New trigger for old style 625

[hopalong]

Ok,

So I'm still rather new to revolvers as far as parts go:

Have 625-4 mfg in 1989 with .312 smooth trigger....

Have 610-2 mfg in 1999 with .400 smooth trigger....

I like the .400 better, have been looking in Brownells and they offer 2:

Option 1:

Trigger assembly, Smooth, .400" Floating hand SS. 45 ACP

Option 2:

Trigger Smooth, .400" MIM Blue 45 ACP

On the 625-4 when inside it there is a small groove cut in the frame that has a little piece that works with the trigger in it.

The 610 does not have this in it they are built slightly different

I know the 625-4 is one of the "old style" guns and the 610 isn't not only because of the internal parts but the 625 has the firing pin on the hammer too.

My Question: Which one of these are the correct ones to get? (if they are correct at all)

AND what is the small piece in the frame called and what does it do?

Vic you out there, or any one else more "informed" than I?

Thanks ahead of time.

SAM

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

You can change the trigger to about anything you want as long as you can mic the hook of the hand and get a new one the same thickness.

S&W still has some of the old parts. I converted my floating hand gun to standard because I use a wide trigger. The hand is the important thing unless you know how to file ratchets.

Regards,

[Bubber]

Sam. I believe the small piece that slide up and down in the frame is called a "Hammer Block" When the the trigger is pulled it drops out of the way of the hammer. When the trigger is all the way forward it rest under the hammer just below the hammer nose pin. I think that is to keep it from firing if dropped. But on the rebound slide there is another "bump" that rests under a tang on the hammer that also will not let the hammer go forward if you strike the hammer without the trigger being in the rear. I think that is what you are describing. Any way "Merry Christmas Y'All"

[Carmoney]

Sam, I think maybe I can help:

All modern S&W revolvers have a hammer block--that's the part that falls out when you remove the sideplate.

The little piece in the frame you're talking about was first used on the 29/629 Magna-Classic series (now collectible) and for a few years was worked into a variety of other N-frames and then eventually went by the wayside, I think--anyway, it was designed to keep the center pin coming backwards under heavy recoil and popping the cylinder open--which was never a problem with .45 ACP anyway. I'm not sure what the little part is called, but I can tell you that the gun will function fine (and be perfectly safe) without it in there.

Since it is fitted with this little center pin lock, your 625 will not have the floating hand (the 625-2 had those, but they were phased out somewhere near the front end of the 625-3 series due to the horrendous DA pulls created by the sloppy floating hand). You'll see that your hand has a pin long enough to extend all the way through the trigger and operate the little lock thing.

So, I'm fairly sure the .400 MIM trigger should work fine as is. BUT, better yet--if you want to go with a flash-chromed carbon steel part that is similar to the original one in your gun, order your option 1, the "SS" trigger for floating hand. It's going to have the post installed for the floating hand, but you can just pull it out with a pair of vise-grips, then just install your original hand. You might need to do a little fitting work on the new trigger to get it running smooth, or it might drop right in and work fine right away.

I would recommend that you visit S&W's website and download their parts catalog--it's a fairly long print job (about 1/2" printed on one side of the page), but it's worth having around for reference.

Good luck on this--if I can offer any further help or clarification, call me at 515-967-6126. Hope y'all have a great holiday--we'll see you in 2005.

Mike