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686 cylinder coming out


Merlin Orr

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I know I saw this addressed somewhere recently here but am not finding the info I need. S&W 686 4 to be specific....Cylinder loose and so I loosened the front screw on the sideplate and put the yoke back in with no problem. Re tightened with no problem - nice and snug. Practiced about 3 reloads and the cylinder again came out. The side plate screw is still very snug.

What gives here?

I recall on the thread I mentioned seeing that a solid pin could be put in for a more dependable fix.

Thoughts and comments appreciated...

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Yeah, take out the yoke screw and use pliers to pull out the plunger. Take out the spring and replace it with a small piece of drill rod (or whatever) that is cut to the correct length to create a "solid" yoke screw system that allows the crane to pivot but not come out. It's a trial and error process, but not a difficult thing to do.

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Ok- I've had enough worrying about this. I just did the mod. I just cut down a rod that was almost the same diameter of the plunger (rivet was closest I could find) and cut a piece- actually like a tiny slice. At first it was too long and I could feel the resistance when opening the cylinder. Filed a tad off and now the cylinder opens very smooth but no forward play at all. We'll see how it goes...

If there was a solid screw that could be "worked" to fit that would be awesome.

One thing I did notice though.. the point of the plunger did NOT center with the grove in the yoke... I was surprised that it wasn't.

Edited by lugnut
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Did you remove the yoke screw and look at it? Is it bent? Sounds like it may be. If so, you could simply order another.

Tom

Nope- screw isn't bent at all... and I have a back up. With the cylinder in the gun- the center/bottom of the V-groove in the yoke is not in the center of the hole. This is validated by seeing the slight wear marks in the yoke from the plunger. I'll check my back up 686 to see how that one looks...

EDIT: Ok back up gun plunger hits the grove in the yoke in the same place. I think I know why... It hits the side of the V-grove so that the "pressure" of the plunger pushes the cylinder towards the back.

Merlin- I guess one possible draw back of this mod is that if there are any gaps (since there is no spring loaded plunger assuring there is no gap) the cylinder could hit the forcing cone?? The front edges of the cylinder are chamfered... I"m sure that might be why.

Edited by lugnut
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Welcome to the wonderful world of current S&W revolver manufacturing. Elmer Keith would be rolling over in his grave if he saw what was coming out of the S&W main production line, and their Performance Center, during the last ten years. You can find a pile of threads/comments on how to fix the new revos that S&W is currently sending out.... but why should you have to fix an expensive new gun? If you're a fan of Minor Revo, try a Ruger GP-100. Quick polish on the internals, Wilson Spring Kit (trigger return & mainspring), smooth 8 pound DA pull... no malfs. They always work. No probs, and they don't keyhole inexpensive lead bullets, like the S&Ws do. They actually like lead bullets. What's not to like?

GOF

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If you're a fan of Minor Revo, try a Ruger GP-100.......What's not to like?

Only the fact that Ruger has never made revolvers that are useful for competition (except perhaps ISPA SSR). They have never made a .45 or 10mm that utilizes moonclips, and they have never offered an 8-shot .357. Too bad, really. It would be good for S&W to have some competition in that area.

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Mike,

I too would like to see Ruger bring out a a six shot moon clip .45 ACP and 10mm in 4, 5 and 6 inch barrel lengths. I'd buy a 4 and 6 inch. No real use for the 8 shot, since there is no ICORE presence in my area. And, the 4 inch .357 does great for IDPA SSR. You can even add aftermarket grips and not get DQed at the weigh in, unlike the 686. But,if Ruger brought out the others, at least you could expect them to work without a whole lot of aftermarket effort, and they'll probably shoot lead bullets well. That's not something I'm seeing from the current crop of Smiths.

GOF

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You can even add aftermarket grips and not get DQed at the weigh in, unlike the 686.

GOF not to get to far off topic, but is the 686 that close to weight that different grips will put it over?

Has this been a problem with the 686?

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Some 686 have gone over the weight limit with certain aftermarket grips, and my understanding is that some shooters have had their guns disallowed. I believe there is a previous thread on this.

GOF

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Those would have to be some honkin' grips. :surprise:

For fun, I just weighed my Uncle Mike's-equipped 686 (39.6 oz). UM grips alone = 3.9 oz, so the gun itself = 35.7 oz. SSR has a 42 oz limit, so 6.3 oz grips get me there. I dug through my box and did some weighing:

Pachmayr Grippers: 5.50z

Uncle Mikes: 3.9 oz

Hogue Rubber RB: 2.4 oz

JM smooth wood: 2.3 oz

Even the heaviest of these (Pachmayr) would keep my 686 legal. Just wondering which K/L-frame grips could weigh almost 15% more than Pachmayr grippers? Hogue Big Butt? They're a bit longer than the JMs, but the big butt can't add that much weight.

Tom

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The factory listed empty weight on the standard 4-inch six-shot Model 686 (which is the gun I thought the OP was speaking of) is 39.7 ounces. It doesn't take much in the way of extra aftermarket grip weight to put that gun over 42 ounces. And, it has happened at matches. I believe that has been mentioned on this forum before.

GOF

Edited by GOF
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It doesn't take much in the way of extra aftermarket grip weight to put that gun over 42 ounces. And, it has happened at matches.

I don't doubt that it has happened - Just curious which grips can be that heavy, as it seems to me it would take a lot of grip weight to get it there. Even equipped with heavy (6.04oz) Pachmayr Presentations, my 686 would squeak by @ 41.74 oz.

Tom

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Is the weight for the gun you are quoting a round butt 4" L frame?

I can tell you with great assurance that a square butt 4" 586 or 686 w/Pachmayr Grippers will weigh more than 42 oz. The Grippers have a steel insert in them that the other grips do not. Couple that with the additional weight in a square butt frame, especially one with a wide trigger and hammer, and you have your answer.

Craig

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That is interesting to know that a Round Butt weighs less than a Square Butt, I don't have access to a scale and was trying to figure out where I was going to be able to weigh my 686 RB, the only locations I could think of with accurate scales were the post office and the grocery store :rolleyes:

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The Post Office is a really bad idea. I think it's a federal felony to bring a gun in there. A grocery store with a certified scale can work... if you know the boss... and pick an approriate time when customers won't be scared poopless. Another option, if one is available in your area, is a fishing bait&tackle shop that has a certified scale to weigh bait or caught fish. That's normally a more gun friendly environment, and might work for you. Or, some gun shops that cater to competitive shooters may also have a calibrated postal scale, and that would be the best bet. The "worst bet" is not knowing what your gun weighs after you pay the entry fee to a sanctioned IDPA match, travel expenses to get there, motel costs to sleep there, restaurant meals, etc....and then find out you're an ounce over weight for your gun division and get DQed. Bummer! If you don't know what your gun weighs, find out. The alternative can really suck.

GOF

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How did this turn into a weight of your revo thread?? :roflol: Anyway- I replaced the spring in my yoke screw with a metal spacer- something just wasn't right. I sized it so the cylinder opened and closed with ease but didn't move forward. Well when I took it to the range several times the trigger got difficult to pull... kinda like something was jamming/rubbing. I installed the spring and it was fine again... not sure why....

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How did this turn into a weight of your revo thread?? :roflol: Anyway- I replaced the spring in my yoke screw with a metal spacer- something just wasn't right. I sized it so the cylinder opened and closed with ease but didn't move forward. Well when I took it to the range several times the trigger got difficult to pull... kinda like something was jamming/rubbing. I installed the spring and it was fine again... not sure why....

Probably induced some end shake. In the days of non spring loaded yoke screws, the button of the yoke was fitted to the screw. The #2 screw and the Yoke screw were interchangeable but the third screw was not. Then there was what S&W called an "End Shakes crew" It was sized just a little larger on the tip for when you screwed up with the Barrette file. Peening the button was sometimes necessary.

S&W will send you screws with the spring loaded plunger and they will usually solve the problem without fitting.

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