HarryO45

Embarrassed... I reinstalled and ensured it was pushed in...now it seems to be working. I knew it was oriented correctly because it is an A1 type (bear paw) ...I told you I am "Old School". I have no clue how I had installed two separate FAs and they stayed in and rotated without falling out...but I had. I am still a little puzzled. I guess if you are at a three gun match and you see a guy with a retro / A1 Foward Assist on his otherwise modern rifle you can presume it is me. Thanks to all...especially you and Openclassterror!

As far as getting rid of the FA. I understand why you guys don't want them. Respect. I don't use it during a malfunction. I shoot three gun more as a fun hobby. I am not competitive. I am an Old Soldier...I use my FA much like some do a press check with a pistol. It especially gives me comfort when loading at night and I use it in lulls of firing. Maybe a nervous tick kinda thing. I don't even think about it I just do it. You might not have my frame of reference to understand but it gives me comfort.

thanks for answering the question. But I am not sure I understand completely...your saying the roll pin hole on the upper is the only thing holding the FA from rotating...and that the "flat" that you describe is that on the FA Assembly? When I bought the Upper Reciever it was new and had the FA installed. I removed the FA to paint. Is it possible I could have screwed it up myself? I did not think to check its function prior to disassembly. Does anyone know the reputation of Aero for customer service? A contact?

I just finished a build and I am very impressed with my Stretch 16... I am not a shooter who can feel many subtle differences in some of the enhancements i have made on some of my AR's. In the case of this last rifle, I can tell a difference. I am shooting better than ever.

I have built my third AR and I have a unique problem (unique for me anyway). I have a Aero Upper and I have installed two different Foward Assists. They both rotate. This means that the actuating arm of the Foward Assist is not pushing against the Bolt Carrier Serrations when it is rotated in some positions. I am hoping that someone will understand what I am trying to communicate, and can tell me a solution. Hopefully one that does not require replacing the Entire Upper Receiver. Thanks in advance

I probably have more money than sense... And five years ago I would have laughed at anyone going the AR pistol route. But recently I handled an AR pistol with a KAK pistol tube and SIG Brace - it let me, in an unconventional fashion, get good shots (use your imigination) not as comfortable as a full size stock but with some practice it maybe useful in certain situations. So I am going for it...yes you are right an SBR is likely in my future. Thanks for your input. Right now I am leaning towards the 10.5 inch barrel and the FERFANS CRD. What do you think?

Are you saying that a brake/comp will make it louder than nothing at all? I have a Bushmaster in 16" and its proprietary brake/comp is much noisier than the 14.5 M4 that was issued.

I don't like taxes or paperwork.I know it is gonna be loud. But what I was hoping for are ideas that will lead me in the right direction to enhance my prioritized criteria.

I am assembling an AR Pistol in 5.56mm. I want the barrel to be between 10 and 14 inches long. The pistol will be used to plink, small varmints, and be part of my self defense options. Most shooting within 100 yards. I often fire from the prone and near and around other shooters. I feel like I know what I want in everything minus the barrel, but I am a little intimidated by all the new technology of barrel length and muzzle brakes, CRDs, ect. I want to be able to make fast follow up shots but it seems (based on some of my research) that there is a delicate balance with muzzle enhancements that give and take: Noise/Loud, Concussion (sand spraying everywhere / eyes and face when firing prone or near structure), the Weight of Brake (balance), Suppressor QC, and Cost. If I where to prioritize my criteria it would be: follow up shots, noise, concussion, balance/weight, cost, ability for a quick connect for suppressor (maybe one day). I know that I am asking this question in the Rifle Sub Forum, but I figured that many of you have experience with SBRs and I envision me wanting to duplicate the characteristics of my pistol closer an SBR over a 7.5 barreled AR pistol. I also value competitive shooters opinions over many others. So what barrel length and Muzzle "enhancement" would you consider? Is there something else I should consider? Thanks in advance.

I have a 11-87 in 20ga. and a 1100 in 12ga. I use the 1100 (12) in three gun, and although i installed a easy load gate - it can still be difficult to reload...i am sure i need a lot more practice. That said - In the three gun matches (that i shoot) there is a lot more time reloading than shooting - just a consideration. But i love my Remingtons - easy to mod. i think they (Remy) are heavier than some other models out there. But they go bang almost all the time...keep the rings clean - lubed and fresh. two cents from a rookie

So - Jobob You believe that the Tightly wrapped ends of the recoil springs are not necessary? And I am asking a stupid question?

RANGE REPORT I just got back from the range. I fired about 120 rds. Various ammo to include WWB, Wolf, Atlanta Arms (AMU), and some surplus “I have no idea” ammo. I used six different magazines, and never loaded any with more than four rounds. I rotated the magazines. I had zero malfunctions. The bolt locked back every time the magazine went dry. It seems that the fancy buffer will allow the magazine to lock back. To refresh everyone’s memory. I installed the Endine and immediately noticed that the bolt would not always lock back on an empty magazine. I also had difficulty locking the bolt back while manually pulling the charging handle back and pushing/holding the bolt release. The only corrective action that I did was to cut the Recoil Spring back about one and a half inches. I reinstalled the Recoil Spring sliding the cut end of the spring in the butt of the stock; allowing the virgin end to be installed over the Endine. Immediately I noticed that manually locking the bolt to the rear was easy. I suspected that the bolt would now lock to the rear but was worried that the Bushmaster would now malfunction during firing. It did just fine. I shot it fast and slow…I changed magazines as quickly as possible and kept firing until it got hot. Not one malfunction. In case you forgot, as mentioned earlier, I do believe that the spring was a “Shorter M4 style Recoil Spring” / it came with the collapsible Rock River stock and short buffer. It was the same length as the one that came with the Endine. Some folks thought that I had a rifle recoil spring – but I confirmed that to be incorrect. I had tried both M4 springs; each malfunctioned equally. I now believe that the shorter Recoil Springs are still too long for the Endine - to lock a bolt on an empty magazine. I am much happier – But now I have a new fear. Since I cut one of the tightly wrapped ends of the recoil spring will it lose its strength? Or somehow lose its shape and expand in the tube - later causing the buffer to jam in the stock tube? Does this make sense? Should I worry? Does any one know of a manufacture /or retailer that sells a shorter spring (with both ends wrapped tightly)? Or a spring wire that is thinner…am I crazy to worry about this????

Wow, thanks for all the nice comments. My head is spinning. Lots more to consider. Ken, I looked at the JP Low Mass Carrier. Q: do I need to replace the Bolt if I go low mass? Also it seems that Low Mass also means – no Forward Assist – yes or no? I’m kinda in an old habit of always pushing the assist forward when I go hot…not that I have really ever needed to…not often, but it is an old friend – a habit that makes me feel secure. That said, if it helps steady the rifle on follow up shots then maybe an old dog will learn a new trick. Could I later install the Low Mass on a new AR (built just for sport shooting)…then I would return the original bushy to its original configuration. I will consider the low mass – sounds like a good mod. Is the bolt carrier interchangeable and something I can install myself…is headspace an issue? On the Browning M2 I know we had to set the headspace after cleaning…I found those gauges the other day. I always heard from the armorers that interchanging bolts between M16s was a huge No No. Does changing the carrier affect that? My front sight (military type) – I like the utility and the fact that it is almost indestructible. Don’t think I want to remove the front sight. So the adjustable gas block is not something I want. Maybe too complex for me. Not on this rifle. The Rolling Thunder Titan muzzle break I tried to find it on the net – who makes it? Is it really that much better than my Bushmaster MiniY comp? I bought my Bushmaster during the Ban, so I don’t know if it is welded/pinned or just screwed on? No bayonet lug either. Not that I want one, and with the miniY – it would not work anyway. GentlemanJim…Interesting, which end did you mill back…and how much? Fastshooter03: I haven’t given up on the endine…my friend is not in a hurry to get it back, and I have time to experiment. I bought the bushy new. But it had a “lookalike colapsable stock”…It now has a collapable. Don’t remember if I replaced the spring - that might be the problem. But I do know that I have two different buffers one rifle and the short M4 type (installed). So my guess is that i did get one with the new collapsable stock. I did cut the recoil spring. About an inch shorter. When I pull the bolt back it locks back much easier on a empty mag – but yet to fire it. So who knows maybe it will now function. I can’t test fire it until next week. I also noticed when dry firing, that when I pulled the charging handle back that the top of the collapsible stock was interfering with the pulling back of the charging handle making it even more difficult to lock the bolt to the rear. Of course the stock only interferes when partially collapsed, but that is unacceptable. I took a file and relieved the interfering portion of the stock (top)…now the stock can be closed all the way and using charging handle is not a prob. Combined with the now shorter spring it easier to lock bolt back when using charging handle. I am excited and hope that both the filing and the shorter spring might close this post. You asked how many rounds through the gas tube – the gun has less than 4K through it – lots of different ammo. Not prone to malfunction. BTW – what does “POF” mean? Todd, by the time you read this you will know that I did not shoot tonight. My job is killing me. No time for fun. I am sure you did well. I want to see you dust off the Single Stack – I always learn a lot. I will be happy to bring the rifle in next Tuesday. And the Spring that my friend gave me. BTW – I measured both before I cut and they were both the same length. I cut my old spring. Mike if you read this – I did not cut the spring that came with the Endine. I did replace the trigger springs with some reduced weight springs I found in Brownells – they seemed to reduce the trigger weight. But I think there is still lots of room for improvement…maybe a drop in is next – even before I look at the low mass carriers…comment? One last thought, if I decide to keep the Endine – what is a fair price to pay for it – I was thinking about ten bucks? It has been a lot trouble. HaHa

I have read several threads on this forum. and realize that the 16" gun is not the best gun for "action shooting" / USPSA 3 Gun. I understand the reasons why -I GOT IT - my current firearm platform is not ideal for this sport. I have also on this forum read several comments to beginners - Shoot what you got! Until I win the lottery...I will not be able to spend two grand + on a AR "Firearm" that would make me even remotely competitive. I will never win a 3 gun championship...I am too slow / old. I do this sport for fun, and a desire to learn to be a better shooter. I also like modifying "firearms". I have done a lot to my 1911 and Remy shotgun. I am happy with those mods. Lots of trial and error, and lots of helpful comments from forums. Sometimes I find that the first comments are not the best advice. I like to hear other opinions as well. I respect all. Of those three types of firearms (1911/Remy/AR) I have shot more ammo out of an M16 / CAR15 / M4 / AR 15 than those other two combined. But I am the least experienced at understanding the AR system and which mods are best for improving its original design. I am still interested in the possibility of making my already paid for - Bushmaster - with M4 style collapsible stock, as good as it can be…despite its limitations. I would be happy with the Endine if it would allow for the bolt to stay open on an empty mag. I do believe when installed it improves controlability. Are there considerations – to remedy the 70% malfunctioning “bolt closing on an empty mag”? Should I bother messing with this Endine fancy buffer – or is it too problematic? Would I be better off with a standard buffer? And if so, is there a specific spring weight /type more ideal than the factory spring? I agree reliability is important - even though i have been schooled by many (even some M and GMs) that it is best never to shoot a mag empty. But if I have to I want te bolt to stay open. The only malfunction that I have since installing the Endine is the Bolt is not staying open on an empty mag. Ammo – I am shooting Atlanta Arms Ammo – When I picked it up from the Barn – I was told that it is the same specs as that sold to the AMU. I think the ammo is good. Besides my firearm does not have a history malfunctioning – it even shoots Wolf – no prob. ( Yes, I avoid Wolf ammo now – I say that not wanting to stir that hornets nest). Thanks for the info Jobob. Your comments, if i understand them correctly are: it is possible to achieve both an advantage and reliability from the "fancy buffer". So maybe there is hope for improvement - when modifing the buffer. Against my better judgment…I must say the following: As far as calling a firearm a weapon. I am sorry I did so on this forum, and will respect the "sports" desire to avoid calling a firearm a weapon. I understand the reasons for that – PC. But I disagree with above comment about how “only criminals use weapons”. Our Second Amendment rights are protected by a whole bunch of professionals who are not criminals and use weapons to do so. Your friend, Harry

So are you suggesting that i return the old Buffer and not try to improve the capabilities of my weapon? Boring

A friend of mine let me "try out" an "extra" fancy buffer. I have no idea what model - it says "Endine" - it seems to have a springloaded compression base. I have an M4 Bushmaster with a Rock River collapsible stock. It has the mini y-comp (don't RO too close to the sides). After install - it does seem to have less felt recoil...not much, but i seem to get quicker shots off. Could be my imagination. I have a new optic that might be helping with my ability to make follow up shots>Before the install the weapon operated flawlessly, but now at least 70% of the time the bolt will not lock back after the last round - no other malfunctions. From reading around it sounds like most likely a too long recoil spring. Anyway - i was thinking that before i spend a lot of time trouble shooting a recoil buffer that i really don't know anything about - maybe better to start from scratch. 1 - Does anyone think that any of the high end buffers really help enhance controllability of a 16" system (standard gas blowback setup)? 2- and if so which is best - under $120 bucks 3- If not, then what are the different recoil springs available and is their a specific brand / spring weight / setup? I am much more familiar with the 1911 setup - and I KNOW it makes a difference in 1911 operation...is an 16" AR as finicky / sensitive? 4- BTW, I want my bolt to lock 100% of the time; after last round in mag is fired...Ideas? Thanks

My plunger tube is OK. I am considering replacing it with a "upgrade" if in fact it is only a good idea (a true upgrade). The idea of a screw on / or bolt on tube is that it is stronger than a "crimped on" tube. I do know that screws are stronger than a crimp. I have a gun that is as reliable as anyones, and i want to refinnish it, so if a bolt on plunger tube is better then a crimped one - then i will do it now. If you do not know or have experiance with a bolt on tube then i don't want your advice. Please, does anyone know if a bolt on has an advantage or a disadvantage. are they problematic? I have already figuared out that a bolt on can be later replaced with a stake-on if I decide to return to original...downside...two tapped holes under the grip panels. I would have to replace the grips as well - as i will have to cut relief in the grip (thumb safety side) to accomodate the bolt on plunger. I read a couple of posts elsewhere where people made quotes "all carry guns should only have bolt on plunger tubes" ... was hoping to get some pro's and con's from those with experiance with the bolt on (not from folks who do not). Caspian makes an intregal tube, but i don't want to buy a new frame. A bolt on seems like a good idea, but it does not seem to be popular...just wondering why? I trust this forum more than others - If properly installed is the bolt on a good idea?

Based on your earlier email about your "roulette strategy after playing @ Caesars Palace in Vegas a few years ago" (posted earlier today). Basically, it's very simple. I have tried it out on three accident computer models, and i have never lost both my eyes. This is how it works. You start off by injuring one eye. then it is very unlikely that you will lose two eyes - at least in the same day...statistically it is like winning the lottery twice in one minute. if you do injure an eye you have a 52.64% chance of losing or injuring your same eye - so at least you can still see. The odds of losing both eyes in separate accidents are 0.0269%. I think you understand that not wearing safety glasses is like betting at Vegas - no sense in taking a chance as it is rare that anything good will happen (I lost the cost of a Glock last time i went to Vegas). Just funning...I just read your Vegas post and found it interesting.

1911 Question: Is a bolt on plunger tube a good idea? Situation: I shoot Single Stack IPSC, so it needs to be legal. My interpretation of the rules leads me to believe that it is a legal modification – what do you think? I want my gun to more reliable in tuff conditions, not less reliable. I am planning to use a competent gunsmith to install – if it makes sense to install (based on your feed back – not his: $$$). I am getting my gun refinished after the install. Once installed (I have a Kimber) can I go back to a standard plug later? – it looks like I can – if I use the EGW. Is there a better tube manufacture than EGW? Thanks for your help in advance.

Thanks for all the great help. I would like to add a few thoughts on my intended Flattening and serration project. Number One: I shoot “Single Stack” in IPSC, so I will not modify the pistol outside of that class of pistol. Number Two: I want my pistol to have every functional advantage possible (believe me – I need that – I am not very good, and I do not have a lot of time to practice). I have handled several weapons with serrated barrels and slides and I truly believe when firing in sun light the serration helps the shooter acquire targets. Even my shotgun has serrations down the rib. Number Three: Traditional. I like the “Classic Look” of the 1911, and do not want to stray too far from the original look. And yes my KImber has front cocking serrations on the slide, and I struggled with that – but I am glad that I have them as I use the serrations when I “Press Check”. When I was a kid, my uncle let me hold my first 1911; I don’t remember how old I was, but I remember that pistol. It was a beautiful Gold Cup, and it had a Flat-Top and thin serrations all the way down the slide. So to me, it is “traditional and nostalgic” to have the Flat Top and Serrations. z40apc, Blindhogg was a great source - wow that guy does a great job illustrating his craft. Sparky, Thanks for the info on “Rich” @ www.canyoncreekcustom.com. Wow, he has a wonderful website. He sure looks like an excellent craftsman. The “Snake Belly” is surely a distinctive look. But, I have handled a 1911 with similar perpendicular cuts across the top of the slide and it is not for me. It almost seemed to collect light in each of the groves and distracted my eye (it was a stainless gun and mine is black, so maybe it would not be so bad). That said; I think that lines that are parallel with the barrel are the best for me. Besides…my traditional look “requirement” would be violated (my uncles gun). North, the picture that you have attached gives me an excellent reference / example of “flatten and stopping short of the front sight”. Yes, that is a great help. It does not look too radical. I am wondering if the rear sight would be a problem or have to be cut similarly? Bob, I could not see your attached pictures. I went to your website and I was unable to find the picture or example of flattening. Do you have an alternative method of showing me the example? Finally, thank you for all the help. I would like to encourage more help/info and advice. It is great to learn from the experts.

Thanks for the info. What you say makes sense. I love the point of aim of the pistol, would really not want to mess with new sights. I think i understand what you mean about "stopping just shy of the front sight and leave the front sight alone". Do you know where i can see that in application...a picture???? Website maybe. Yes agree about a quality smith...I will spare no expense. I love this gun.

I have finally got my Kimber where i want it - minus Flattening And Serrating the Top of Slide to 30 or 40 LPI - and of course refinnnishing. Done most of it myself. But I dont dare try the Flatten And Serrate Top Of Slide to 40 LPI. Besides refinnishing; should i be aware of anything else when shopping for a smith? Can flattening change the performance of the pistol? Should i not flatten and just serrate? I like the flat look, but it is a shooter - it is 100% reliable ~ It must stay that way. I assume that the slide will be lighter...is that an issue? Performance? I am seeing prices between $90-$150 - that about right? Which is better 30 or 40 lpi? What am i missing? Make me smart ~ Please. By the way, My Kimber frame and S&A Magwell don't like cold blue...Slide and other small parts darken right away...i always heat the parts...hot hot hot...what's up with that? Edit/Delete Message

Opps sorry - I said the Close target ranges were 15 to 25 yards meant to say five to fifteen yards- maybe a little farther but not much.

First of all – I do realize that the “Choke Topic” on this and other forums is “wore out”…but I believe after searching this and other sites that this is a unique question. I also want to say that I am not experienced with a shotgun – I am new to three gun – and have only done it once – with a borrowed shotgun. I liked the sport and building my 1100 now! This is my question…Could a screwed in Rifled Choke System be used effectively in all Three Gun shotgun scenarios? Some background and thoughts I decided to go with a 21 “deer barrel” with iron sights (it has remchoke). I do not want to “have to” change chokes between events. The three gun event that I attended required slug shots out to at least 55 – 70 yards. Lots of misses by experienced “Three Gunners” – they were blaming their chokes. These are my observations and thoughts: 1. A rifled choke is the best choke to have for longer range targets where slugs are required. 2. The majority of the other targets in the events stages requiring shotgun were “close in targets” within 15-25 yards (most people using light bird shot). So if the targets are that close is a rifled choke going to mess up the performance of the bird shots pattern? I guess this is really my main question. 3. Will bird shot fired through a rifled choke deform the birdshot to the point that it will fly erratically? Will wad protect the shot from the rifling? 4. How does rifling affect a sabot slug (not that I plan to use them – just thought I would throw that in the mix)? Has anyone ever tried the rifled slug choke as an all purpose choke? What are your experiences?