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Irishlad

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Posts posted by Irishlad

  1. TRUBL:

    I'll wager my own 1911 Colt (with a cracked frame I might add), that Colt uses only forged frames for their 1911's. ;) I may try cast next time.

    I've had great usage out of a MIM sear and disconnector, many rounds, but when I replace it soon, I'll go with the "barstock, etc" stuff since the retail cost difference is small for a couple of items.

    If your producing 40,000 guns, the savings is significant with MIM...no doubt.

    They just need to save a bit less and make sure they do it right.

    We agree I believe. B)

  2. As I understand it, frames for Colt, Kimber and S&W are forged...not cast.

    Para uses cast frames.

    No one would have a problem with MIM, if the parts didn't break. :)

    In fact, if Kimber didn't "market" the process, MIM, I don't think most people would even know or care...unless they broke at a greater rate than other parts.

    Kimber stopped using MIM for extractors(internal) and bbl bushings " I read", because they failed too often.

    Now, I only see pictures on the internet of thumb safeties and mag catches snapped...that's an improvement. ;)

  3. We all agreed that if the targets look as huge as a football you will shoot well that day.

    What does it mean when they look like bottle caps? :o

    That means your not going to have a great scoring day, but better than when they look like aspirins. :)

  4. Harmongreer:

    Thanks, I might try that.

    I've shot about 1200 of them so far, but switched back to Winchester for now anyway. I don't like the way my breechface looked to be honest. The spent primer has a 1/2 moon indentation which mirrors the breechface. I can't say the PMC primers caused that, but I don't remember it before...not sure.

    I think the only time I've seen that, was on a shotgun breech using Federal primers and a lot of rounds. I believe Federal uses steel instead of brass for their cups, etc.

    Of course, PMC never returned my e-mail, except the "auto response". :rolleyes:

  5. Precision Bullets seem to emphasize the safety of their bullets, i.e. no lead exposure, while MasterBlaster website is less convincing on this issue.

    Do you think they are the same process, just with different marketing, or different manufacturing and bullets?

    MasterBlaster's pricing on 200 45 SWC for example, is almost .07$ a piece I believe. Precision is probably similiar.

    If you could buy plated bullets for the same or cheaper, would use still use the moly coat? More accurate, better feeding, etc?

    Just trying to explore all options on non-lead bullets...so to speak.

    Thanks.

  6. IMHO, this is worth a "hearty" try at gaining new members and increasing shooting.

    If it fails, i.e. splits existing members into another division, you still have them in the organization and can merge them back into L-10. No doubt, some would become angry, but you know you are going to gain some...lose some/gain some.

    Although a single stack division can be constued as an attempt to "save" a design, in reality it's estimated that 1911 sales are about 80,000 to 100,000 per year, probably over 80% in singlestack 45. That's not a bad "market" to go after since this increasing market with more manufacturers than ever, is for all practical purposes(no pun intended), excluded due to comps, mag capacity, production rules, etc.

    L-10 works. But, if you have a new shooter that wants to win competitions, sport shooting...not practical stuff, after you give him "it's the indian and not the arrow", "spend your money on ammo", etc...are you going to suggest a wide 40 or a singlestack 45?

    I'd go with the SS rules although I would keep it to 45 ACP for major, minor for others and no tungston rods. It doesn't get any simpler than that, no discussions on weighted guns, 40 vs 45, long- short, etc. Buy one in any gunshop, if you don't already have one of the millions that are out there, and go shoot.

    Of course, I'm often wrong. ;)

  7. I'm loading some of the PMC leadfree primers now in 45.

    They are a "tad" tighter(larger) than Winchester primers going through the machine and in the case. They do go off ...that's good.

    But, I'm having trouble getting a 200SWC plated bullet to go the same "speed" using WST. At 4.6 grains(old load with leaded primers) the brass just makes it out of the gun and the recoil is very light. I'm up to the max 5.1gr and recoil is still less than the "old" load. I haven't used a chrono yet, but I don't need to yet.

    From the unburned powder all over the gun, the primer is clearly not burning everything. At least that's my impression.

    Perhaps a faster powder and/or a lighter bullet??

    I'm not much on experimenting in reloading, to be honest, because I just don't care. :lol: Tell me a load that's works and I'll use it. B)

    So, I e-mailed tham and we'll see what they say.

  8. Good post.

    Perceived leads can be subjective, at least how one "see's them".

    It's often the "angle" of the target, to the shooter, that alters the perceived lead. In skeet, stations 1-7, not 8, are all 21 yards to the center stake. If you break the targets at center stake, the "actual distance" is the same, but the perceived leads are different for many. :huh: Station 2 appears to be a "quicker" shot because of how close the target starts out, the angle allows "less" gun movement, but it still ends up at 21 yards at center stake. The same for station 4 which allows more "time" to hit, but only because you have a much wider swing potential, if you choose to use it.

    Good stuff. :D

  9. I switched to copper plated bullets, latex gloves when cleaning the gun, reloading and tumbling the cases outdoors. I supect that cloud of media when you tumble is laden with lead.

    I also stopped shooting indoors, but that doesn't help you. Even if you did everything correctly indoors, what about the guy/girl next to you? But, people still shoot indoors so you could have your blood checked often to see what happens...I'm not a doctor so these are casual comments. ;)

    That link provided has some questionable posts about levels that are okay. There is a lot of information on the internet about lead levels, i.e. state and federal agencies for example.

    Good luck

  10. For an all around gun I would look at the 30-32" bbl models depending on the weight and how it feels to you.

    Unless you have the chance to try a lot of different O/U's I would still stick with the Browning's and Beretta's. The durability of either O/U is not in question and many people feel the reliabiltity of the Browning, for example, is second to none. O/U's are generally reliable anyway, so perhaps it's splitting hairs...don't know.

    If you see one, the Browning 425 is an option to the 525. They feel different to me.

    The Beretta 686 series is a very good buy. The have various models I've seen as low as $1,000-$1500+

    Just IMHO and good luck.

  11. Having the chokes altered should cost about $40-$50 per bbl plus shipping, it might be $150 total.

    Do the wood yourself and you might end up with a great hunting gun for little money.

    Briley does a great job with chokes. Sounds like you have a smart gunsmith.

    If you are looking for a "do all" gun for hunting/ clay targets, then I would check out the newer Beretta's first, just to compare. I've seen models as low as $900- $1200 in that category with choke tubes, different bbl lengths, stocks, etc.

    But, I would call Cole Gunsmiths for an opinion on the Golden/Silver snipe series or anything Beretta for that matter. They have stocks, bbls, guns, etc and many people consider them the "Beretta" people. They also do choke work.

    Good luck

  12. Good decision not to port a target shotgun bbl.

    IMHO, I have both ported and non-ported, it is a questionable modification. They are louder and make the bbl more difficult to clean though. :P

    You see them on a lot of O/U's because the manufacturers decided it was a good option to make "standard"...marketing stuff. Some are now offering "sporting models without porting...ha!

    Even if they did work work, I think they would only help if you were shooting 2 shots at the same target, i.e. staying on the "same flight path". Otherwise, on many doubles you need to change the direction of your swing anyway and a "reduction of muzzle flip" of a 1/32 of an inch is not noticable on moving targets.

  13. International skeet also has doubles on stations 3, 4 and 5 which American does not. Same amount of "shots" for each sport so there are other differences like no "singles" at station 7, etc to make up for the extra doubles.

    Loads are restricted to 24 grams compared to 34 grams for American skeet, although many use lighter loads in American.

    The "toe"(end) of the recoil pad must "touch" the top of your hip bone, so to speak, before the bird emerges within the allowable 0-3 seconds...after you call for the bird of course.

    Women's events are "lightly" attended. They(countries) really need to pick up the pace and get some more women shooting IMHO.

    Although we're doing pretty good. :D

  14. To keep everyone happy, the clubs really need to have different courses, two anyway, for their members. Of course, good target setters are needed in any course. There are some really "stupid" shots out there.

    One course for the competitor and one for the more casual shooter, small gauge, hunter, etc, etc.

    Keep in mind that "The Sporting Clays Magazine" is a publication of the NSCA which is sporting clays arm of the NSSA...American style skeet. Which is the easiest or most boring(IMHO) of all the clay target sports, similiar to 16 yard trap. Both games are a measure of endurance more than skill.

    If sporting were like those sports, no one could afford to shoot it...too many shootoffs. ;)

  15. I've handled a new Baikal but never shot one to be honest, at least not the ones they are selling today.

    They are "crude" by the standards of most O/U's today, but they are priced below what a replacement stock cost for many O/U's. :)

    The "reviews" I have read haven't been bad, for the money, so it might be a bargin. I believe Remington is going to or has started importing a line of shotguns similiar to the Baikal. You might want to check those out for the warranty, etc.

    Make sure parts are available.

    Overall, I think you would be better off in the used market for a Ruger, Browning or Beretta...more money I suspect.

    IMHO, if you wish to spend @$500, I'd also consider an auto like a Remington 1100. Lot's of cheap stocks to fit your wife or can be made to fit, softer recoil, bbl selections, etc.

  16. IMHO, "seeing" the bird means that you "read" the direction, speed and movement of the "target".

    The relationship between the focused(seen) target and the blurred bbl(unseen :) ) "tells" you when to fire.

    If you hit the target, with regularity, you did see the target, swung through and fired according to your "memory" and style. You just happen to 'cover' the target when you fire. I think you will find that increasing difficult to do as the speed, angle and distance of the target increases or varies. Basically, it works for some shots, it doesn't for others. I don't know how you can "blot out" a 50 yard crosser and hit it.

    You could try a higher stock which allows you to "see" it break while still breaking it by "blotting" it out...in case you have to; targets dip, different moves, etc. It won't be the center of pattern, but still breaks.

    Low stocks(field) may have a 50/50 Point of Impact. 50% above the "aim" point and 50% below. Moderate stocks may have a 60/40. As you get into "trap stocks", so to speak, they can be 70/30, 80/20 and up to 100% above the POI.

    IMHO, I would shoot the highest stock that allows you to "see" the target and still "blot it" out if need be or can be depending on the target.

  17. I only have 12's and a 28 in my gun chest. I'm happy.

    If everything in the "clays world" was banned, but the 28...I wouldn't cry.

  18. Yes, you are right...point of impact on a pattern test. 60% above and 40% below.

    Those are rough numbers as you probably know...give or take. 50/50 would be considered "flat", which is fine, and 70/30, 80/20 would be considered high IMHO. But, everyone shoots a bit different and "likes" certain "things".

    No shortage of International(Olympic) trap shooters and medals in Australia. ;)

    The last two olympics and various other gold medals won by an "Aussie" (spelling?) I believe...Michael Diamond.

    If you are shooting bunker(international) style trap then you don't need to look far for what type of guns they use. Probably flat ribbed 30", maybe 32" as the companies have lightened up bbls more and more...personal preference.

    I think the "biggest" difference between a flat ribbed trap gun and a sporting gun will be the stock and, in particular, the drop at heel-comb relationship. Trap guns, generally, are a bit longer and have less drop than the sporting/skeet. If you don't pre-mount that can effect how easy the gun is to bring to the shoulder, etc. Again, that's personal dimensions and preference. I bring that up only to intimate that you may end up having two stocks that fit you well, rather than one that's a bit off for both sports. In the long run, what you will spend for a new Beretta and the cost of shooting clay targets, another stock "later on" is cheap.

    Besides, while you are experimenting with a new gun, stock dimensions, you get a "free pass" for missing targets from your shooting buddies. That always worked for me.

    So, "no worries". B)

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