My First Para is on the way (P18). Now what?

[Buford!]

So, I found a used P18 that looked to be in good condition (I don't have a round count on it) and it's on the way to me now. I'll be using it for 3-gunning and some IPSC shoots. I've read through a number of the threads here so I'm up to speed on the extractor situation. My question now is, being new to the Para brand and all, what other modifications should be done to make this gun a top performer? Top Performer = pull trigger, round fires, empty is ejected, new round loaded, repeat as necessary with no malfunctions. I'm coming from a Smith and Wesson M&P that has this routine nailed so I will expect a gun that will eventually cost well over twice the price to do the same. Your guidance is much appreciated.

I forgot to metion that I'm relatively new to the 1911 platform but I'm not afraid to get in and work on my weapons so if you post something it would be helpful to know if a reasonably intelligent guy could do it or if it should be done by a professional. Thanks!

Edited May 9, 2012 by Buford!

[tplace]

I have two Para's, a P12-45SS and a SX14-45BT, to both I added triggers from Dawson and EGW over sized bushings. The factory bushings on both were pretty loose. Other than that I bought lots of mags. They are both excellent shooters and I compare them closely with my Les Baer.

I looking for a P18 now, it will be my next purchase.

[Buford!]

Good to know. Did you just drop in the trigger parts or send it to Dawson to have it done?

[ParaGunner]

Get rid of the series 80safety levers with a spacer to improve trigger pull. DP Ice magwell and DP basepads can help reloads and capacity. Finish with a good set of sights.

[Buford!]

Roy - where can I go to get more educated on changing out the series 80 safety? Parts needed, process, etc.? Thanks.

[Anopsis]

Roy - where can I go to get more educated on changing out the series 80 safety? Parts needed, process, etc.? Thanks.

Buford,

Remove the two levers in the frame, one from the hammer pin and one that rides on the sear pin. Use THIS to fill the empty space. Make sure to polish it nice and smooth first. Then remove the plunger and spring from the bottom of the slide (located right above the lever you just took out of the frame).

ETA: I just did a quick search on YouTube and found a video of someone removing the S80 parts and installing the frame slot blank:

Good luck!

Edited May 11, 2012 by Anopsis

[Buford!]

Right on. Thanks for the links!

[Addict]

I'll be using it for 3-gunning and some IPSC shoots.

May want to check the rules for the divisions you want to shoot before taking out the firing pin block. I only do USPSA and that is the one bummer about Production - you can't disable any safety's the gun comes with. Too bad because I have a nice CZ 75 that would have much nicer reset if I could have had CZC take it out

Addict

[ParaGunner]

Good point Addict and thanks Anopsis for the links. Make sure its legal for what sport you shoot. Cylinder &Slide also makes a series 80 reduction kit. I tried it and had a 2.5lbs trigger pull weight and it felt OK. I think the trigger breaks cleaner without the Series 80 parts.

[Buford!]

Got the gun yesterday. It's in very good shape. Appears to have been shot very little. I disassembled it and wiped off what little poweder residue was there. I haven't had a change to fire it yet but here are a few observations from a newbie....

- The slide to frame fit is nice and tight. No rattle or play at all. I'm plenty pleased with that aspect of the gun.

- The trigger is pretty heavy but breaks over crisply with a nice, short reset. I'm not sure if it's normal but I can really feel a lot of vibration in the palm of my hand through the main spring housing when I pull the trigger. Would a metal mainspring housing fix this?

- I'm not sure how tight the bushing is supposed to be but it seems to fit pretty well. There's just a little light coming through. How much movement is considered acceptable?

- The thumb safety sucks. It will travel past the firing position slightly with an audible click and then goes back to the desired position. I guess I need to get a new one.

- I'm guessing that a number of trigger parts are MIM parts. I'm not educated enough to tell MIM parts from other parts but the hammer has a noticable void/hole in the face just below the contact point with the firing pin.

- This last one is not gun related but rather regarding some mags that I bought from a re-seller. I'm not sure who the maker is but they are marked "Made in Canada" and have the Para logo on the extended base plate. The after market mags would not lock-in... I could pull them out without pushing the mag release button. I measured the body width of the factory mags that came with the gun - .950". The ones I bought were .935". I guess that little bit was enough to make them not work. Gotta send them back.

I'll report back when I get a chance to test fire it (hopefully tomorrow) but if anyone wants to share some insight on the items I listed above that would be great. Thanks.

[Anopsis]

I'm not sure if it's normal but I can really feel a lot of vibration in the palm of my hand through the main spring housing when I pull the trigger. Would a metal mainspring housing fix this?

I assume you mean when the hammer strikes? You're feeling the vibrations transmitted from the hammer, down through the hammer strut into the spring in the MSH. A steel one would definitely help absorb some of that due to it's density and higher mass. All of this may be a non-issue for you in practice however, since you're not likely to feel that when a round is actually being fired.

I'm not sure how tight the bushing is supposed to be but it seems to fit pretty well. There's just a little light coming through. How much movement is considered acceptable?

When the slide is forward and the barrel is locked up you shouldn't feel any movement. I'm not sure what you mean exactly by how much light is 'coming through', but there has to be clearance within the bushing for the barrel to tilt when it unlocks & locks.

When the slide is in battery can you wiggle the muzzle of the barrel any? There shouldn't be any play then. The bushing should fit snugly in the slide as well. Ideally you'll need a bushing wrench to turn it but in practice this is rarely found on production guns.

The thumb safety sucks. It will travel past the firing position slightly with an audible click and then goes back to the desired position. I guess I need to get a new one.

This is due to the dished area on the thumb safety (where the plunger contacts it) being too shallow. I use a spotting drill that goes through the plunger tube to slightly deepen the dish so the plunger gets a better 'hold' on it. You might be able to accomplish the same thing by using a drill bit (do it by hand if you try it).

I'm guessing that a number of trigger parts are MIM parts. I'm not educated enough to tell MIM parts from other parts but the hammer has a noticable void/hole in the face just below the contact point with the firing pin.

The hammer is definitely MIM, but when you say 'void/hole', is it a depression or an honest-to-goodness hole? If it's a hole get rid of that sucker!

[Buford!]

Good point about the vibration just being a practice/dry fire thing. We'll see how it feels after a trigger job.

There is no movement of the barrel and slide when it's in battery. My light comment was based on when I had the barrel out and I was sliding the bushing up and down the barrel.

I might try the drill with the safety but I kinda want to get a larger rest area for my thumb anyway so I'll probably go ahead and order a new one.

The "hole" in the hammer isn't really a hole in the sense that it goes very deep but it's easily noticable with the naked eye so it's more of an indent. Same thing with the plate that holds the firing pin in place (not sure what that's called). It has two indentations on the face.

One other thing that I nocticed is that the trigger has quite a bit of play up and down. I can push it to the top of the frame and the bottom of the trigger guard. Maybe a new trigger will fit better. Not sure.

Thanks for the feedback, Anopsis.

[Anopsis]

There is no movement of the barrel and slide when it's in battery. My light comment was based on when I had the barrel out and I was sliding the bushing up and down the barrel.

There WILL be free play in that case. Check the bushing at the muzzle only, and remember that - as I said before - there has to be room for the barrel to tilt during lock & unlock. I wouldn't worry about bushing fit until you shoot it and see if it's accurate.

The "hole" in the hammer isn't really a hole in the sense that it goes very deep but it's easily noticable with the naked eye so it's more of an indent. Same thing with the plate that holds the firing pin in place (not sure what that's called). It has two indentations on the face.

The second part you're referring to is called the firing pin stop. The hammer is more of a concern for me, although without seeing it I can't really gauge how bad it is. Still, if it were my pistol - I'd change the hammer and firing pin stop for better quality parts, based solely on your description.

One other thing that I nocticed is that the trigger has quite a bit of play up and down. I can push it to the top of the frame and the bottom of the trigger guard. Maybe a new trigger will fit better. Not sure.

Factory triggers are often undersized in this regard. A good deal of vertical free play is to be expected on a mass-produced gun like this. If this is something that bothers you go with an oversize trigger that has to be fit to the frame.

Thanks for the feedback, Anopsis.

Anytime! Us Para guys have to stick together!