want2race
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Posts posted by want2race
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Spent some more time comparing this 320 to my M&P last week. I haven't changed the recoil spring in the 320 yet, so my comparison is slightly skewed. Testing back to back with +p and non +p ammo, the M&P is flatter shooting. I will drop the recoil spring rate down comparable to the M&P and test again. I find it just moves around a little more. It is more accurate though, stock. Trigger work definitely helps when shooting groups.
320 grip is super nice, just needs texture. I like the solid trigger over the M&P hinge safety trigger. Most favorable thing about the gun (now) is the sear click during dry fire. Now that I know how to correct the timing (if it's off slightly) to get the striker release and sear reset closer together it doesn't bother me anymore. Kind of makes dry fire enjoyable. Weird I know...
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Just remember, one loop on the G spring has to be "adjusted". Otherwise the trigger pin won't fit through, and it will be slightly long. If the trigger safety doesn't reset, that is most likely why.
To answer an earlier question. I have an Apex trigger spring here, and it does not have the spring filler like the stock spring. So far, zero issues with the trigger.
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I'm the odd one out. I like a sliver of light on both sides of the front sight. Otherwise the front sight wanders in the rear notch. At speed, what looks centered, isn't. I spend too much time figuring out if it's centered or not. I tried narrow front, saw an immediate drop in points. Many more charlies.
I switched to black front last year. Still testing. For widths, with a .115 bomar I'll run a .110 front. For .125 rear notch I'll use a .115 or .120 depending on sight radius. If I can see the front sight through the rear notch, I know it's centered.
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Good drill, and good point about what's in your hand.
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Core work. One of the exercises is for large target transitions. Bicycle inner tube wrapped around a tree, I grab it and pull the slack out while in the "freestyle" stance. Swing left 90*, try to pause. Back to center. Swing right 90*, try to pause. Back to center. Works quads and core. Do it until I can't pause.
Bus drivers with 25# plate. Then I over head press that plate. That works the front of the shoulders. I do other stuff, Rocky style, at a "gym" in the woods. I hate regular gyms (unless it's snowing).
For leg speed work I add trail runs. The short choppy strides while avoiding rocks, roots and holes works my legs way more than straight 6 milers. Plus it's strengthens the calves and ankles more (just don't roll an ankle).
It's not just explosive speed on one stage. It's doing full speed "run throughs" several times BEFORE going live. Then having the endurance for a 10-12 stage match. That's 40-50 100% stage run throughs.
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I do more strength training and cardio than dry fire. I incorporate exercises that mimic movements in stages.
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This one will pick up 3.5, but break with 3.75#. Geometry changes, yep. Made a lighter trigger spring for it too. Still testing.
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You can also use a razor blade and shave .010 from the trigger safety lever block thingy (technical term). You are adding distance so that it will clear the frame sooner as you pull the trigger. Still works as intended.
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I had a chance to look at a Burwell worked gun. We do about the same thing but with different parts. He angles the striker foot, I reshape the sear to the older Apex sear profile. They've since went back to a "hooked" sear (as viewed from the side). I use a Glock armorer plate (the orange one) to check sear engagement too. It works, slides right in. lol. Flattening the trigger bar loop (that actuates the sear) will decrease trigger pull, but increases pull distance slightly (same principle as Glock minus vs stock disconnector but not as drastic). Craytex wheel everything, then polish. The overtravel stop was the most complicated but as I've read there are several ways to accomplish that. I wanted the break further forward, so the overtravel stop was needed. I could take pics I guess. Tactile reset can be done by bending the trigger bar (if you have an older model). Smith has since made improvements to that on newer guns. Don't over bend it as it will slow down trigger reset.
I crush the trigger and so far everything is still working.
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Honestly, I don't even remember. However, I wrote down notes and tested everything along the way. Just don't have it with me right now. I have another stock 320 and I'm going "all in" on this one to see what can be done by the DIYer. Also want to recheck accuracy on this one. The first one was under-welming.
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I have a gunsmith fit Apex barrel on back order. Can't wait to test it.
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Usually it doesn't take long after a gun comes out that DIY stuff starts to show up. I can tune the hell out of an M&P but I spent a few hours looking over the internals of a 320 and so far all I can do is 4# without major changes. My M&P is 2.75# with a stupid short reset. I'm starting to come around on the 320 (slowly), but until I can get 3# or less I'm not interested. The trigger resetting sear may be the limiting factor as far as reset length but that's not as important as break feel to me. I'm too impatient to wait for the Competition model to come out. Plus I like to tinker. The trigger pull of just the trigger mech, no slide, is 4.5# stock. I figure I need to knock that down to 2.5 before putting the slide assembly in play.
I searched here but didn't find much DIY stuff. Interesting.
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I haven't, but I only have about 2500 rounds on this one. iirc the Apex springs don't have the filler widget either. The Glock spring is a tad longer too, but I can work around that to save a buck.
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Just like the 1911 hinge trigger, I should record people's first reaction to my M&P trigger. It's kind of funny because it happens all the time.
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Basically same route I went. Here's a secret, use a Glock trigger return spring. Have to open one loop to fit over the trigger pin though. I use the stock striker spring as it's only a .25# reduction in pull with the lighter one. Not worth it for me. I made an overtravel block that goes into the sear housing and stops the trigger bar. I also move the loop, that actuates the sear, rearward. This moves the release point forward, like a fwd set sear. I do some other stuff to shorten the reset too. In the end I end up with a very nice trigger that cost nothing and breaks at nearly the same weight as my 1911's. I have lots of Glock springs from past trigger jobs on those.
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I've seen 2" groups at 25 with a 9L, as well as 8" groups at 25 with an older standard gun. My current Pro is decent but still throws flyers that cause the groups to open up. I shoot 100gr and 105gr bullets at 1250-1300fps and the groups are just over 2 inches. Slower ammo was worse. Trigger is already done so that's not an issue. After searching for 2 minutes I found what I suspected. Dwell time. I may end up making a new locking block to fix that but for now I ordered the Apex gunsmith barrel to test.
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I can't post the link right now, but if you search Shooting USA on FB you can watch my interview where I attempt to explain both the Xline trigger and this mover rear sight.
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Don't think anyone mentioned "lemon". Just non biased feedback. I've grouped many 320's already. I'm certified on them as well. There are a lot of positive aspects that I like about the gun, the trigger mechanism is not one of them. I'm going to crack that nut, then my opinion may change.
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There is fitting for the hinge. It will be a gunsmith fit for most.
I had a teammate take some material off the back of one of the trigger shoes (slide trigger), then screw it back onto the threaded post. Made it about 1/8" shorter.
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Sent you a PM. Don't lose hope just yet.
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Trigger breaks like a PPQ, but heavier and with a longer reset. Also, during dry fire I could feel the "double click" in the trigger, which is the striker release and THEN feel the sear reset. Some are better than others, just had a compact in my hand that was terrible regarding the double click feel. The 320 I got to tinker with averaged just over 7# trigger pull. Accuracy was disappointing as I was expecting to be "wowed". I wasn't. I benched it the same as I do any other gun I'm testing and although not terrible, it is not to the same level as a P229. It didn't shoot bad, but it was "average" in the accuracy department.
I do like the feel of the 320, both in the hand and slide action. I'm waiting to test the soon to be released target model. Many of the issues I have with it should be resolved.
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Update: I used an X-line in my limited gun and managed to win HOA at MD state last year. It's held up to my death grip trigger finger quite well. Still liking it a bunch. Bianchi gun continues to impress people that try it out. The slide triggers are available now. I haven't had any issues with mine so far. I'm running my koncave trigger screwed all the way in, short as it goes.
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This is what I used last year. Mover positions are independent from sight adjustments. Three positions. Returns to center zero. Adjustable lead. Move the sight the direction of travel. Target moving to the left, shift the sight left.
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Not hard at all if using a bull barrel. Search Hacksaw STI 2011 on here. Cut the slide and barrel down to commander length. Still shot better than 1.5" at 25y afterwards. I don't like cones because the muzzle droops down when the slide is to the rear, makes for a "clangy" slide cycle. If that's the only choice, it will work, it's just noisy and you may see more wear on the top of the hood.
Help me make sense of the M&P accuracy issue.
in S&W (M&P, etc)
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The stuff I have, definitely older. I've seen other changes in Apex parts over the years. Wouldn't surprise me if the spring filler was added later. I've seen at least 2 different sear profiles.