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want2race

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Posts posted by want2race

  1. It is a Bianchi Metallic division (NRA Action Pistol) gun that takes advantage of all the rules. I built it on a Fosters frame, Caspian slide with an STI TruBor blank 9mm barrel. I wanted to run a 6.25" barrel with an 8.5" sight radius, yet have a lighter 5" slide. The front sight is from Clarks, sitting in a European style dovetail (along bore, not sideways). The sight sits on the end of the TruBor blank, so it is similar to a sight tracker and gives the extended sight radius without the weight of using a 6" slide. Plus, it is a true 6.20" length barrel which I felt was better than putting a fake comp on a 5" or 6" barrel. Additionally, the heavy (HEAVY) barrel reduces slide velocity. Initially, the slide wouldn't even open after firing a +P round. Barely opened after lightening the slide. Then I started taking weight off the barrel blank until the slide "just" functioned and locked open on empty. Very soft shooting, without being sluggish or slow.

    The rear sight (Shifty Sight) is my own design that shifts Right and Left for the mover event. It returns to center so there is no need to rezero after shooting the mover. The lead length is adjustable for different bullet weights/speeds and barrel lengths. Once set, the sight unlocks, shifts to the stop (right or left), then locks in place. It works great and it probably the best thing I've designed so far, mainly because it is so simple. I can't believe it hadn't been done before. I tested this at Bianchi. After I shot the mover event I went to the practice range to confirm zero at 50m. Put them all in the X ring! I had tested it before the match, but I wanted to recheck it.

    The grips I made from Honduran Rosewood (shut it Wayne). The Prone pad is from Warren, raises the gun up for prone shooting. The trigger is an X-line trigger, I have another post on that elsewhere on this forum. The rules specify a minimum 2 pound trigger pull. I set up the X-line as a two stage trigger, 1 pound initial and 1.03 additional pounds for the second stage. Very, very easy to shoot groups with this set up. This trigger makes the 50 meter line a snap. Sent it to Black Dove for the insane Cerakote job. I specified the colors (something go with the grips) and he knocked it out!

  2. Cha-lee, I understand your point as I've long known the difficulties of setting up 2011's for sub 2# triggers (not recommended) compared to 1911's.

    I've installed an X-line in both a plastic and an aluminum grip.

    The secondary sear angle is removed (or not added if starting with a new sear). My 2011 set up has more sear/hammer engagement and stronger sear spring tension than the previous set up. I did a LOT of testing and tuning on what changes effect what and why. Tried some different things along the way.

  3. You got me on the rules. I was going off memory, which has been declining lately. I will recheck, but I thought it was in there as specifically prohibited. Looking now.

    It's not for everyone, that is true. Just like how I won't spend $125 on tuned 2011 magazines.

    I installed my first one in my Bianchi gun. It is very, very easy to shoot the gun well now. When I'm shooting it I don't notice that the trigger hinges at the top. Still feels like a flat trigger. The best way I can describe is like this: Pull the take up on your current trigger and stop when it stacks on the sear. This is the resting position of the X-line trigger. Now pull the trigger so that the sear only moves 2/3rds of the way off the hammer hook, this is the first stage of the X-line. This position is when the hinge trigger hits the spring plunger (black plunger in pic). The added spring tension gives a second stage, usually an additional 1/2 pound but it's adjustable. Continue and the hammer falls.

    All of the slack and movement in the trigger is gone. I'm pretty good at trigger jobs and removed a 2.10#, Bianchi legal trigger set up that I really liked. Felt really good on the set up and break. Once I got this dialed in, this one is even better.

    I tried setting up my Limited gun with just a single stage. I used a stiff spring in the black plunger and set it up as a trigger stop. I didn't trust my self, so I changed it back to a traditional feeling two stage.

    For Bullseye, Action Pistol etc. I think these will be more popular than for USPSA. Just wanted to share.

  4. 20151023_135921.jpg20151022_152445.jpg

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    I'm a hinge trigger fan. This is not just a redo of 10 year old tech. Significant changes were made to create what I think is the best trigger on the market. Single stage or two stage capable. I can go from 1.3# to 3# trigger pull without changing sear spring tension. Developed for accuracy sports but I also run them in my Limited gun and L10 1911. I can tune the feel and break to any preference, amazingly accurate feel.

    Since the hinge is not allowed in SS division, there is another alternative. A two piece trigger that allows for more adjustment than regular slide triggers. Change the shape or length of pull (or both) as the bow has a threaded shaft that the trigger shoe screws onto. The bow is not too long, like I have found with other triggers. Mine dropped straight into my Springfield frame with no more play than the trigger I pulled out (STI blank). I prefer a reverse curve trigger and Christoph nailed it! Both styles available for both 1911 and 2011's. I'm not a dealer, just a fan of them.

  5. That was my first attempt. Ditched it. Not enough adjustment and was only as secure as a detent and spring. I wanted a locking mechanism. Problem was, my slide was cut for a Bomar. Elevation screw goes into slide. I made a conversion plate. I'll try to post a pic later.

  6. One issue with swapping the windage screw out with the thumb screw is durability. I considered that as well. Bomars barely hold together as it is. I ditched any idea that had threads. I wanted rapid movement with zero counting or thought involved. KISS principle. I'm not an engineer so I my solution is simple, and it WORKS.

  7. Shot my mover rear sight at Bianchi this year. Showed it around a bit. My first design worked but wasn't as adjustable as I wanted. The second method worked out much better. It's simple, easy to use, easy to adjust (lead) and returns to zero. Sight adjustments are seperate from lead settings. I shoot light, fast bullets out of a 6.2" barrel. My lead distance is much less than say a .45 through a 5" gun. I'm not even close to using the full amount of lead possible. My goal is to be able to do both conversions for existing slides as well as put the mover sight directly onto new slides. Eventually. I'd like to put one on a 6" .45 and see how it does using 185 SWC's.

    I shot the full aggregate match on Tuesday, using the mover sight. Re-centered it and went to the practice range to confirm. Shot Practical the next day, one skidder in the 10 ring away from a 478. The design works, so far I have nearly 2k rounds through the gun with no issues. I can't post pics right now, but there are some out there.

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