PB92

Well, here are some parts done up in Robars new NP3 Plus. My E2 hammer, drawbar, Dave Olhasso magwell (one of two designs he made for me), and my adj skeletonized trigger done up on a wire EDM machine. Not polished yet. I like this new NP3 Plus, it applies just a little thicker then the standard NP3.......

Couple years ago when I had a conversation with a Beretta Italy factory gunsmith, he said the LB's need to be kept lubrucated. In another words Beretta's like it wet. Any pistol not just Beretta's will endure increased frictional forces running them with less then required lubricant. You would not start your car with no oil in the oil pan, would you? Thats the idea. As Ryan said, my CCW 92SBC went 150K, when I had it hard chromed I put in a 3rd gen LB, not because it needed it, becuase I wanted it. >Bob

The process continues. My parts are done at Robar, plated in the new NP3 Plus. I'll post a pic of them when I get them, and after I polish them.....

I have also never seen a Beretta keyhole. Two causes are a shot out barrel, or a bullet that is too heavy for the barrels rifling, and cannot be stabilized.

Jim, hope all is well. I sent you a snail mail, to the newer address. Sad to hear you are closing down. We have lotsa work for you. If you read this, call me on the cell.........203-605-2044

I did not get a reply from the snail mail I sent him so far.. The last I actually talked on the phone with him, he told me he was in the process of moving, and setting up his shop. And yes, his cell number went to somebody else. Something had to happen, he closed his shop, shut down his website, shut off his cell phone. Tom Novak did the sorta same thing. The blue splash grips you see on my Open Beretta are his work.

I'd suggest that it might be worthwhile to research it on www.m4carbine.net-look for ToddG posts, or you might want to contact Todd directly at www.pistol-training.com. According to Todd, merely replacing a locking block will work, but unless you take into account the slide wear/eccentric slide wear induced by the previous locking block, your new locking block will have a significantly reduced lifespan. Best, Jon When I took the Beretta Armourers course over 6 years ago, we were told to examine the lugs carefully for cracks and replace as necessary, no fitting required. I have replace 2 locking block on police duty firearms during that time, now they have gone to Glocks. Thats the beauty of combat pistols, you do not need to "fit" new parts. Now, on a very tight pistol like my Open Beretta, the only "fitting" was the slide-to-frame fit where the A2 tool steel inserts are. The LB in it does not need fitting, even though it is super tight.

Without intending to cast aspersions on your experience or the conversations/depth of conversations that you've had with the people you've discussed, here's the information Todd Green posted in www.m4carbine.net some time back: "...note that it may not be as simple as just dropping a new block into the gun. You need to make sure the locking block is mating evenly with both shoulders in the slide. Otherwise, you accellerate wear on the block. That's why you'll see a .mil gun go 10K before it breaks a block, then 5k on the second block, then 2k, then 1k...and people blame the gun. It's not the gun. It's the armorer who is failing to follow proper protocol." I'm not a gunsmith, but this intuitively makes sense to me. You might want to run it specifically by some of the people you've discussed (and I know who David Sams is, but thanks for proffering the Google suggestion). Hey, I'm not the enemy here. Take the information for what it's worth. Best, Jon I understand Jon, its just a discussion. What I'm trying to convey is that a guns slide/frame will develope by operation a "wear signature". Its like if the front end on your car makes your tires wear on the outside edges, then you put a new set of tires on, and you know what happens. The "wear signature" of the frontend will in fact cause the new tires to "wear in" and will have a wear profile just like the old tires. To say "lets fit the new tire to the old frontend and put some wear marks on them", like "fitting a new locking block to an old frame/slide" is not #1- Practicle, #2- Accomplishing anything but labor unessarily. #3- Going to make the new locking block last any longer or shorter. Where these people come up with these concepts/ideas the world may never know. I dont work/shoot/build/customize any other pistol but Beretta's. I dont know a little about every pistol, but a lot about Beretta's. My carry pistol is a 92SBC, built in Beretta Italy in 1982. It has over 150K rounds through it on the orig 1 gen locking block (square corners). I only replaced it with a 3rd gen LB (radiused corners) because I hard chromed the piatol. I put the new LB in, test fired with my carry ammo, and it runs like a dream. That was 3 years ago. One of the requirements of the DoD back in the early 80's for the new military pistols trials was that the pistol OS submitted must be capable of being field stripped, all the parts put into seperate baskets, cleaned, the pistols re-assembled using the parts at random. And work. The Beretta 92 passed that and many more requirements. There were 85 requirements for the XM9 pistol trials. >Bob

Racer27, here you go. Let me know how you make out. http://www.samscustomgunworksusa.com/

Beretta is curently on the 3 gen locking blocks, and thats where it will stay. The current locking block has been engineered as far as it can. A new locking block will wear into the slide (I dont need to say this but I will, providing the slide is NOT mangled/cracked, etc, but we are discussing a usable slide on a working gun here) as any part will when replaced. Been doing it for years, as the DoD has. I have talked with Beretta Italy engineers, Beretta USA engineers (actually face to face with these guys), talked more times then I can count with David Sams (google him, you will find out who he is), David Olhasso, Ernest Langdon......the list goes on.

Exactly, on the Vertec you dont have to file the frames well opening. Its very little but some may not want to take the "file to it".........

Hey Will, currently using an 11 lb. Factory is 13. With the tungsten guide rod the 11 is perfect. With the weight of the slide as it is it cycles just fast enough. Plus I have very light loads just for this gun, ringing steel loads. I can get by with a 10 (the slide comes back a little sharper) but no lower. I'm not looking to beat the gun, thats why I will not shoot major in it, though I could but not for very long. I run a Heitt buffer in it also.

Thanks Will_M Thats the plan. I talked to the custom shop who has my slide/barrel/comp for some recontouring, I'm next in line. This gun is so tight that I can't use my favorite Slide Glide on the rails, have to use Gunbutter...which is a thinner consistency. But I use SG everywhere else.........with the open top slide, the slide cycles wicked fast, its a blast to shoot......

Wow, why blue? just my opinion and hope I dont offend you, My taste would be to put a futted cut on the barrel and use a compensator they used in the movie underworld or another movie with Christian Bale. Cant remember the title but it was bad ass!! They were doing GUN KATA! No offence taken at all my friend. I wanted a color close to the "Beretta blue", which will really highlight the hand polished NP3 parts. I wanted it flashy and to draw attention, plus I didn't want it to look like every other open gun (not that there is anything wrong with them)....this Beretta will be going with me to Beretta USA for some talks........well, the comp on this gun is made specifically for the 92. I dont want a "movie comp" on it. This is used in open class, it's not just show. She's a working gun........

Well here is the frame coated in Cerakote Ridgeway blue. Grips are black carbon fiber, blue carbon fiber with gold Beretta inlay, and my standard blues splash grips. I'm currently doing different grips for it, the slide is out for comp reshaping, and specific internals are being plated with NP3 Plus then hand polished.... These grips are real carbon fiber, not that fake crap.....Its comin boys..........

The magwell you seek can be aquired from David Olhasso. He is the guy who designed the well, and had EGW make it. You will need to replace your hammer spring cap with the one that comes with the magwell. Be advised that the magwell was designed and spec'd out for the Vertec with its verticle grip profile. If you want to put the well on a 92FS, the guns frame well will need to be taken down to match the magwell's profile, otherwise you will have a "lip" between the well and the frames well opening.

Been smithing Beretta's for almost 20 years, and shooting them in competition. Never had to "fit" a new locking block to a used slide.

I found a note from Jim, and his new address. I'm sending him a letter today to see how he is doing.....and whats up... >Bob

I have some of Jims grips on my Limited Beretta 90-Two .40. Does great work. Last I heard he moved, was starting to setup shop, then went silent. I canr get a hold of him, as i need to because I have more work for him. Well, called Jim today, they must have turned off his cell phone, cause they issued his number to somebody else. Or, maybe it was Jim but he didn't want to be found.

I have some of Jims grips on my Limited Beretta 90-Two .40. Does great work. Last I heard he moved, was starting to setup shop, then went silent. I canr get a hold of him, as i need to because I have more work for him.

Mag bodies can be welded together for a limited Beretta. Many shops do it.

The frame will be here in about a week. I want it done right, in no hurry actually. Been working on some other stuff.... 40 Limited Beretta. Putting some "bushings" in the Open Beretta for the trigger lateral movement, and also for the hammer to reduce lateral movement. I dont need to, but I like the gun tight. The shiney comp is aluminum. On Beretta's you dont want too much weight hanging on the front of the barrel.

Actually, it should be the second if you saw Dave Olhasso's. I believe he sold his open Beretta. So I may be the lone ranger on this one. These are lightning fast steel guns......

I thought the Brig slide wasn't coming back? Beretta USA approached me on a gun build, I spec'd it out, and my specs called for a Brig slide. BUSA has the final word though, but remember, anything is possible.

DyNo, the easiest way is to put in a "D" model spring, it can be ordered from Dave Olhasso. www.olhasso.com I would suggest you just contact Dave as there are a few ways to lighten and smooth the trigger group up. USMC1974, firstly, SEMPER FI my brother, kilo 3/3 here. The black grips you see are real carbon fiber (CF), from Carbon Creations. I have blue CF grips from them also. They are slightly thinner then the factory plastic grips. They really grip well, much better then the factory grips. The blue grips with the splash design were made by Tom Novak, not long before he closed his shop. I actually had another order for grips but he closed. I am currently looking for a grip man to make some more custom comp grips. The magwell also came from Dave Olhasso. Flyin40, will do. Next few weeks probably.