GunCat
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Posts posted by GunCat
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1 hour ago, 0331 said:
I am having an issue with my M3K's bolt locking to the rear while there are still rounds in the mag tube. A round will be released from the mag tube when it occurs. To get the bolt forward I have hit the cartridge release and then the bolt release. This happen three times in my last match. Usually before it occurs I have a few short strokes. Round on the lifter with an empty chamber. The last 200 rounds put threw it I switched to rio game loads hoping that 1280fps would stop the short stroke but it didn't work.
When this happens can you push the bolt release button in at all...or is the bolt release button “locked” until you press the cartridge release?
And is the shotshell that was released from the mag tube stuck about 2/3 of the way back into the receiver?
(Sounds similar to an issue we had with a M3K earlier this year)
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Note the line/rough edge on the end of the shell latch? Polish off that area so it looks more like the 2nd picture
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Pictures from another 1301 thread of that new 2017 receiver.
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On 8/26/2017 at 6:52 PM, Wheelsonly said:
the new 1301s have a different lifter
My sources at Beretta tell me that the new lifter and port shape, along with the serial number location was a factory change based on customer feedback (they listen!). This started with guns made earlier this year.
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On 6/4/2017 at 10:40 PM, IFlynn said:
Anyone any knowledge of why this is happening? I believe it's the trigger return spring being too light, but anyone had this issue before?
Sounds like the new “lighter” trigger return spring is not strong enough to overcome the disconnector engagement (the disconnector keeps the hammer from falling when the action closes with the trigger pulled back).
Put the original return spring back in and see what happens.
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8 hours ago, bwikel said:
The stage in cowboy town required a sling on shotgun last year.
You are right about that....I am either getting old or confusing too many Blue Ridge matches....(my money is on the former, can't have "too many" Blue Ridge matches!!)
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32 minutes ago, CarRacer said:
Will slings be required for shotgun?
That is usually determined when Andy makes the stages descriptions available (he's good about doing that a month or more prior to the match). Last year the shotgun was not slung, but in previous years, Yes, your scattegun needed a sling
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Move the stock bolt from CC to TR to move the butt of the stock down and left.
The drop & cast adjustment of the stock itself is just like moving a rear sight. Move the "rear sight" (ie. your eye/face/ the gunstock) the direction you want the point of impact to move.
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Which ammo are using?
Is the problem with fired rounds only, or also with extracting a live round?
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Based on what I see from other mg tube manufacturer the A400 Extreme and A400 Xplor are NOT the same (and the A400 guns we've worked with were the Extreme model)
Let's take a look at the muzzle end of your gun's magazine tube with the barrel and forearm removed. Is the end of magazine tube threaded on the outside of the tube, or is it closed off with a only a smaller threaded stud for the magazine cap to screw on to?
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We've done some of the usual 3 Gun modifications (open the loading port, etc) on a A400, but for starting out I'd recommend just adding a +4 tube and shooting the gun as is. Its better to be shooting now than thinking about shooting in the future. You'll soon decide if you want to alter your gun or not.
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Does your Montfeltro have the small solid bolt like stud coming out of the end of the mag tube, and that stud fits through a corresponding small hole in the hanger under the barrel? If so, that closed off nature of the mag tube prohibits adding an extension. This is the Montefeltro version I am remembering
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On 7/1/2017 at 4:29 PM, mscott said:
Guessing you are using an MBX comp?
Only thing I could see doing is drill the comp and barrel and insert an aluminum pin. Then find a local weld shop to put a dab of (aluminum) weld over the hole.
Better check, but I'm thinking pin/weld requirements don't specify pin material. You could use a steel pin if sunk below surface and they could get a puddle on top of it.
This.
Blind pin and weld...just need to find a good shop that can weld aluminum.
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Check the action tube nut that holds the forearm on the action tube. If the nut has backed off and allowed the forearm to move forward the action may not be completely closing / going into battery.
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15 minutes ago, jrbet83 said:
The longer spring is actually a lighter spring. Just for an fyi.
Yes, and most guns (that I have examined) with the lifter locking problem have the shorter/stronger spring FWIW
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3 hours ago, Dan Sierpina said:
Replace the carrier spring. #9 on Brownells schematic of M2 Trigger Group.
What he said...
Also...
I'd be curious to know if your current spring is about 1.3'' or 1.6” long (relaxed length). (The new Brownells' M2 spring should be 1.6”)
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You are describing a Benelli M2 with the 21" barrel and +5 mag tube (8+1 capacity).
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31 minutes ago, birdo said:
Unfortunately, I have not had (or taken, more accurately) the time to contact Beretta on this one, so my issue is still present.
Interesting Steve. I will have to check mine when I am home to see if any similar damage is present that may be causing my issue. Thanks!
Open/close the bolt briskly by hand while watching the the lifter move up/down. On the last problem gun the lifter would lock up about every 5-6 cycles if I cycled the bolt hard enough. (never did lock when cycling the bolt gently)
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I've since had in another problem 1301. These picture show some damage to the lifter and release that would allow the lifter to drop too low and let the shell latch to pivot out and lock the lifter. A new lifter and release button fixed the issue.
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9 hours ago, Jpdx9c said:
Mission accomplished with no damage to the tube or the barrel. Unless you count the rust spot I've got to take out now. Oil your stuff well. Lesson learned.
Did you use the CSP tool?
I got into the habit of taking the choke tube out at the end of each day's shooting, wipe it off, add a few drops of lube (CLP, Mobil 1, whatever...) and putting the tube back in. May be overly cautious but I have never had a stuck tube in any gun.
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On 5/3/2017 at 1:29 PM, Jpdx9c said:
That tube specific tool head just one part of a choke removal tool. The other parts consist of a threaded rod and chamber insert that goes through the bore to lock that head into the choke tube. The idea is to keep the tool head from twisting out of the stuck choke tube while you turn it. Without the other parts the tool head will not do much more that another other choke tube wrench.
Here's the whole thing: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/294213/100-straight-csp-stuck-choke-tube-removal-tool-fits-beretta-benelli-except-crio-tubes-12-gauge
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Is the issue the shell not moving enough to allow a shell out of the tube when you load and make ready?
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Rear sight:
Painted white dot < Mid bead < XS sight in a dovetail < 10/22 flip up < Adjustable pistol sight (Bomar or Novak)
Front sight:
Factory bead < HiViz Comp or Tri Comp < Fiber optic pistol sight in dovetail
The XS rear with a HiViz front bead seems to be the most popular set up. Visible and useful without being too obtrusive.
Speed bead on 1301
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
The stock adjustment shim (fits between the stock and receiver) is the same for the 1301, A400, etc. I would expect the Speed Bead mount to be similar.
See part 25