Trigger Job Parts List?

[DT Guy]

I'm getting ready to try and run my 75b SA in IDPA, and wondering what trigger parts most of you would consider replacing for a 'competition only' trigger pull.

So far, I've replaced the stock plastic trigger with the CZ Aluminum replacement, and respringing and careful fitting has the trigger at about 4#. Not bad, except I'm used to 1911's with sub 2# pulls, and would like to get close to that in an IDPA-legal (read 'with fpb in place') format.

I'm thinking a flat trigger and competition SA hammer from CZ Custom, but was wondering if anyone is making an upgraded sear (or if it's needed), and what springs/other parts you might suggest?

I tried an SA yesterday that had about a 1-something # pull, broke like glass and moved about 1/16". And now that I know what's possible, of course, I'm going to spend a bunch of money and ruin some parts trying to get there....

Thanks for any help,

Larry

[eerw]

the comp hammer from Angus will go a long way to helping you clean up the trigger.

with the firing pin block..polish that up as best you can..the block, the lever, sides of the lever, inside the slide. you also might try shortening the block spring.

if you haven't already, lighten the trigger return spring, and you can play with length of the hammer spring.

the SAO triggers with overtravel and pretravel adjustment will help shortening the reset. the firing pin block lever will be the limiting factor for reset as the trigger bar needs to come back to pick it up, but you need to keep it in to comply with game rules.

PS: if you still have that factory SAO trigger and no plans for it, I'd be interested in getting it. Please PM

[CeeZer]

I'm in pretty much same boat.

Got 75SA, installed new sights, comp hammer, cleaned up and polished parts, 13# main spring (didn't cut), SAO trigger. Pull is at 3.2#

My next steps will be installing extended firing pin, tuning of main spring and FPB spring.

When you (and I) leave FPB in place, FPB lever can and should be trimmed at its leg that comes in contact with trigger bar. I re-angled mine and removed some metal. The idea is to get firing pin freed up just before hammer falls on it.

Comp hammer is huge improvement over factory 75SA hammer, and SAO trigger is another very big improvement over factory one.

2.5# trigger pull is very doable and that's what I'm aiming for.

[sig2009]

Extended firing pin is a must. I am having ignition problems with my 75b that I just got back from the Custom Shop. Lite primer hits an this is with the 15 lb mainspring.

[CeeZer]

Sig,

There must be something funky with your gun, I have 13# main with original firing pin at this time and had no ignition issues even with CCI primers. You may have extra friction some place. If you can do this, pull hammer out and see if pins are flush, polish sides of the hammer while at it. Smooth, round off and polish hammer strut too. Pull firing pin out, clean pin and its channel and do not oil the pin, pin and channel should be dry.

[eerw]

Sometimes the guns will set up different, maybe because of tolerances, etc.

I have a gun converted to SA and it will run a cut (3 coils) 13# hammer spring with std firing pin and run all primers.

and I have a another DA/SA gun with a cut (1 coil) 15 # hammer spring that needed the ext. firing pin to run CCI magnum primers, but it was OK with WIN/FED primers.

And I have run the gamut, all have been slightly different, with other CZs between 13# and 15# hammer springs. The ext. firing pin is a nice part to have in case you need it.

just need to check your stuff.

Edited October 25, 2010 by eerw