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Posts posted by GunCat
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Something is amiss. Once the shell clears the front of the latch it should not matter if you push it 1.00” or .001” more. Clearance is clearance.
Does the front end of the shell lifter contact the latch when loading?
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With an empty chamber and bolt closed slide one shell into the tube, making sure the shell rim is forward of the shell latch.
Will the latch move over under its spring pressure (toward the center line of the receiver) and hold that shell in the tube?
Can you move that shell in the magazine tube side to side and get it the slip past the latch and back in to the receiver?
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Was the gun working properly, then started doing this?
Without pushing the drop lever (silver tab) if you cycle the bolt by hand does the shell lifter move up/down as it should to bring a shell up toward the chamber?
Does the bolt lock in to this “halfway forward” position when you fire the last shell in the gun? Or just when cycling by hand?
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On 1/15/2023 at 1:03 PM, boogerhook23 said:
Does anybody know where I can get an m3000 freedom series, 7 shot replacement magazine tube?
I bought mine cheap to compete with, but the dented tube is binding the front two binds, not allowing the follower to feed.
Its a single piece tube and I can't find one.
Have a properly equipped machinist or gunsmith turn a steel plug to just under the mag tube's ID, but larger than the follower's OD. Slightly taper each end of the plug. Clean then oil the inside of your dented mag tube then tap the plug through the tube to remove the dents.
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I've been to several of the Generation 3 Gun matches at Gadsen, you could drive to every stage. I would expect the shotgun match layout to be similar.
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Mossberg Accu-choke tubes (used in the 500,590,930,940) are interchangeable with Browning Invector (but not Invector PLUS) and Win-Choke.
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Drill / tap the top of the receiver to attach one of the DPP mounting plates made for the Marlin 336 lever action rifle or similar. The mounting plate has a flat underside that is not too thick. Here's one example of the mounting plate
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On 7/21/2021 at 3:30 AM, Dean12m said:
Sadly I don’t live in the USA , so I can’t buy one from moa or Midwest gw as they are not allowed to post them . So to find something that can replace it here in oz
Can you source a Benelli M2 or Super Black Eagle inertia spring? That spring will work in your Stoeger M3000.
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If you want to use the original pad trim the lugs so the recoil pad will fit back into the stock, then “grind to fit” the exterior of the pad to match the lines of the (now smaller) stock. Any well equipped gunsmith can handle this, its not too much different that than fitting a new oversize recoil pad.
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I expect C-Rums can help https://c-rums.com/speciality-work
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If you can have the Compass barrel threaded 1/2-28 (which should provide a suitable shoulder) you can use this adapter: https://www.silencershop.com/1-2-28-to-5-8-24-adapter-cnc-warrior-2.html
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Is the magazine tube bushing in place on your gun? It is the first part to go onto the magazine tube when reassembling the recoil spring, bolt, etc - fits between the spring and receiver. I've seen a gun or 2 without the bushing (probably lost in disassemble) and the bolt bounce issue was increased.
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18 hours ago, bmf1419 said:
So I recently picked up a Beretta 1301 tactical Gen 2 and I'm wondering if there is a mechanical issue or if I am just unfamiliar with the mechanics of it. I have yet to shoot it, as all of the ranges are closed in my area, but when I picked it up it function checked just fine. I noticed an issue when I went to load/unload it. I sent the bolt forward with nothing chambered and began feeding the magazine, then racked it and chambered a round. When I went to clear out the magazine I figured that by racking the bolt back it would just feed out all of the ammo in the magazine tube (similar to if you racked a lever action rifle, or decided not to drop a mag in an AR and just ran every round out the ejector).
I noticed that the round would eject without issue, but the following round from the mag tube would not load. I would have to push the little button on the lifter to get it to send another round in the chamber. I had to continually repeat this process to empty my mag tube as it would not automatically load the next round.
I searched on this forum and across google and saw using 2000 grit sandpaper to polish any burrs, but it seemed like people had already put some rounds through the gun by the time they had to do this, and it fixed the problem. Guess Im just trying to find out why it's not cycling rounds from the magazine to the chamber with each rack of the bolt. Does it need to actually fire the round to move another into the chamber? Haven't found a whole lot of answers, just some slightly similar situations. Thanks for any help or info you can provide.
The 1301 only releases a round from the magazine tube when the hammer falls or you manually activate the shell release (button at the center rear of the shell lifter). That is the way it is designed.
As other mentioned you can unload the magazine tube without cycling shells through the chamber by holding down the shell lifter and manipulating the bolt release
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12 hours ago, Andrew863 said:
Figure i'll toss out a little update. So I went to Uncle Lee's AKA buds guns shop and looked at 10 to 20 Benelli's and Stoeger's ........
If you are were at Uncle Lee's in Kentucky you were only one county away from me. I bet we know some of the same people. Give me a shout if you don't get it sorted out and I'll be glad to help.
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If the edge of the extractor cut (leading into the chamber) is sharp you should ever so slightly polish off the sharp edge.
Do not remove a lot metal and expose too much of the shell rim – just round off the sharp edge
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In extreme cases you may have to cut it with an abrasive cut off wheel. Place a thin shim between the crush washer and barrel shoulder to avoid contact the wrong part with the cut off wheel.
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On 4/7/2020 at 3:44 PM, HoneyBadgr said:
Sorry for the necro bump here. BravoKilo, did you ever get your 1301 Comp figured out? I am having similar problems with light loads failing to cycle. I started off with the heavy stuff to break it in and it seems pickier about light loads than I would have expected based off all of the stellar reviews online etc.
Here was my progression:
Federal 1600 fps slugs - 25 or so cycled fine
Rio heavy target 1 1/8oz 1250fps - 125 out of 125 cycled fine
Fiocchi low recoil slug - tried 15 or so and about 10 failed to cycle
Remington STS 1 1/8oz 1150fps - mostly fine - ran 200 or so without memorable problems
Remington Gun Club 1 1/8oz 1150fps - maybe 60 out of 75 attempts failed to cycle a new shell into the chamber after firing - gave up and have the rest of a case left
Winchester AA 1 1/8ox 1200fps - so far 25 out of 25 cycled fine. If the others aren't consistent I'll keep running these at matches until they let me down
I see a trend here. Stick with 1200 fps or faster with 1 1/8 oz. of shot for the best results.
Winchester AA Heavy Target (1200 fps 1 1/8 oz. of shot) is my go to in the M2 and 1301. The 1145 fps load runs most of the time, but with the 1200 fps load ammo related issues are nonexistent.
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7 hours ago, CharlieD said:
Send them an email, but I believe it’s around $200. It’s done properly, and I have a true return to zero when I remove it and remount.
Interesting....Does the machined out area leave 2 post to set the Dot on to, and have a radius on the front of the cut?
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7 hours ago, caz41 said:
Which mount puts the dot lower between the Marlin and the Sumtoy?
The Marlin mount is a fraction lower than the Sumtoy.
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3 hours ago, caz41 said:
Steve do you think that is a superior method to do it versus something similar to speedbead mount?
Yes I do. Take a look at using the Marlin rifle base in this link. We have installed that mount system on several hunting guns.
Burris red dot on a shotgun using a Marlin rifle base
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We have drilled / tapped quite a few guns including M2s for Weaver, Picatinny and custom type optic bases. The rear section of the M2 receiver is thick enough to securely hold most optic mounts.
Sumtoy (and maybe others) make custom bases that set a Fastrife and similar dots lower on the receiver that rail mounting
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Are you continuing to press the bolt release while you insert a shell into the magazine tube? If so you are also pressing the shell latch against the shell that is being inserted causing it to hang as you noted.
There is no need to have to "uncock" the gun before loading. Cycle the bolt to cock the hammer, engage the safety, load the magazine tube. Now press the shell release button (rectangular tab near the rear/center of the loading port which will eject a round from the magazine tube onto the lifter. You can cycle the bolt to put that round into the chamber when you are ready.
Where to buy Versa Max Parts 2023?
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted · Edited by GunCat
Part #8 https://gunrepaircenter.com/versa-max-action-spring-tube-snap-ring/
Part #4 https://gunrepaircenter.com/F401319/
"Gun Repair Center (dot) com" is the parts supplier for newest iteration of Remington/ Rem Arms