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Clark Carbon Fiber Handguard - Don't glue it, screw it.


Flatland Shooter

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I did that. And I used automotive push pins to secure it in place. Works well. Just be aware that if you try and move that to a different gun, the barrel nut may end up in a different position, so your nicely placed pins are now in different positions.

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The barrel nut is kinda thin (in my opinion) and being aluminium I was worried about getting enough threads in the hole for it to be durable. When I did a couple of these back in the day I drilled the barrel nut and then glued some Tnuts into the barrel nut (on the back side) instead of tapping the barrel nut.

I used something like:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-10-32-tpi-x-9-32-in-x-3-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Round-Base-Brad-Hole-Tee-Nut-12-Pack-4142/204785964/

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I did that. And I used automotive push pins to secure it in place. Works well. Just be aware that if you try and move that to a different gun, the barrel nut may end up in a different position, so your nicely placed pins are now in different positions.

Are those automotive push pins made of plastic? Did you drill the holes before installing the barrel nut or after?

Thanks.

Bill

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The barrel nut is kinda thin (in my opinion) and being aluminium I was worried about getting enough threads in the hole for it to be durable. When I did a couple of these back in the day I drilled the barrel nut and then glued some Tnuts into the barrel nut (on the back side) instead of tapping the barrel nut.

I used something like:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-10-32-tpi-x-9-32-in-x-3-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Round-Base-Brad-Hole-Tee-Nut-12-Pack-4142/204785964/

Did you drill the holes with the barrel nut installed? Just wondered if there is enough clearance for the nuts once the barrel is in the way.

Thanks.

Bill

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I tried using nuts but couldn't fine a good glue that would hold.

I used jb weld... I degreased and scuffed the surfaces. Part of my thinking at the time for putting the t nuts on the inside of the barrel nut was that it sandwiched the tube and the barrel nut together. In that case the glue didn't have much to do other than keep the t nut from spinning while you tightened it together. The holes in the barrel nut and the float tube were a really close fit to prevent things from trying to slide around. Also I used some thin washers on the outside between the float tube and the screw head to keep the screw off the carbon.

Be super careful cutting the carbon (you don't want to breath that stuff). I did the cutting with the tube under water with a really sharp bit (an expert on composites could tell you the right way to do this I am sure). I used some clear nail polish on the holes to keep them from raveling.

I wouldn't do this today by the way. The AP custom tube is a better version of this. (Or the carbon arms tube). At the time those didn't exist.

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The barrel nut is kinda thin (in my opinion) and being aluminium I was worried about getting enough thread in the hole for It to be durable. When I did a couple of these back in the day I drilled the barrel nut and then glued some Tnuts into the barrel nut (on the back side) instead of tapping the barrel nut.

I used something like:http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-10-32-tpi-x-9-32-in-x-3-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Round-Base-Brad-Hole-Tee-Nut-12-Pack-4142/204785964/

Did you drill the holes with the barrel nut installed? Just wondered if there is enough clearance for the nuts once the barrel is in the way.

Thanks.

Bill

I test fitted the barrel nut to the receiver/barrel and torqued it down to find top dead center, marked it then took it back off, put the tube and barrel nut together and drilled the holes in one shot (so I could get them to line up well). I drilled the holes at 90 degrees offset just a bit so as not to interfere with the gas tube. The nuts left room for the barrel, just need to make sure to get short enough nuts (I just went to the hardware store and looked around till I found something that would work.)

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The automotive push pins I used are made of some kind of nylon polymer. A bit flexible but plenty sturdy. I drilled two holes on opposite sides of the handguard then slid it over the (mounted) barrel nut and marked it and drilled it. Then just tapped the pins in with a small hammer.

Edited by Graham Smith
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I tapped mine and used socket screws. Now that there's other hand guards at 6 oz I won't buy another Clark but that's because the sling mount is heavy and useless and gluing the thing to a barrel nut isn't enough 41b8e7b003ae5219fdc5710ae2372c46.jpg

Edited by Dustbuster1
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