Gilmore Shroud/Stick Shift

[xsniper]

I have a Gilmore Shroud on my old Bianchi gun and have used the Red Leader Scope. With it's age I am scared to depend on it and I'm thinking of going to a Stick Shift and regular dot scope. Can anyone tell me how the stick shift attaches to the shroud? Are these two parts compatable? I am guessing that this has incrimental adjustments for windage, much the same way PPC revolvers used to have it for elevation?

[speculatorking]

You need to mill off the weaver rail on the shroud. The stick shift then screws down on the shroud.

[ExtremeShot]

I have a Gilmore Shroud on my old Bianchi gun and have used the Red Leader Scope. With it's age I am scared to depend on it and I'm thinking of going to a Stick Shift and regular dot scope. Can anyone tell me how the stick shift attaches to the shroud? Are these two parts compatable? I am guessing that this has incrimental adjustments for windage, much the same way PPC revolvers used to have it for elevation?

Talk to Warren Moore (Toolguy). He is the guy that makes the Stick Shift. His vendor forum here on Benos is "Protocall Design".

Darren

[Action Pistolero]

The Stick Shift will work just fine. As Speculator said, mill off the weaver rail. Leave the shroud on the frame and lock it in the mill vise. Set a level on the rail and make sure it is good and level. This will retain the 1 degree angle made into the shroud. Set te level on the rail so that it is perpendicular (sp?) to the rail. This ensures that the rail will be flat so that there will not be any elevation changes when the Stick Shift is turned in either direction. I have had this go wrong and had to shim one side up. Mill it down just enough to take the rail out.

The older shrouds are longer than the newer ones. I just installed a Stick Shift on an older shroud and had to shorten the rail.

I mill .090 off the bottom of the Stick Shift but I don't go all the way back to the lever. Hopefully you can see that from the attached picture.

Since everything is aluminum this is not a very difficult thing to do. Just go slow and measure twice,

[kimmbeckwith]

If by chance you decide to use a new Gilmore Shroud, let me fill you in. They have changed the hole configuration. I just went through this on my gun and had to have all the old holes welded shut and new ones drilled. I really don't like welding on the dust cover, but I had already had Warren intall the stickshift on my new shroud. Also I had to have some of the shroud milled off because it set back too fare and covered the slide release. So be aware. I talked to Kelly Gilmore and he didn't realize my older shroud was different than the new ones. It has been quit a year for gun problems for me! And thanks Keving again for the help at KC Regionals!!!! Maybe I'll get both guns running before MAY I hope!!!

Kim

[ExtremeShot]

I remember Warren talking (he's a close friend) about a shroud that he made a few years ago. Don't know if he's making them anymore...but if you know Warren, it's probably better than almost anything else out there. I'll point him in the direction of this thread so he can respond.

Darren

[Toolguy]

Hi Xsniper-

It's pretty simple to put a Stick Shift on a shroud. You just mill off the cross cuts on top of the shroud down to the widest part (about 1/8" or so), and drill and tap for the Stick Shift mounting bolts. I recommend leaving a ledge at the front for the mount to butt up against, or milling a little off the bottom of the Stick Shift with a ledge to butt up against the back end of the shroud. This acts as a recoil lug and takes the shear load off the mounting bolts. If you mill the bottom of the Stick Shift, measure how much material is there for the head of the mounting bolts to hold the mount on. You don't want to make that too thin. I would say don't go over .050 deep and you'll be OK. I'm working on a new type of drop on conversion shroud to use with a full length dust cover EAA Witness for Grant & Helen Jeavons that has the Stick Shift built into the shroud that bolts on to the holes already in the frame. Hopefully this will be ready for the 2011 Bianchi Cup.

[Action Pistolero]

Kim,

Your welcome. The shrouds can be finicky at times but I believe that they have them made the way they should be now. I don't use anything else. Been shooting some of the new 115 grainers and WOW!

Warren,

.050 off the bottom? I certainly hope that this doesn't mean that you have changed the thickness of the bottom piece. I had read somewhere that it was safe to take off .100". That's why I only went .090". I believe I read it on the instruction sheet that you used to send with it.

[speculatorking]

At this years Bianchi Cup Warren told me to only mill off .05 max off the bottom. I believe he did say that the thickness of the new run of Stick Shifts were slightly smaller.

[Toolguy]

On this last run, I had someone else make the aluminum parts and they got the mounting holes a little too deep. That's the only thing different than the ones before. So now I have to tell people to be careful in that area. I did first article inspections on nearly everything but I couldn't be there for every single detail.

[Action Pistolero]

See what happens when you rely on someone else to do it. I would say that if you did take too much off you could just use a #8 or 10 screw and then drill the hole big enough to clear the socket head of the screw.

I like to get the Stick Shift as low as I can.

Edited November 3, 2010 by Action Pistolero

[speculatorking]

Thanks for clearing that up Warren. I think I will tell my smith to mill a ledge on the shroud itself instead of the Stick Shift, just to be safe.