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witness match light primer strike


shawnba67

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I recnetly picked up some on sale pmc luger ammo. experienced about 2 light strikes a box, all went of on second try. I currently don't compete but use as carry pistol when concealment is not an issue( woods walks, dog running,keep it bedside ect). I bought a henning long firing pin which seems to solve the light strike problem but am very concerned about the loss of firing pin block. Are there any other recomendations? Hammer spring? I understand not carring pmc would be the easiest but it was on super sale and i got 1k of them plus if it'll do it withpmc then it might on my other ammo sometime . looking for the absolute reliablity fix. All info and opinion's are appreciated.

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You should only be getting the light strikes on your match if you had swapped to a lighter hammer spring (or if your hammer spring is worn out). Replace your hammer spring with the factory spring.

Also check the hammer. Consider the information in this thread:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119887&view=findpost&p=1357062

[Moderators: I think this should be in the EAA/Tanfoglio forum, not the revolver forum.]

Edited by Skydiver
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thanks for all the great info fellas( is a completely factory gun except for firing pin less than 1k round count). And i agree i accidentally posted this in revolver anyone know how to move it to tanfoglio forum?

You did that because you want to be a revolver shooter. You just haven't realized it yet. :lol:

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Does it feel like there is drag on the hammer if you pull it back with your thumb? Is it gummy? I know all of my Tanfo's came with a heavy coating of cosmoline and needed full disassembly to get cleaned up.

If you detect anything except pure smoothness pulling the hammer back (and going forward), then I'd take the hammer assembly out and clean it good. Its possible there is some cosmoline build up on the hammer spring, which would make your strikes sluggish. I then put a light coating of CLP on the spring and strut. Also inspect the hammer and if it looks like there is any burrs or high spots near the edges, try sanding both sides with some 2000 grit sandpaper. I put the paper flat on my workbench (which is formica) and then press the piece flat against the paper, working it in a circle.

If the hammer seems smooth and not gummy at all, then would take the firing pin out and inspect the firing pin hole. Next thoroughly clean the firing pin channel, firing pin, and spring. Inspect the factory firing pin to make sure there isn't a burr in the "fatter" area where the firing pin block engages in the firing pin (as that is the only part that may touch the firing pin channel).

Hope that helps.

- Nealio

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Great advice Nealio. I will check and clean this weekend, I did have the old firing pin handy and thinking I'm tracking what you mean by "fatter" part. There is an impact burr on the pin, coincides with the small machined catch on the blocker piece. This is a fairly poor design isn't it the pin now has a nice little ramp instead of a shoulder for blocker to grab. Is this curable? Or should I start practicing cocking on the draw instead of switching safety off(on draw)? Also thought i saw somewhere that I could just install regular witness DA trigger and be DA, is this true? If so how would it rate feel wise to my match trigger SA mode vs SA mode. Thanks for any info Shawnba67

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You need a DA hammer and a DA connector to make it DA/SA. You could use your SA trigger I think if you wanted to. The DA hammers have taller sear hooks so they will never have as short of a break on the trigger pull. You could probably get it close to what a SA trigger feels like. My Baby Eagle has a very smooth and light DA pull, but my SA guns definitely have a shorter and crisper break.

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