it in harder.... You are having a problem with the Brass. Do you have a primer pocket uniform tool? they are cheap and easy to use. I reload Hornady Match and Federal GMM brass. I have rarely experienced some pockets being tighter than the majority but even with these high quality brass it happens. The Primer pocket Die does not always indicate a crimp or tight pocket, that is usually the primer sealer which can be because of the mfgr used.

I often have problems reloading .223/ 5.56 because when using different mfgr brass, the primer pockets very greatly. Some are not crimped but are really tight and need to be trimmed with a reamer/uniform tool.

Edited by ricardo28
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Tendencys I see are people (INEXPERIENCED?) using the pocket reamers (and counter sink drill bit's) to the point of destroying the piece of brass by over doing it. They ream it out so far that sometimes I see bairly 1/2 of the pocket left. Needless to say, that brass goes into the scrap bit...with a bit of cussing...

imho, using a swager is faster and more consistent.

jj

Edited by RiggerJJ
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Is the Dillon super swage worth the extra cost over a pocket reamer? I think I'll make good use of one as I have probably 1500 cases to do... From what I have read it is faster and easier?

Thanks

Mike

1500 cases is more than I like to do with any method other than a 1050, in one sitting.

If just do smaller batches there are lots of methods that work. From reaming to swaging, there is no really "right" answer for everyone and every situation.

And lots of choices.

IMG_20150120_102721_411-1_zps5ce96744.jp

Edited by jmorris
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Tendencys I see are people (INEXPERIENCED?) using the pocket reamers (and counter sink drill bit's) to the point of destroying the piece of brass by over doing it. They ream it out so far that sometimes I see bairly 1/2 of the pocket left. Needless to say, that brass goes into the scrap bit...with a bit of cussing...

imho, using a swager is faster and more consistent.

jj

I agree with the above but I myself do not ream crimped brass or any other brass to the point I have big piles of brass. IMO, if the reamer can not push into the pocket before twisting I do not ream it. I ream because I do not yet have a swager but will be getting one soon. I also get a ton of free range brass so i am not worried about brass lasting 7+ reloads.

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