Trigger return spring broke on SP01 Shadow

[hiker88]

I broke my trigger return during dry fire practice this evening. It's a good thing it didn't happen during a match.

Does anybody know of a good detail strip video that can walk me through replacing the spring?

Thanks in advance.

[burningsquirrels]

sent you a pm. i have a video on my fb page somewhere how to do it.

[burningsquirrels]

Found it. Click on Gerard G. in my sig, then go to videos, and it's the second video of 8:27 in length.

[hiker88]

Awesome video!!! Thanks Gerard!

[burningsquirrels]

Glad to help!

[tortuga]

This would be a good time to get a cgw trigger pin

[eric nielsen]

+1 on the CGW trigger pin - retains itself with just a step in the OD, not complicated, easy to use.

Found out the hard way (scratched both sides of my frame) that for a CZCustom shop gun you MUST start the trigger pin out with a (pointed) center punch and a bigass hammer, FROM THE LEFT SIDE. If you get the Home Depot set, use the shallow-point first, then use sharper & sharpest center punches, then use a 2mm pin punch (nice to have 2 or 3 since they break easily) to drive the pin all the way out. Then install CGW spring & slave pin into trigger, then install trigger pin as shown in videos.

Do something to protect your thumb safeties - either remove them or arrange wooden boards/blocks to leave the safeties out of contact with your bench. For the CZC pin, I had to put gun on the floor (safeties removed) and place one foot on the muzzle, one foot on the magwell area, big glove on my left hand, and bash away w/hammer.

Edited July 25, 2013 by eric nielsen

[hiker88]

I'll order the CGW trigger along with some more of CGW's reduced power return spring. It was a good thing that I got one from CGW last time I ordered stuff.

With burningsquirrel's video, the entire process was almost painless. The only thing that gave me grief was the very tight stock trigger pin. Trying to push it back and align it with the holes of the trigger took me an extra 5 minutes.

Now, I need video for replacing my stock hammer with a competition one.

[eric nielsen]

PS - pretty sure I should have said drive the CZ Custom Shop pin out using center punch hits on the RIGHT side of the gun, pin will start working its way out of the left side until you can move it with a pin punch and then grab it with a pair of locking pliers once it's more than 1/2 way out. Look and see which end of the pin looks fatter, that is the end you don't want to hit with a punch, it will never budge. Pretty sure that's what Stuart showed me.

Edited August 22, 2013 by eric nielsen

[CeeZer]

Just inspect both sides for trigger pin staking. Drive it out with punch on the side that is less 'staked'.

Working on factory fresh guns, it's always been the right side where I had to put punch.

Also, it makes sense to remove safety/s and sear cage - makes it easier and faster to replace TRS. Frame sits flat on (wooden) board/bench then too.

[asimonp79]

Today I broke the Firing pin spring- I knew I was dryfiring too much..

[burningsquirrels]

Auto parts store, five cent 1/4" or so o-ring, place it where the hammer hits the pin in the back of the slide. It will stay put and catch the hammer every pull.