GunCat
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Posts posted by GunCat
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30 minutes ago, IntenseImage said:
Just buy the Carlson's ... Nothing wrong w them at all. Get extended if you don't plan on using a brake, or flush if you plan on putting a clamp on style brake over the barrel
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Carlson choke tubes are good.
Here is another source of Tru-choke tubes: https://trulockchokes.com/. (By looking at that name you can probably figure out where this style of tube got its start)
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This little tip of the shell stop, is it broken off?
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On 2/15/2019 at 1:14 PM, CJW said:
Halo09, I re-used the old recoil spring in the new recoil system.
Kurt, by hammer pin, do you mean the hollow bushing that holds the hammer, lifter, and cartridge drop lever in place and that contains the trigger group pin? I did put that back in correctly with the flange on the side of the cartridge drop.
I did take the trigger group apart to put the guts into an A&S trigger housing. Could there be clearance issues with the new trigger housing?
Thanks!
Any variation in the tolerance of the trigger pin and hammer pin locations could cause the sear to release early or the disconnector to not hold.
Take the trigger group out of the gun. Pull the trigger while restraining the hammer so the hammer goes forward. Now hold the trigger back and manually recock the hammer. Does the disconnector hold the hammer cocked as long as you keep the trigger pulled back? Slowly release the trigger and let it move forward. When the disconnector lets go of the hammer does the sear catch the hammer in the cocked position, or does the hammer go forward as in firing?
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On 2/10/2019 at 2:47 PM, iamspartacus said:
Does anyone know who the MD is this year?
Co-Match Directors Brian Nelson and David Power
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The M2 and Stoeger barrels are not interchangeable.
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52 minutes ago, ChillyB said:
Is it known whether the M2000 barrels are same as M3000 barrel except for the barrel extension?
I'll try to do a comparison of the two when I am in the shop tomorrow.
As far as the 120 degree expansions on your mag tube...If that is a factory design it is recent change, I've not seen that on any previous M3000 tubes. (Thomas Hart at MOA Precision would likely know the details)
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On 9/23/2018 at 5:38 PM, kurtm said:
Barrel mystery solved...this is a M2000 barrel. How do I know? Because we have a M2000 in the shop now with exactly the same lug recess failure. So Kurt, I don't how common this failure is, but we know it happened at least twice.
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1 hour ago, ChillyB said:
Ok, thanks for the clarification.
When I slowly lower the bolt it will not fully roll over to fully locked (dropping the handle from just 1/2" causes it to fully lock). Is that normal? I know to not walk the handle forward during normal operation.
Normal....just like easing the slide forward on a 1911 or slowly closing the bolt on an AR will keep those guns from going fully into battery
The gun's action was design to work at a certain speed so turn loose of the bolt and let the springs do their thing.
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41 minutes ago, HorizonT_s said:
That parts solid. I can try getting a replacement lifter from MW and see if that fixes it.
If the feeding issues coincided with the lifter modification that may be a good plan.
When that U in the lifter is filled in that changes the shell feed angle (raises the shell more) - so the modified end of the lifter is generally bent to accommodate. If you have CRUMS modify the factory lifter he will make the proper adjustments.
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That bent lifter lip...was it bent / curved down ?
With the trigger group installed is the lifter centered in the receiver? (Verify that the lifter has not become bent to one side)
Have you changed the brand of shells you are using? Do your shells have a smooth, nicely rounded crimp - or is the crimp end of the shell slightly bulged like mushroom? (Avoid shells that bulge at the crimp)
Does the extractor cut in the chamber have a sharp edge? (Lightly smooth off the sharp edge if present)
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On 11/29/2018 at 4:35 PM, Nowind0 said:
I have a 1st Gen SBE with a 26" barrel that I picked up at a very reasonable price.
Would this be a good candidate for multi-gun?
If so, does anyone know if a M1 lifter and tube would fit?
Thanks in advance.
I've had a HK imported gun for years that has done stellar service on the range, field, and duck blind.
The SBE should run decent quality 1200 fps 1 1/8oz loads. The SBE lifter is longer than the M2 part, the mag tube extension is the same as the M2. The usual 3 Gun mods (port, extended lifter, oversize controls, etc.) can be done on the SBE if you want to do so.
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Part I have replaced for shooters while out on the range. (Over the several years, some only once in those years, some parts were just dropped or knocked off and lost)
Magazine spring
Magazine follower
Lifter spring
Shell latch
Shell latch spring
Shell latch pin
Firing pin retainer pin
Firing pin spring
Bolt release button
Bolt handle
Front sight bead insert
D clip spring from the trigger group bushing
Trigger group pin
Recoil pad
99.8% of the time a magazine spring and bolt handle will be the most used fix-it in your kit.
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On 9/29/2018 at 12:27 PM, mike cyrwus said:
those clips fly pretty far, eh, Steve?
And they must disintegrate in mid air cause you don't ever find them where they should have landed.
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6 hours ago, sheepdog566 said:
Guess I’m nervous about keeping the 24 and not liking it, but it does feel quicker. I think the shorter barrel would also help in barrel dumps. That is if I take off the plus 2 and run a 10 round tube.
A 10 round magazine is still longer than a 24" barrel, and not a problem...but I'm thinking you will really like the 12 rd capacity (unless your matches include a lot of tight spots to get into/out of)
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Its been a while since I looked inside a left handed VM, but IIRC its just like the left handed Benelli M2.
Take the bolt and trigger group out of the receiver. Look inside the receiver and you should see a slot in the receiver wall near the bottom of the pin. The slot contains a clip that retains the shell latch pin. Remove the clip with a small hooked wire or pin. Push the pin down and out (bent paper clip worked into the bolt raceway)
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8 hours ago, mhuxtable said:
20ga
https://www.mackspw.com/Nordic-MXT-Benelli-20-Ga-Extension-Nut
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7 hours ago, mhuxtable said:
wow didn't know that thanks! Looks like I can find the tube kits and followers but not the nut.
Not much good without the nut
Which coupling nut do you need?
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I don't know what the supply issue "was"...but now Brownells and Midway (only places I checked) have all lengths of tubes in stock.
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At this point its hard to tell without the gun in hand. Try that new trigger group and let us know.
Being a HK M1 the original could have some wear given the guns age. We once had in a HK SBE with enough wear in the aluminum trigger group that the hammer spring cap was occasionally get past the tab on the drop lever. (That gun exhibited A LOT of wear and use all over)
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Can you post a video?
Make sure the gun's chamber is empty. Cycle the bolt to cock the hammer. Load a shell in the mag tube. With the gun pointed in a safe direction (yeah its unloaded, but we aint taking chances) pull the trigger to let the hammer fall and lets see what happens with the cartridge drop lever.
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Kurt,
He mentioned that he can trip the Cartridge Drop Lever manually and shells will exit the tube. If assembled incorrectly (which happens frequently) it would not feed any shells from the tube would it?
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When the hammer falls the hammer spring cap should engage that little protrusion of metal on top of part 19 (Cartridge Drop Lever). This causes the same movement and release of the shell latch that is going on when you manually depress the lever. Perhaps your Cartridge Drop Lever is damaged
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We use the Noveske QD sockets: https://www.noveske.com/products/flush-qd-sling-mount
These require a 1/2" hole. Fitting into the forearm may take some modification.
Benelli M2 follower stuck
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
The follower is starting to jam in the aluminum area where the magazine tube meets the receiver. Likely a bit too much metal was removed from the receiver when the port was opened, and with use more metal has worn away. If not corrected eventually the follower and spring will push into the receiver.
Roth Performance sell a connector and captured follower that solves this problem. Other fixes include installing a set screw through the receiver and magtube to stop the follower before is exits into the receiver.