charliez

That's actually quite reasonable at $250.- for the pistol calibers and they have one for my 650! Here's the link: http://www.gsiinternational.com/pages/3/pa...h=1129221376194 The rotary collator is not included though (it's coming soon), so would be interesting what the total cost would be compared to bulletfeeder.com The strange thing is how the European site has it for sale before it is available in the US by GSI itself???

Now that I have my pistol reloads squared away with my Dillon 650 I'm starting my rifle handloads. First one up is my 223 for shooting in an AR-15 with an 18" SS SPR barrel with 1x7 twist I have 3 weights of Sierra MatcKing bullets (69, 77, and 90), and also Sierra GameKing 55gr HPBT. I'm looking for: 1. OAL 2. Varget powder weight Hodgdon's 2006 manual does _not_ provide the data for Sierra Matchking 90gr, nor GameKing 55gr HPBT. That is what I'm mostly interested in. Hodgdon's 2006 manual provides the data for 69, and 77. So I'm good with that already, but would like to hear what others have used. (I also have a DPMS 24" SS varminter bull barrel with 1x8 twist) Thanks!

No, that didn't work. The "Trickle" button is for manually turning the trickler. I already know that. I need to "Tune" the trickler slower ... (i.e. _not_ "Turn") hehe. Anybody know?

LOL ... what's a manual?

My powder dispenser goes over the specified charge by .2 grains about 40% of the time. Drives me nuts as I end up measuring out 14 rounds to get 10 good rounds. I know there are ways to tune the trickler speed, but RCBS support has been unresponsive. Is there a known set of instructions? Thanks!

I'm wondering what primer brands you prefer for 9, 40, and 45. I've been using Winchester primers, the first one I've used and it seems to work well. The packaging is just perfect, all of them have the bottoms up (i.e. anvil facing down) so all I have to do is flip them once (place priming tray on top and flip) to they're right side up. I've had to use CCI 300 large pistol primers, and there are usually 5-8 primers that are not right side up, so I have to do a little more work. Federal primers are packaged sideways, so they require most work to get right side up. Aside from packaging what are other differences between them? Would anything affect reliability, accuracy, shelf life, etc.? Thanks!

Thanks for the link. I've placed an order.

Where do you get the "U" dies? I've not seen them on my regular stores (Midway, etc.).

Many thanks that helps! Off to the search button I go to find more on brass discussions.

I've seen it mentioned here several times. Is it good/bad for reloading? How can you tell the difference between a case that has Glock bulge vs. excessive pressure bulge? Is there a cure for the Glock bulge? Would it look normal after being shot out of a non-Glock pistol? Thanks!

Thanks all!

AFAIK: - Roll crimp actually curves the brass inward towards the bullet. - Taper crimp angles the brass inward - But what is a Factory crimp? I know folks favor the Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) why? I have the Lee FCD too as that's what came when I got my die set.

I don't mind a Rube Goldberg machine, so long as it works

Oy vey ... EricW, you've just made me put 3 Redding dies in my shopping basket (9, 40, 45)

I must say I'm also a very satisfied customer XL650 press & casefeeder (9, 40, and 45 also now). Brian's site is very helpful, and the "as it should be" options are right on! Brian took the time to answer emails, and phone calls to configure my order. The small spare parts kit is also a must! I've already mashed up a couple of small parts due to my own ignorance that kit saved at least 2 weeks of waiting if I had to order individually. Being a newbie, I couldn't figure heads/tails out on the Dillon site for what I should order. Shipping was free too as my order was above the $400.- minimum. I've since gone back and ordered a few more items (another deluxe quick change kit for 45ACP conversion, primer quick change, large case plate, dust cover, extra toolhead stand, extra primer pickup tubes. PS. The Frankford Arsenal Vibra-Prime primer tube filler is a nice inexpensive way to load primers. Caveat is only their small primer tube works. Their large primer tube is too tight for large primers (go figure ...), so I purchased the extra Dillon primer pickup tubes and used those (twisted off the plastic mouth from Frankford's tube and put it on Dillon's tubes). The large primer tube now works fantastic! PPS. I stopped using the powder check station and replaced that with RCBS's Lock-out die. I found that at times, during my setup phase I'd miss loading powder as I was manipulating the press up/down and had the cam advance, and then ignored the powder check buzz ... and ended up with a squib load. With the RCBS Lock-out die, the press is simply stopped in its track if there is no powder, or too much powder. No more squib loads for me now.

I'd say that would be the ideal case, but would require quite a bit of CNC/machining change, hence less likely chance of happening ... <imho> BTW. Dillon is sending me the alignment tool (no charge! thanks guys!) to get the press head alignment fixed.

The case feeding problem got fixed with a little lube on the pivoting case mover. One drop at the top surface, one drop at the bottom surface. The primer punch got fixed with as you suggested with an open 9/16 wrench. Raise the platform, remove the primer advance cam (plastic composite on the right front side of the press body). I can see that it doesn't need to be super tight, just tight enough to hold on. I think it might be worth for Dillon to consider fixing that design with a BNC connector type fastener for quick on/off finger mounting of the punch without dramatically changing the design of the press. Thanks!

Anybody know when bulletfeeder.com will start shipping?

Eeek, good advice! Many thanks for the warning.

The primers are CCI 300 large pistol primers. The cases are US commercial cases (Federal, Winchester). I rectify the protruding primers by reseating them (softly, gingerly as they are loaded ammo by that time). By "table" I meant a solid woodworking bench ... but yeah, it needs more weight on it to stop from skittering sideways Will be sending mail for the alignment tools. Thanks!

I've had my 650 press now for just about 3 weeks. I love it, but there are a few things I uh "dislike" about it Before I call the design "lacking" I thought I'd ask here and see if it's just me being a bonehead first ... 1. Caliber conversion from 9mm/40S&W to 45ACP. This requires changing the primer punch from small to large. How the heck do you folks do it? There is no room to insert a 9/16" wrench under there! Space is so tight. I had to remove the press head (the entire assembly the shellplate is screwed on) to get access to the primer punch nut. Then of course as the assembly was lifted out, the spring that is wound around the press cylinder went schwinggggg to neverland (Brian, thanks for including the spare parts kit!), putting that spring back together was another ordeal. Is there a simpler way to replace the primer punch? RCBS, and Hornady have very straight forward ways of changing it. 2. The casefeeder, case pivot, the thing that takes the case from the casefeeder tube and moves/slides/feeds it to the shell plate returns by spring pressure. This mechanism's design should instead return by a positive cam action as it frequently gets stuck due to the spring pressure not sufficient to bring it back in my case (45ACP). For the 45ACP caliber conversion for some reason it gets stuck 1/3 of the time (1 stuck once very 3 cases) and I have to manually push the case pivot to insert a new case. I have used the casefeeder caliber conversion kit that comes for the 45ACP (red case funnel and red tube stub). With my 40S&W caliber conversion, I noticed there are 2 tube stubs, presumably one for 10mm and one for 40S&W, one of which resolved the stuck problem. Only 1 tube stub came with the 45ACP caliber conversion. 3. The primer seating mechanism on the up stroke and beyond of the press is also driving me bonkers. For 9mm and 40S&W this works fine. For 45ACP, I get 1 primer for every 10 cases that is semi-seated (i.e. protruding) because I didn't apply enough pressure on the beyond up stroke of the press. This mechanism should also have a positive cam action (with perhaps a spring buffer to avoid a compression detonation). I prefer to have it on the down stroke of the press instead of up and beyond. The up and beyond maneuver pushes the table skittering sideways, whereas the downstroke has much better leverage pushing the table down. 4. What's the point of having a primer quick change system if the primer punch isn't part of the quick change? I expected the primer punch to get lifted off as a single unit with the primer plate and tube, but instead had a "WTF" moment looking at issue #1 above. With the 4 problems above, I'm thinking that I'll quickly just need 1 complete press for each caliber and that's becoming expensive quickly to become competitive with say multiple dedicated Lee, or Hornady presses What am I doing bonkers? Thanks!

I guess I don't understand the fascination with shiny brass I would like to know if anything can be added to speed up the cleaning process of removing gunk from the _inside_ of the case, you know ... the stuff you're supposed to clean out?

Gggaaaaah, I just found 10% of my 40 S&W brass with Federal NT brass. None so far in my 9mm brass. Where do you find primers for these "green" cases? 40 S&W regular is already a small pistol primer. These NT primer pockets are smaller than those! They should have used regular sized primers! Grrrrrr!

I ran into this problem too (before I got fedup and replaced the Hornady with Dillon XL650). You can use a Lee Factory crimp die. You don't have to seat the die all the way down (as the ejector wire is in the way). Just seat it enough to clear the ejector wire, and then adjust for the crimp. Hornady should have an FAQ about this, the 5th station is a major cause of setup mistakes and frustration. It's a shame they didn't keep the old design for the ejector wire (moves to sweep the cartridge out). A buddy of mine had an old model with this design and it works really well without having the ejector wire get in the way of the 5th station.

From http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1230. Seems to make sense, has anybody used it? Does the variance without the clamp really get the OAL's off by 0.00x ? Is it worth it? Thanks!