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Trigger question

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I just bought a gen4 34 that I am going to use in IDPA/SSP.

I have been using my 19, but since I carry my 19 I haven't touched the trigger other than polishing it up some.


Are drop in trigger kits from Vanek or glocktriggers, that are production/ssp legal, any different than polishing up your own parts, changing the springs and putting in an overtravel stop?

Are they doing anything to actually modify the parts to change the geometry or is it just a highly polished setup with the same parts you can get?

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I just got the Vogel kit for my 17. I did the .25 trigger job but did not change the springs. The trigger was ok but I wanted something better so I got the Vogel. I ended up with a really nice 2 3/4 lb. pull, nice and smooth with a crisp break. It came with 3 striker springs and I used the 4.5. I am really happy with the kit. But I wonder if I could have gotten the same thing doing it myself. I didn't know that you could get the lightened springs. So you could try polishing everything yourself get all the lightened springs and see if it works for you, if not get one of the kits. Glock triggers, in the kit I bought did not change any profiles of the parts, they are all stock glock parts polished to a mirror shine.

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I started with a G34:

- Polished the parts=a little smoother, not really lighter.

- Wolff springs (with reduced power striker) = lighter trigger (doesn't like hard primers)

- Went through 3-4 different disconnectors = Different feel.

- After several years running the above I installed a well known after market trigger = different, about the same weight. The connector has a different profile/angle so the trigger feel was different.

- Installed an over travel stop= not much difference for me as my trigger has significant pre-travel vs. over travel.

My opinion is that the angle of the disconnector and the springs make the biggest difference. The KIT I have also relocated the "return"? spring in a new hole in the trigger bar and the trigger bar was bent at the spring mounting point. This combination may reduce pull.

So if you have a G34 connector, polished parts, and reduced power springs: the trigger KIT I used was not earth shattering/much different.

Using Federal Primers I never had a problem with light strikes.

I have gone to a full power striker spring for reliability when shooting all types of ammo.

So now when I hear someone says, “I installed “X” trigger and it is night and day (Awesome, Incredible, etc.) difference”, I think their trigger must have been bad/bone stock before. I would say these trigger KITs would show a big difference compared to a stock 19/17/etc trigger and would be an easy way to get a better trigger.

I have tried (dry fired other peoples) several other triggers and while they feel different (more or less pre travel/over travel) I have not found the “1911” trigger yet.

My advice, try someone else’s before you buy.

David E.

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Simply No, for the SSP legal kits they are not changing the geometry of the trigger bar. A simple polish job, change springs, and use a 3.5 connector and you will be good to go for $50 or less for the connector and spring. This will give you a nice light crisp trigger that will be great for SSP. I'm using a 4.5lb striker spring, Lone Wolf 3.5 Connector, reduced power striker safety pin spring. I like the factory trigger spring, do NOT use the extra power trigger spring with a lighter striker spring it may cause safeties not to work properly.

Now I went just a little farther and rounded my striker safety pin, and re-profiled my trigger bar nose some, still all SSP legal but shortens the reset a lot. Now this can also be acheived with a Ghost rocket connector but I like my Lone Wolf connector.

As far as tools, a dremel comes in real handy with some metal polish or buffing compound. Also I use the stones from my Lansky Knife Sharping kit to help smooth out and round the metal if I change the profile or to remove the machine marks before I polish.

Edited by Marshal82
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Depends on want you want to do, if you want no hassle and a good trigger get the kit and go shoot it. If you want to save some money, and learn a little about your firearm I recommend getting the parts and doing it yourself. They are stamped metal parts, it's not perfection and they are all a little different, but not hard to install or polish at all. As with any part in any firearm, be careful the spring cups on the striker and and the safety pin spring are really easy to loose!

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