Changing Barrel Links

[walnutty]

Hi Guys,

I have a couple of 1911's that I would like to tweak and I'm seeking your advise.

Gun #1. Barrel locks up ok for a production gun. I have a slide stop w/ a .200" pin installed but it appears that radial lug engagement is still not as high as my other 1911's.

Would it be advisable to change to a longer link to improve lockup? I don't need the barrel to lock up tight, just want it to lock up higher.

I'm aware that I need to make sure the back of the lower lugs should impact the VIS of the frame. Also, when the barrel unlocks, there is ample room/clearance between the top of the barrel and the inside slide radial lug surfaces.

Gun #2. I love this gun. It has standard fixed sights (staked front) , but it shoots high (~1-1.5" @ 30 ft). Would it be advisable to change to a higher link if the gun specs allow it?

I'm fully aware too that under ideal conditions that lower barrel lugs rest on the slide stop pin when the barrel is in full lock-up. However, only four of my several 1911's do this. The rest ride on the link.

3rd question: What is the proper way to measure link length? How does one know what length to buy? I'm assuming too that in trial fitting, I use a slightly undersized link pin to make the process easier?

Thanks in advance!

[bountyhunter]

Hi Guys,

I have a couple of 1911's that I would like to tweak and I'm seeking your advise.

Gun #1. Barrel locks up ok for a production gun. I have a slide stop w/ a .200" pin installed but it appears that radial lug engagement is still not as high as my other 1911's.

Would it be advisable to change to a longer link to improve lockup? I don't need the barrel to lock up tight, just want it to lock up higher.

Why? Is it shooting too high or you just want more of the barrel lug into the slide cut? I recall there is a spec for the min amount the lug has to be in, but don't remember the exact number. I know it doesn't have to go fully in.

Gun #2. I love this gun. It has standard fixed sights (staked front) , but it shoots high (~1-1.5" @ 30 ft). Would it be advisable to change to a higher link if the gun specs allow it?

Seems like it would be a whole lot easier to shave the top of the rear sight if there is enough material. I couldn't count the number of guns I had to do that on to zero POI.

Can also go to a lighter ammo load (lighter grain bullet/less powder) and that will drop POI.

If my math and brain serve me, I doubt very much you could change the link enough to compensate out 1.5" @ 30' which is about 4" at 25 yards.... that's a TON. Sure the front sight is the right height?

Edited September 28, 2013 by bountyhunter

[Jediwarrior]

Industry standard link size is #3. Center-to-center distance is 0.278 in. Measured with calipers side-to-side is 0.100 in.

I usually link up to #4 (0.283 in. c-c) for factory stock guns like Colt and Kimber. It minimizes the play when you push down the barrel when in battery. This improves accuracy and lock up contact.

Moving up to a longer link improves (not diminishes) VIS contact, but could create a gap between the feed ramp of the barrel and frame for non-ramped 45 barrels. This could cause FTF with lead reloads and some hollowpoints.

On some really loose 45s, I go up to #5 (0.288 in.)

For gun #2, yes, the longer link would theoretically allow it to shoot lower, but I don't know if it actually will, and by how much.

Edited September 28, 2013 by Jediwarrior