XL650 .300 WIN Mag sizing die setup

[HCRRay]

Although not new to reloading, this is the first time I have attempted reloading of a rimless caliber, i.e., .300 WIN Mag.

I have a Dillon XL650 with casefeeder and am using a Redding Type-S Bushing Style Full Length Sizing Die (this is also my first experience with a bushing style die). I have adjusted the die so that it just barely touches the shell plate.

The problem I am having is that when I lower the press the rim of the shell is being torn out of the shell plate - i.e., the case is jammed in the sizing die. I thought perhaps I was not sufficiently lubing the cases, so I have paid special attention to this step using Dillon's Case Lube and carefully following the instructions for its use; I thought I might not have been allowing enough drying time, but am now waiting 5-10 minutes. Although this does not happen 100% of the time - it is at least 50/50.

I am at a complete loss as to what I am doing incorrectly and would greatly appreciate any suggestions. I have tried to read everything I could find on these forums that might be related, but have not found any that describe a similar problem.

[jaredr]

Welcome to the board! withouth knowing anything more about the setup of your toolhead, I would think that case rims being torn out when lowering the toolhead out of the sizing die is an indication of insufficient case lube. i.e. the case is getting wedged in the sizing die (can happen even with a bushing) and the case rim is not strong enough to hold up under the force required to pull the cartridge out.

not sure I understand your reference to "waiting 5-10 minutes" but maybe I've missed something in the Dillon written instructions. I've used Dillon case lube for .223, .308, .300 savage, and .45-70 and have generally used it the same way for all cartridges: throw a bunch of catridges in a plastic bag (garbage can liner for processing .223 in volume), spray dillon lube in very generously, shake them around for a few minutes, then resize (and trim, etc.). when I'm resizing bottleneck cartridges, they are wet to the touch with case lube. once I'm done, i run them through a tumbler again to clean off the lube.

i would suggest you try again a single case at a time, manually applying dillon lube (or imperial if you have any) and then immediately resizing while the case lube is still wet to the touch. I don't think a few minutes will dry out the dillon lube (not sure the lanolin would actually air dry in even a day or two) but I do think the volume of lube used is key. BTW - I'm assuming you've measured properly for the bushing and are not using something radically understized as your neck bushing. Lube requirements would still stand, but if you're using a grossly undersized bushing then case forming will require more effort (and lube becomes even more critical to avoid a stuck case).

good luck!

[HCRRay]

Welcome to the board! withouth knowing anything more about the setup of your toolhead, I would think that case rims being torn out when lowering the toolhead out of the sizing die is an indication of insufficient case lube. i.e. the case is getting wedged in the sizing die (can happen even with a bushing) and the case rim is not strong enough to hold up under the force required to pull the cartridge out.

not sure I understand your reference to "waiting 5-10 minutes" but maybe I've missed something in the Dillon written instructions. I've used Dillon case lube for .223, .308, .300 savage, and .45-70 and have generally used it the same way for all cartridges: throw a bunch of catridges in a plastic bag (garbage can liner for processing .223 in volume), spray dillon lube in very generously, shake them around for a few minutes, then resize (and trim, etc.). when I'm resizing bottleneck cartridges, they are wet to the touch with case lube. once I'm done, i run them through a tumbler again to clean off the lube.

i would suggest you try again a single case at a time, manually applying dillon lube (or imperial if you have any) and then immediately resizing while the case lube is still wet to the touch. I don't think a few minutes will dry out the dillon lube (not sure the lanolin would actually air dry in even a day or two) but I do think the volume of lube used is key. BTW - I'm assuming you've measured properly for the bushing and are not using something radically understized as your neck bushing. Lube requirements would still stand, but if you're using a grossly undersized bushing then case forming will require more effort (and lube becomes even more critical to avoid a stuck case).

good luck!

jaredr,

I appreciate your reply. My reference to waiting 5-10 minutes is to Dillon instruction to wait (actually it indicates 15 minutes) so that the alcohol dries.

With regards to the bushing size: yes, I am certain it is not undersized - in fact, it is probably not sufficiently reduced as I can push the bullet in my hand. I have, however, even tried sizing without the bushing assembly installed and have even then experienced the problem.

As an aside, at this time (i.e., trying to adjust all the dies) I am feeding everything my hand... so a single piece of brass as a time.

Perhaps I am not applying a sufficient amount of lube. I will give your approach a try and let you know the results.

With regards to your first comment: my tool head has the Redding S-Type Bushing Style Full Length Die, the powder measure, powder check system, Redding Competition Seating Die, Redding Taper Crimp Die. Is there additional information that might be helpful?

Thanks.

[dillon]

I'm quite confident that insufficient case lube is the issue. BTW, with the setup that you are using, unless you are shooting a semi-automatic firearm, I doubt there is a need to taper crimp.

[Bear23]

i would load the larger calibers on a single stage press, or just use a neck sizing die.

[HCRRay]

I'm quite confident that insufficient case lube is the issue. BTW, with the setup that you are using, unless you are shooting a semi-automatic firearm, I doubt there is a need to taper crimp.

dillon, sorry for such a delay in replying to your advice. I won't know for certain until I make a run for real, but initially it does appear that soaking brass with the Dillon case lube has resolved the problem.

Thanks for your time!