EGW Hammer/sear + stock firing pin and FPS - no ignition

[kamac]

I recently installed the EGW hammer and sear in my Match (second sear, boogered up the first one), and cannot get it to fire. The trigger works smoothly, resets properly, and drops the hammer. However, with live ammo all I get is a faint mark on the primer. I was using the 15# spring, but have since reinstalled the factory hammer spring. I have not had a chance to test fire it since changing the hammer spring. The firing pin is factory (gun is used for IDPA so I have to keep the FPS). Anyone have some insight for me, or will the heavier hammer spring fix things?

Kevin

Edited May 14, 2011 by kamac

[Skydiver]

I recently installed the EGW hammer and sear in my Match (second sear, boogered up the first one), and cannot get it to fire. The trigger works smoothly, resets properly, and drops the hammer. However, with live ammo all I get is a faint mark on the primer. I was using the 15# spring, but have since reinstalled the factory hammer spring. I have not had a chance to test fire it since changing the hammer spring. The firing pin is factory (gun is used for IDPA so I have to keep the FPS). Anyone have some insight for me, or will the heavier hammer spring fix things?

Kevin

Make sure the hammer isn't dragging against the sear while it is falling. I had this happen to my Match .45 when I had set the over travel too long (i.e. made the trigger travel too short.). There has to be enough over travel to make the sear clear the hammer during it's entire fall movement.

[RIIID]

The EGW sear doesn't have the arm to push the firing pin safety block up and out of the way. When using the EGW sear you have to remove the firing pin safety block so the gun can fire and Henning's XL firing pin is also a good replacement at this time.

Rich

[Skydiver]

Rich is exactly correct. I missed the part in the title that you said EGW sear and hammer.

Since you said that for IDPA you need to keep the firing pin block in place, have you considered going back to the stock sear and hammer?

[kamac]

That may be my only option, at least for a major match. I was able to square up the factory sear and clear up my hammer follow problem for a couple of matches. I hate to go back to stock after investing the time and $ on the EGW parts. I guess I will have to view it as more gunsmithing experience on Tanfos.

[kamac]

Update - Henning's XL firing pin in, still no bang. I emailed Henning and he said to ensure the over-travel isn't too tight (I have it backed out as far as it will go), that it may cause the hammer to drag on the sear and slow down enough to cause problems. As far as me and Mr. Sharpie can tell, it looks like the the hammer half cock is hitting the sear when pull I the trigger. Also, the trigger will not drop the hammer from halfcock. I can feel the trigger bow rubbing the sear, and see it move slightly. I don't know if it is supposed to, but am pretty sure it used to.

...so, does anyone have any hints for me?

[CHA-LEE]

The Half Cock notch needs to be tuned just like everything else when you do a trigger job. The EGW Sear and Hammer that Henning sells are "Prepped" which means that they are close to being fitted properly but they are rarely perfect and always require fitting when installing them to ensure proper functionality. In your situation you need to lower the height of the half cock notch so that the sear lip will clear it as the hammer rotates forward. If you do not feel comfortable with doing this on your own you should leave it up to a qualified gunsmith.

[kamac]

Thanks for the advice Cha-Lee, that did the trick. I lowered the half cock notch, and undercut the bottom of the hammer as noted in another thread. I will go to the range tomorrow and see how she runs.