charliez

I am wondering if coarse glass media (or fine sand) would make a good media for web tumbling?

Thanks! Verified with my 1050 manual.

So, good thing about the Dillon 223 carbide die is that it has a stuck case remover built in on occastion when the case is stuck. The Dillon die has a slight round taper at the die mouth and centers the case better (vs. crushed case mouths). Not so good is the decapper is fixed and bends when you run into a hard to extract primer (i.e. won't budge at all). To continue operation the die must be removed and the decapper pin replaced (takes some time to do). I've also used Lee Die, good thing about it is the decapper which is fastened by a collet, it slides up until you fasten the collet to the force desired that punches the primers out. If a primer is stuck hard, the decapper is pushed up and can then be readjusted on the spot (faster to correct than Dillon's). Not so good is a stuck case, you have to use a separate stuck case remover. Also the die mouth is fairly straight, I've had occasions when I had to stop and remove a crushed case due to misalignment. It's a bit of a toss up really :-) Hope this helps.

Another alternative is to use separate powder bars for different loads vs. turning the knob. I then adjust for a different load by inserting a different powder bar already preset for that load. Makes it easy to change calibers when you have just 1 toolhead. I've since settled on having a dedicated toolhead for each caliber & load. It also makes it easy if you load for different power factors of the same caliber, just use the powder bar you've developed for the particular power factor.

On that thought, yes my requirements differ. I reload for bolt action rifles and long range precision.. I processed 5000 rounds of 223 brass for my AR-15 matches, trimmed them (used the RT1200 btw), and haven't had a need to trim them again. The variance is similar to yours. Didn't mean to bad mouth Dillon, it is great for what it is for.

That is awesome! How about the 1050 handle itself? Thanks, Caesar.

I've lost my handle during a move. I had a handle and retrofitted it with an aluminum roller from a 650 handle. Question: 1. How can I order just the 1050 handle? 2. Can Dillon put the aluminum roller on the handle? 3. Cost? Reason I ask is it was pretty hard to retrofit the roller (I had to improvise with a long tweezer plier to remove the ring washer). Thanks, Caesar.

I've been wanting to reload for my 458 socom again but can't find a ready supply for LiL Gun, Reloder 7, or IMR 4198. I understand it basically needs a pistol powder, but which one? same burn rate as Lil Gun? Any ideas? What do you use? Thanks, Caesar.

I have the same experience. It has to do with the heat transferred by the trimmer motor to the carbide cutter. It's all the same steel shaft. The cases will start at the size you set it to, then as the shaft heats up, the cases will start be trimmed shorter. This is due to the carbide cutter being pushed closer to the brass. My solution was to sell the Dillon trimmer and buy a Giraud trimmer, nice consistent case length everytime.

Yup Titegroup, it was available for around 15 minutes or so.

I like having the seater and crimper in separately. Once the seater is setup, I can play with the crimper separately.

After reloading for 3 years, and it was time to move out, I actually only found some 3 live primers under my workbench

Heh, Midway is selling Vibra Prime again? They stopped selling it way back. Good to know.

Congratulations with the 650! I loved it and really miss the quick change tool head (I traded it for a 1050 for production runs which works well for that purpose).

Just know that the 1050 works best for production runs, i.e. reloading a single caliber mostly. This is due to the effort to change the setup to another caliber (it is more involved thatn 650). If you are thinking of reloading multiple calibers, go with the 650 and use multiple toolheads, each having the complete a complete set of dies.

I set the swage for LC with my 1050, and run all kinds of headstamp through it, so far haven't had any problems. I think because the primer pocket conforms to the lc primer pocket dimensions.

Even when using carbide dies, I use Dillon spray lube and let the brass breathe to evaporate the alcohol, then dump them in the casefeeder. It makes for a far more smoother effort, and thus even powder throws, saves the arm muscles too, speedier reloading, and oh so nice butter like sliding :-)

Thanks all! I found Titegroup in stock this morning at Powder Valley! :-)

I'm trying to scrounge around for whatever powder is available in stock. So far I've been lucky in getting some Accurate #7 for my loads. What other powders do you use? (P.S. I use gunbot.net to find in stock stores). Thanks!

Yeah, that's really dangerous there if the squibs don't reliably come out of the barrel with just a primer loaded, if the primer alone doesn't push the round out, one of the 5000K rounds might just cause an overpressure damage. As far as powder check, on a 650 I had 1 station where I installed an RCBS powdercheck die. It is adjustable and will stopped my press if there isn't enough powder volume.

1. Make sure your decapper has enough length to push the primer out 2. Tighten the clutch incrementally until the primer is consistently pushed out Setup was rather tricky for me as well, but it's working now.

Could someone post a picture of where the hose is attached? Thanks!

Looks great, when I checked the bearings link, it says Bearings are not shipped in the box? Are you sure that's the one you purchased? Did it come with the bearings? or was it already mounted in the block, hence not uninstalled in the box. I'm thinking they might have posted confusing information :-)

FYI, I sourced most parts listed below (shoppers beware, I was simply searching for the components myself, haven't ordered yet): If anybody has known good sources please list them so I can be sure to buy the right things safely :-) http://kscdirect.com/item/G%2526G%2B152-08005/G%2B%2526%2BG%2BMFG%2BCOMPANY_1%2B%2B%2BO.D.%2BX%2B1%252F2%2B%2B%2BI.D.%2BX%2B1%252F2%2BW%250A http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=13-A19&catname= http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/products_id/668 http://goosegear.com/215020-wheel-bearing-1-2-x-1-3-8?keyword=215020&category_id=0 http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

One practical easy way I have found is to use Kroil oil dripped liberally from the top of the die on the case mouth so the oil capillaries between the case and die wall. Let stand a few minutes for oil penetration, then use a long awl, or a screw driver to tap the case out, use multiple taps vs. blows. I was pleasantly surpised when it came out after five taps.