Irishlad
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Posts posted by Irishlad
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I've had that problem also with some bullets.
Being 'dumb', I just tried wiping some of it off with my thumb and continue reloading.
Well, about 200 rounds later the ammo looked awfully short.
The lube was collecting in the die and lowering the seating depth.
Good practice for malfunctioning drills.
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Just a IMveryHO, coming from other shooting sports, it's not bad being restrictive on equipment...particulary for new shooters. It can make it easier to bring in a "shooter" because the "discussion" of what is needed is short and sweet.
Then, you can concentrate on the more important aspects of the sport which really matter.
This "rail" fad will pass no doubt as the heavier weight and sharp edges really are not ideal for "practical" guns, on a 1911 anyway. Swat teams and the Marines excluded of course.
Unless, you hang a flashlight on it which is the real "purpose" of a railed gun. Function over form in the more "practical" divisions is wise IMO.Now, if you are holding shoots in the dark, then it serves a function and should be allowed.
Otherwise, if you allow a rail, why not a long dustcover?, 6" bbl, etc, etc and you are back to where you don't want to be as I understand it.
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I still reload shotshells, but no doubt shotshell reloading is down I would guess.
My casual observation is that reloading componants, Lead in particular, has gone up quite a bit in the last several years, but the new shells haven't reflected the cost increases that I've experienced...yet anyway. I'm not sure why unless they "lock in" lead "futures" etc, or we're being "hosed" on the bagged shot.
Just as a useless sidenote: I think powder has really gone up the most in the last 20 years of reloading.
Good calculator that Hank Ellis listed.
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I think a lot depends on how much shooting(reloading) you plan on doing.
I can only comment on the MEC's and a PW. And I only worked the PW several times but didn't own one.
Not knowing what you need I'd recommend a MEC Grabber. For @$300 you get a reliable, very durable machine that you can load( and box) about 450-500 an hour with practice.
About 300-350 an hour if you are leisurely and enjoying "life".
It doesn't auto advance like their 9000 series but I don't see any time savings IMO. But if you like auto advance, go the 9000 route.
The one slap on MEC's, IMO, is the collet resizer. It must be adjusted properly and kept clean or it will cause problems. If you don't need to resize each time, simply remove the "nut" in the back and it won't resize...meaning less effort and faster to load. I use Remington STS hulls about 15 times so I only resize when I buy once fired hulls, not fired out of my gun(O/U). If I wasn't so cheap I'd buy new shells and never resize.
As mentioned by calhunter, use one hull and adjust the machine for it, and then leave it alone.
Good luck
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IMHO, the One Shot lube reduces the "loading" effort about 50%. I wouldn't load without and I'm generous when I apply it.
What would pick up the speed and reduce the effort, I think, is if the primers would seat on the upstroke/handle down.
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I could be wrong on the 3-5 feet, but I would follow whatever instructions on the distance of the bbl to the screens.
Depending on the chrono, I understand it may read the first "pellet" that crosses giving you a higher velocity than advertised. Which, I think, is okay using the new shells as a control with small deviations. Then, when you do your reloads you will have a fair comparison at least.
The speed of the shell, within limits, was less important to me than the variations.
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I've read that you lose about 40-50% of the muzzle velocity at 40 yards, given variables as shot size, etc.
But, you lose 25% of the velocity in the first 20 yards and then the velocity loss tapers off a bit. So 25% of 1250 is a loss of @ 312 fps in a 60 foot distance, which is 5.2 fps "loss" per foot. I would expect the velocity loss to be greater the first several yards...but!
I would guess you have a "loss" of @50 fps standing 15 feet away, instead of 3-5 which is where most chronograhs are I believe, at least the ones I've used.
However, you may be standing too far away for accurate readings of any kind. Were your deviations high?
A couple more feet back and you may have been shooting the screen with the wad.
keep in mind, this is information I've "read".
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My times are not faster.
I'll say my "cycling" rate is the same in ACP, i.e. 100 rounds in 8 minutes. That's using One Shot lube.
But, I can't keep that pace up and more importantly, I have found that speed causes more errors...for me anyway. Meaning priming problems, case not completely in station and mashing the brass, powder flying etc. My machine is old though, but I'm not convinced the auto cycling of the SDB is "up" for that speed for long IMHO.
I've settled down in the 400-500 range.
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National Bullet is in Ohio. They have cast, copper wash, and jacketed I believe.
You can check their prices, but they often have "sales", weekly basis, if you "sign up" with their club, etc.
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If the primer "guys" packaged the primers properly, you wouldn't have to shake or flip them over at all.
I bought some lead free PMC primers once and you just slide the tray off and you are done!
The primers were awful, but the packaging was good.
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How "high" and how "left" is it?
Not all double bbl guns shoot to the same POI by any "stretch".
High is easy to care of...lower the stock.
Left is tougher so it would really have to be "bad" to correct this. Depending on the choke a "gunsmith" that does chokes properly
, can rechoke it to correct the problem...more or less. If it's a full choke, he or she will have more to work with.Different shells can also alter the POI.
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IMHO, I'd pass on unknown mixed hulls for $.02. Probably a lot of "promo" loads that use steel base, thinner plastic, etc. You can buy AA or STS hulls for @ $.04-.05 and load them @15-20 times...real cheap.
More importantly, mixing hulls while reloading is not a good idea since they use different amounts of powder, wads, etc. Although shotgun loading is easy, you should follow the powder's suggested loads for all componants.
Also, it's easier to adjust the machine for one hull.
Good luck.
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I agree JD45 and good point on the 7 1/2's.
If I had to pick one shot size for all around, I'd go with the 7 1/2's. Less pellet count but they retain their "energy" and I believe you need less pellets to break the bird.
I looked at a pattern with an open choke at 40 yards once, it wasn't pretty.
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For under a $1,000 I'd go with either the Remington 1100/1187 or a Beretta variant 391, etc, etc. Probably 30" bbl.
As mentioned, for that money you can buy a very good auto or a "not so great" O/U. Don't be afraid to look at used ones from reputable people or shops...save lots.
I'd buy the "sporting" version which will come with choke tubes. You can buy more tubes as needed, but keep it simple. Use the skeet chokes for skeet or other targets from 25 yards and under. If the gun came with improved cylinder, use those for skeet.
Trap, 16 yard, use modified or improved modified.
Sporting is all over the "board" with chokes. So, IMHO, I'd keep it simple and use improved cylinder for targets under 30 yards. Modified to 40 yards, Full beyond 40 yards. If in doubt, always overchoke. Don't switch much because if you are missing, it probably "ain't the choke".
Unless you listen to some sporting "chap" that insists he can break(crush) 50 yard crossers, all day, with a skeet, IC choke...that's nonsense.I wouldn't bother reloading until you decide to stick with it and shoot a fair amount.
You can buy the "promo" loads like Estate, Remington, Federal, etc in 1 1/8 very cheap right now. Reload later when you want to tailor your loads and shoot enough to warrant it.
Buy a Mec Grabber shotshell reloader if you decide to load later on.
A trained monkey can load shotgun shells...trust me.
You still have to be careful no question.If that club 60 miles away has some instruction in skeet and trap, you would save yourself a lot of time, money and frustration by taking some lessons. Use some of the money saved from not buying all those videos and books! It's my experience that even if they don't offer lessons, there are many shooters that will be glad to help you.
I'd "learn(enjoy)" skeet first, then trap, then sporting. Learn means you have the fundamentals and "expect" to hit many of the targets.
Unlike pistols IM experience,
, good shotguns need little if any gunsmithing as a rule and the brands you should buy are common and many gunsmiths can fix them if needed.Have fun and good luck.
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Yes, good link on the 1911 forum.
I'm one of the "dummies" that asked a question on that thread since I was beginning to acquire some "marks or wear" below the "bowtie" as they call it.
But, not at the bottom of the bbl feet.
A week later, I think, my bbl is gone.
I didn't think the problem was Clays, but just confirming since the timing was suspect. It meters very well in my shotshell reloader.
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No "signs" of over pressure on the spent brass prior to the bbl problem.
My intention, and it was at one point, was to drop 4.1-4.2 grs.
I don't know where that 4.5 came from.
But, I was getting 1 or 2 light loads per 150 loaded which never happened to me before with different powders.
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I've been trying Clays with my 45 200 gr. SWC loads, for no other reason than I use it for shotgun, and noticed I was dropping beyond the maximum load.
I was dropping 4.5 grs instead of the published max of 4.3.
I just cracked my bbl lug(feet) in a 1911 and was wondering if just .2 grains over the max could generate enough pressure/force in a fast powder like Clays to cause this? No doubt the pressure was higher, but it seems it's too close to published data to be a hazard given variances on charges. Perhaps 2-3,000 rounds with clays. 14lb recoil spring, appeared to be a good bbl fit overall but I'm not a gunsmith.
Or "stuff happens" with a bbl with a bit over 30,000 rounds?
Anyway, I'm going back to WST, my machine has more trouble with Clays and never with WST.
Thanks
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I only broke 3 of those bolts.
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I've broken a lot of parts on mine with a lot less rounds through it then what I read here. The primer system is particulary troublesome. I'm going to send it in for a second rebuild soon.
I'm surprised to hear it can stand up to that many.
I have an old one and reading Brian's comment in the store about the SDB, " One last word in the Square Deal's defense, unlike several years ago, it is now a rock-solid machine. ", prompts me to ask whether the new ones are more reliable and durable?
Or, I got a bad one OR I don't know what the heck I am doing!
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Two eyes are better, if you don't have a cross dominance problem, because of depth perception. More important in clay target games with varied speeds, angles, etc, etc. Also, increased peripheral vision is a good thing.
Have him try parking a car, inbetween two parked cars, with one eye closed.
If you have to use one eye for whatever reason, then you can adapt. But, if you don't have to...take the advantaqe.
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I'd bet TGO is a "bargain" for Springfield: sales, image, spokesperson, custom shop, etc.
Or they could do what Kimber does, buy more back page ads using the same boring ads in more boring gun mags.
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Probably any from the "big guns" would be good.
But, I would try George Digweed's videos first since he's the best.
"Move, mount, shoot" is a good one also.
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Trap and skeet clubs have been closed over the years because of lead being shot in wetland area's. Others can use only steel target loads now.
Real or imagined, the "lead" is a problem.
I have heard of designs for trap fields with "nets" that confine the area of shot placement as much as possible. Lead shot(bullet) reclaimation may be the "key" word for continued use of lead projectiles in the future. Very profitable for the club by the way, assuming high volumes of lead anyway!
Easy to do with properly designed, non wetland trap and skeet fields, i.e. flat, dry land, but tougher with sporting clays for example. I would think something could be devised for pistol and rifle since the area is well defined and always "backstopped", unlike shotgun.
I suspect lead shooting indoors will be "toast" someday...primers too!
But, I also said highcap mags would never be back .
Lot of us "shotgunners" shoot pistol too.
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Beretta is a good choice. The Winchester gets good writeups, but no personal experience with them.
Browning would be one to look at also. The XS series, 525 or a used 425, etc.
An adjustable stock on any of them that you can adjust the cast, on the comb anyway, is a good idea. Unless you pick one up with a standard stock and it appears to fit.
Good luck.
Unless, you hang a flashlight on it which is the real "purpose" of a railed gun. Function over form in the more "practical" divisions is wise IMO.
The Vice President Is A Nimrod....
in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum
Posted
The 28 gauge is a "sweet" shotgun. Overall, one of the best gauges around for "hard hits", low recoil and a bit more of a challenge. I use it to hunt quail also.
Unlike large birds, like pheasants, quail fly low, and fast. Often, you might be shooting the bird only 5 or 6 feet off the ground, at least in my experience.