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308 & Dillon 650XL


andrewst359

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I'd like to use the 650 to load 308WIN. Would it be best to either neck or FL size off the press using a single stage, then prime-powder charge-audible powder alarm- visual check- bullet seat? Or could I neck size and do the rest on the progressive and make almost match ammo? I only FL size when I need to bump my shoulder back. I do this to get max brass life. How do you guys set up your toolhead for reloading 308WIN?

Thanks in advance,

Tim

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I do it all on the 650. It is so mush faster than doing a single stage. It depends on the volume you plan to do.

I use a toolhead for the first pass (size and deprime). I have a couple of dedicated toolheads for sizing(.223, 300 Blackout)for this first step, and I have one floater that I use to swap out the rest of the calibers for size / deprime.

I keep a dedicated toolhead for 2nd pass, loading. I still do full length resizing, but I'm shooting an HK-91 and it is killer on brass.

Here's my process:

Case Lube

Toolhead 1

Station 1 - resize / deprime

Station 3 - blank (should be using my RT-1200 to trim here, haven't bought the die)

Tumble off lube with corn media

Inspect / trim

Toolhead 2

Station 1 - Lee universal deprimer (remove corn media from flash hole)

Station 2 - Prime / powder charge

Station 3 - Powder check

Station 4 - Seat bullet

Station 5 - Lee factory crimp

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I shoot a bolt action Savage Model 12 heavy barrel. That's why I was asking about neck and FL sizing. I do both. Neck size till they don't chamber, then FL size to bump the shoulder back.quote name='Cotys' timestamp='1337346406' post='1707530']

I do it all on the 650. It is so mush faster than doing a single stage. It depends on the volume you plan to do.

I use a toolhead for the first pass (size and deprime). I have a couple of dedicated toolheads for sizing(.223, 300 Blackout)for this first step, and I have one floater that I use to swap out the rest of the calibers for size / deprime.

I keep a dedicated toolhead for 2nd pass, loading. I still do full length resizing, but I'm shooting an HK-91 and it is killer on brass.

Here's my process:

Case Lube

Toolhead 1

Station 1 - resize / deprime

Station 3 - blank (should be using my RT-1200 to trim here, haven't bought the die)

Tumble off lube with corn media

Inspect / trim

Toolhead 2

Station 1 - Lee universal deprimer (remove corn media from flash hole)

Station 2 - Prime / powder charge

Station 3 - Powder check

Station 4 - Seat bullet

Station 5 - Lee factory crimp

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For a bolt action target rifle,I recommend keeping the brass fired through it separate from any other .308 rifle you own. Neck size only, no crimp.Do it all on your 650 in one pass, no advantage in accuracy to sizing separately.

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If i neck size only, after awhile the brass wont chamber in my bolt rifle. thats when i fl size and bump the shoulder. i currently have 3 reloadings on my brass and still going strong. Id fl size all the time but want to extend the brass life as long as possible. but ive also heard that it doesnt make a difference between neck sizing or fl sizing.

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