Top three modifications to a stock P16?

[texasag93]

I replaced my plastic mag catch on mine shortly after I got it. It will wear and cause mags to sag. Feeding problems will follow. Just best to replace it and not worry about it. TXAG

[L1011]

OK, Let's make this real. And the reality is that the gunsmith that I would like to

do the work is not going to be able to work on my P16 till the off season.

Now, what would you do first. Knowing you had to do the work, without screwing

up the gun. I have an idea of some of the things that I could do. But, it's not

always straight forward.

Example:

I add shock buffs to all my 1911's. However, the P16 is the first gun I owned that

would not allow the slide to lock open, on a empty magazine, with the standard

wilson shock buff in place.

What's needed here is "gun-tricking 101 for idiots". I'm sure others may benefit

from your responses.

[stryfox]

I love my 16-40 but changeing only 3 things didn't do it for me.

1 Plastic mag release= junk

2 Plastic mainspring housing= junk

3 You need to see to shoot and sights that fall of are no good. I went with a dawson fiberoptic front and bomar adj rear.

I think the only original parts left on mine are

Frame-Has been accurailed

Slide

Slide stop

Grips

Beavertail(limited model)

Some pins and such.

This is my favorite gun as I like having a steel frame widebody.

[kevin c]

Now, what would you do first...knowing you had to do the work...

You're doing the work yourself? That depends on your gunsmithing knowledge, handiness with tools, guts, and money (to replace whatever you FUBAR).

Me, I don't take any metal off my guns, except polishing parts and mebbe a little cautious file work on blending the magwell. Remember, once the metal is gone, you pretty much can't put it back.

Dovetailed sights take milling the slide. Safeties need to be fit for proper function. Some magwells are drop in, but the best are blended, along with beavertails, and some need milling down the receiver. Replacement high end barrels need to be fitted. And trigger work is an art form.

Easy stuff? Skateboard tape or EricW's adhesive grips on the stocks and frontstrap. Drop in parts like full length tungsten guide rods, replacement mag catches with oversized buttons, replacement MS housings, configured (flat, arch or wedge) to fit the gun to your hand, extended slide stops. A Briley spherical bushing (I think they still sell them, and I think you have to mic your barrel to get the right size) is a possibility.

Speaking of barrels, the two factory bbls on my barrels seem to run a little undersized in the bore. Jacketed and lead shot fine, but the one brand of plated bullets I used had the plating strip off on the lands, leaving a starburst pattern hole on the target. No such problems with the Limcat and Schuemann bbls I have. But most barrels do need to be fitted.

[L1011]

Who said anything about cutting metal.

I'm talking drop-in Mods.

I have yet to find a "gunsmith" that hasn't FUBAR'ed one of my guns. Last thing

I want to do is wreck another one.

The guy I'm waiting on has some national recognition for quality work.

[stryfox]

Just to add- The stuff I did not do myself to my 16-40 was done by Cylinder and Slide.

I feel they did a super job.

[srf]

This is only slightly tongue and cheek:

Sell the Para - Buy a STI or SVI.

Had a Para - Bought a STI: Twice the pistol.

[3quartertime]

As a para shooter I agree with most of the ideas above. I disagree with scraping every internal and starting over. If you start with that mentality then just sell it off and buy the gun that will make you a GM.

My three recommendations,,,

Mag release...

It will wear out quickly and it is cheap. It may need a little work but it's an 'at

home' solution.

Trigger job...

If you find a local, smaller name smith he can probably do a fairly good

trigger for 30 bucks or so. Well worth the money...

Mag well...

A Dawson ICE fits right on and is a great well. I prefer the fit and finish

of an S&A but I also like the ICE. Don't have to cut the frame!!!

A fourth option...

If you have the trigger done by a local smith I would consider having him

open up the chamber a little. Most para shooters I know load long for

reliability and feel. It's just peace of mind that your loads will work...

In my opinion the parts that will break will break anyway. Why not get a little use and decide what specific parts may fit you better. I've broke several parts, but usually I've seen the signs of breakage before a dilema arose.

With the few internals and externals to make the gun more limited friendly, I tend to see a para as the glock of the 1911's. It's cheap, berated and once you get it running smoothly the fact that it doesn't have an S_I on the slide won't hold you back at all.

[L1011]

Thanks for all the help.

I put the P16 on "ICE" this weekend. It fit like a dream (like a good woman . . nice

and tight).

All my magzines have been changed to Dawson basepads. (WOW what a great

combination)

The mag release is on the way. I took out the plastic one to look it over and I have

to agree with the prevailing arguements about replacing the plastic. I bought the

Dawson extended mag release in Stainless. I'm going for the two tone look. All

the replacement parts will be stainless or clear anodized Aluminum.

This off season I'll be looking for the trigger work and the new safeties. If the

money holds out, new sights too.