Jerome Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I haven't been reloading long (3-4months) and have loaded 9mm and .45 so far. I'm using a Hornady LnL AP. I just purchased the new Hornady 3 die set (546534 @ Midway) for .40 S&W and it comes with the new Hornady Seating Die with Taper Crimp. I know most use a separate die for crimping as I have for 9mm and .45 but I understood this was because the old seating die had a roll crimp and not taper. So, has anyone used the new Hornady Seating Die with Taper Crimp? What issues should I be concerned with and what should I look out for if I use it? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 You still need to crimp seperately. If you try to crimp while the bullets moving, you could buckle the case, or damage the bullet. Roll crimps for revolver cartridges wouldn't be a problem, the bullets are designed to be crimped in the crimp groove, and not into the side of the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I use the Hornady seat/crimp combo to do both as it was designed. Sometimes I'll seat with a Redding comp seater, and crimp with the Hornady seat/crimp, but usually just the hornady die. It works just fine for me on lead or jacketed ammo. Mine is 2 yrs old, so it may not be the taper crimp one, but works if adjusted properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerome Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Good point about crimping while the bullet it moving. I didn't think of that. I played with the Seating/Taper Crimp die last night and it took a bit of time to get it adjusted but it seems to work fine. It has a ring to adjust taper crimp and and the top knob to adjust seating depth so holding one still while adjusting the other was a bit of a challenge. After adjusting, I loaded all the stations and ran about 15 dummy rounds through. The taper crimp and seating length were pretty consistent. I'm loading Bayou Bullets so I payed particular attention to see if any of the coating was being scraped off and didn't notice anything using a magnifying glass but I'll keep an eye on that. Anything else I should be looking for? Thanks. You still need to crimp seperately. If you try to crimp while the bullets moving, you could buckle the case, or damage the bullet. Roll crimps for revolver cartridges wouldn't be a problem, the bullets are designed to be crimped in the crimp groove, and not into the side of the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I've been using this in .40 for a while now ... no issues once I got it set up properly, which really didn't take very long at all ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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