Starting to reload .223

[Outfitter]

Hi,

I am an experienced reloader who recently obtained an old 550 that I have reloaded 1000's of pistol on. I am going to make the jump to reloading .223 on the progressive. (I have always single staged my rifle ammo).

Before I buy everything I would like to make sure the process I am thinking of makes sense.

I will be using mixed brass, mostly range pick-up.

1)After tumbling brass, use my 550 as a single stage with only a Dillon carbide die to resize and deprime with its own separate toolhead. It makes sense to me to dedicate a toolhead just for the resize stage.

2)Tumble off lube

3)Trim (I have a Giraud)

4)Swage if needed

5)Reload using a Lee Universal Deprimer in Station 1 to clean primer pocket.

Maybe it would just be easier to use my old single stage to size, but the Dillon is set up in a more comfortable place.

Does anyone use their Dillon as a single stage occasionally??

Thanks in Advance!

Tight Groups,

Lee

[biggdawg]

Hi,

I am an experienced reloader who recently obtained an old 550 that I have reloaded 1000's of pistol on. I am going to make the jump to reloading .223 on the progressive. (I have always single staged my rifle ammo).

Before I buy everything I would like to make sure the process I am thinking of makes sense.

I will be using mixed brass, mostly range pick-up.

1)After tumbling brass, use my 550 as a single stage with only a Dillon carbide die to resize and deprime with its own separate toolhead. It makes sense to me to dedicate a toolhead just for the resize stage.

2)Tumble off lube

3)Trim (I have a Giraud)

4)Swage if needed

5)Reload using a Lee Universal Deprimer in Station 1 to clean primer pocket.

Maybe it would just be easier to use my old single stage to size, but the Dillon is set up in a more comfortable place.

Does anyone use their Dillon as a single stage occasionally??

Thanks in Advance!

Tight Groups,

Lee

looks like a good plan that is pretty much what i do with my hornady lnl. single stage with my case feeder for size and deprime. lets you really crank them out.

[Patrick Sweeney]

A two-head setup? That's what I've done for twenty years.

Tumble clean,sort out crimped brass (later work) then lube and start;

head #1: Sizing die and Dillon trim die with trimmer. the first sizing die does most fo the work, the Dillon die does just enough so the case is centered and can't vibrate.

Then tumble clean, and into second head.

head #2; sizing die, backed off enough so it doesn't size (no lube, remember?)but the decapping pin punches out any tumbling media, and the stem re-irons eny dented necks from cleaning. Then, normal powder drop, bullet seat and crimp dies.

The crimped cases get decapped, sized and trimmed, then set aside for a slow day/weekend when I can swage the primer pockets.

[whistlepig]

For .223 on a progressive I actually have found that what you propose is a bit of overkill. I check my brass, setting any crimped primer stuff aside for later, and while doing so give it a good visual check. I then tumble, lube with one shot, then run them through the Dillon resize die with no primers in the machine. I remove the cases as they clear the first position. I then case gauge and set aside any too long for a later trimming. (I have been known to do this part on a single stage as well) I then stockpile this "ready brass". When I am ready to load, I set up the press (a 550B) with a full toolhead and primers. It doesn't hurt the brass a bit to pass through the size die again and each station works as designed. I guess what I am saying is, I seperate brass prep from "loading" I have found that the .223 ammo made on my 550B is very consistent. It is hard to tell unless I run it through a custom bolt gun. For AR work, it is the ticket.

[Chills1994]

I should probably change my signature line to reflect what I am about to write next.

use the RCBS X sizer die. it keeps the brass from growing.

you can trim with whatever tools you like, I personally like...errr...liked the Possum Hollow Cutter and its toolholder (available from MidwayUSA)...do a search for "wolverineatwork" at youtube and you can see how it works. you can chuck it into a handheld drill or a drill press.

and then since you are going to use the RCBS X sizer die, you trim your .223 brass down to 1.730"...20 thousandths under your typical trim to length for .223 .

I started out with factory ammo, so when I reload MY! brass for the second time, then I screw down the mandrel/decapping stem on the RCBS X sizer die...and let the magic happen...LOL!

that keeps the brass from growing and so you don't have to trim every danged time.

you can basically treat your .223 brass like straight walled semi-auto brass from that point on.

the only thing to be aware of is that you keep YOUR brass seperate from any other brass you scrounge off the range. I use a red laundry marker to stripe the outside of the case. it also makes it easier to find in the grass.

you can check out a video at RCBS.com on a cutaway X sizer die to see how it works.

when I have everything running right and treating it like say 9mm brass, I tumbled lube off the completely loaded rounds. maybe just 10 minutes in the tumbler.

[Boxerglocker]

I should probably change my signature line to reflect what I am about to write next.

use the RCBS X sizer die. it keeps the brass from growing.

you can trim with whatever tools you like, I personally like...errr...liked the Possum Hollow Cutter and its toolholder (available from MidwayUSA)...do a search for "wolverineatwork" at youtube and you can see how it works. you can chuck it into a handheld drill or a drill press.

and then since you are going to use the RCBS X sizer die, you trim your .223 brass down to 1.730"...20 thousandths under your typical trim to length for .223 .

I started out with factory ammo, so when I reload MY! brass for the second time, then I screw down the mandrel/decapping stem on the RCBS X sizer die...and let the magic happen...LOL!

that keeps the brass from growing and so you don't have to trim every danged time.

you can basically treat your .223 brass like straight walled semi-auto brass from that point on.

the only thing to be aware of is that you keep YOUR brass seperate from any other brass you scrounge off the range. I use a red laundry marker to stripe the outside of the case. it also makes it easier to find in the grass.

you can check out a video at RCBS.com on a cutaway X sizer die to see how it works.

when I have everything running right and treating it like say 9mm brass, I tumbled lube off the completely loaded rounds. maybe just 10 minutes in the tumbler.

The RCBS X-die interests me, but one thing I don't understand is how the set-up is just based on cammimg the press. Can you use a Dillon rifle case to set it up for proper head spacing?

[bgary]

The RCBS X-die interests me, but one thing I don't understand is how the set-up is just based on cammimg the press. Can you use a Dillon rifle case to set it up for proper head spacing?

It "appears" (I have one, but haven't used it yet) that it is basically a full-length sizing die *plus* a mandrel. According to the instructions, you size your brass using it like a "normal" sizing die, with the mandrel backed out, and then trim to slightly under-length. After that operation, you screw the mandrel down and the idea is that while you're sizing the case, the mandrel holds the case-mouth in place, effectively blocking the brass from flowing in a way that makes the neck grow. Interesting idea... but it makes me wonder where the flow *does* occur. The instructions talk about watching for "buckling" in the case body :-0

[COMATZD]

I've started collecting my .223 brass (as well as some range brass) and I hope to do the same process as described with two toolheads. Can someone explain or post pictures to show the difference between crimped and non-crimped primer pockets? I understand the concept but I don't know that I could look at a case and say yes or no.

[Chills1994]

see the ring around the primer?

your other two clues would be the "LC" and that NATO stamp which is the circle with the crosshair looking mark in the middle. The "LC" stands for Lake City. Which I guess just about all your military or federal government ammo comes from...just about.

I have set aside my military crimped in primer'ed brass for another time...forget a rainy day...I'd need a rainy week to have to put up with that much work.

which ...not to drift this thread too far...there are basically three camps here on the BE forums:

1. I've got a 1050 and it swages out the crimp automatically. HA! HA!

2. I have the Dillon swaging tool and I love it.

3. I use some sort of reamer or cutter and basically mill or machine out the crimp