lrjet

Irjet, Does 0.352 sound right? I don't measure much and I may be doing it wrong but the forward end of the cylinder holes measure that on a cheapo dial caliper. later rdd Wish you had a micrometer and telescoping gauge or ball gauge to measure. My guess it would be nice to see a throat diameter .0005 larger than bore diameter. Ideally .3555 to .3565. Since I have heard 38 supers still have .357 bore yours prolly is .3575 to .358. With the calipers that small knife edge flat would give a smaller measurement than it really is. Hope they run the supers.

For those of you that have 38 Supers--what is the ID of the cylinder throats on your revo's

What a great concept! I recall going down that road on the 5" 625 Mike... I'm a buyer at Bangers too...as well as a forum member...this path is well worn. I went down the exclusive road on an AR built for 3 gun in early 2008 and almost got canned for it...thanks to the market madness that started in late Oct 2008 it didn't matter too much, every AR on the shelf evaporated. Well, apparently there were enough letters...we're supposed to have the 300 of the 8 shot 38 Super 627's in May 2009. S&W # 170205 MSRP $1485.00 edit: correction on the MSRP Do you know if the barrel will be a .355-- if so, oh boy here I go again.

Irjet, how do you like the aimpoint micro? I like it, I also have and use c-more's but I do not trust it to hold zero as well as the Aimpoint. It's lens is a bit smaller and the body doesn't seem to bother me but the c-more is more open. The dot is brighter on the Aimpoint and quality is better but it cost more. I can shoot it as fast as the c-more. I like the adjustment clicks on the Aimpoint. I felt my C-more would wander a bit with time and temperature change----did you experience that, but at 15yds no big deal depends on your application.

Here ya go

Ha ha ha you are right on that--dang winter leaves me way toooo much time to mess with stuff than shoot.

Thanks you guys for the explanations that helped

Ok--when the revo is manually cocked back and the half moon tab in the bottom of the frame engages the cylinder that to me determines the lock position. Doesnt the hand that rotates the cylinder is just there to facilitate that position. In the locked tab position there is only a small bit of rotational play. Does the tab and or half moon cut in the cylinder need the machine work. I need a book on revo for dummies. Thx

Curious how a gunsmith does it where does he bend, move or cut the metal on the revo. Saw a tool on brownells catalog that can check this alignment but nothing that I saw on fixing it.

How does one make sure the chamber and bore axis is concentric. When I look down the muzzle of my 627 at lock up I can just see part of the cylinder from about 4:30 to 10:00 position in a moon sliver shape. When the bullet is entering the forcing cone and still in the cylinder the bullet would be cocked out of alignment which would deform the bullet and cause poor accuracy as it spins to the target. Is this proper thinking or not an issue. Thx

When shooting a stage how do you guys bring your mags to the line. I would think a small range bag and a light portable stand to facilitate loads and reloads. Going to the line with multiple mag pouches or using your pockets would be a hindrance especially going prone. Thanks to all for the great responses.

Thanks: Going with a small group that have shot the cup before so that will help. You made some good points, yeah know there are many, sounds like a good turn out this year b fun.

Currently Jay is finishing up my open cup auto. I have only shot 1 match at Kansas City and am going to give it a go this May and I know I will be WAY out of my league. For those that can remember your first time, what did you come away with "the shoulda coulda advise". If nothing else I am going to really enjoy watching all you top and pro shooters. Thx Dave

Doesn't tightgroup have a very high nitro content-- when I tried some in my auto's the barrel would get very hot compared to N320 or solo 1000 which is single base and right at the same burn rate. Tightgroup felt the most harsh but some like it, cheap, easy to find. Agree with Doug on N310 just gotta watch what you are doing.

I am just poking fun at auto's being a low life scavenger--but I like them though :-)

Spent most of the day at Warrens Tool Shop and had him rebarrel my 627. Tool Guy is a master Tool&Die maker and a super nice guy. Being a former Tool maker myself before I became a glorified Grey Hound bus driver I sure appreciate his skills and his shop is second to none I sure was envious! Revo's are just a side hobby to his proto type work. He fielded calls all day from clients and I had a good look at some pretty neat stuff-impressive. Nice having a lot of skilled guys on this forum.

Careful... that sounds like a good way to light one off... the anvil is made that size to prevent you from crushing the primer and lighting it off. IF you must, I would think about putting a step on it... say maybe 15 thousands... that way you could get the deep seat, but are less likely to light one. JT Understand--with the mod I can feel the primer actualy seat then I give it just a bit more to just flatten the primer. With my hand seater that I used before I can seat it deeper so this method does seem a bit safer and I dont have the brass closer in my hand.

Think I found the fix. I chucked up the anvil in my drill press and with a dremel and sanding disk I just ground it so it would slide fit into the primer pocket on my brass. Before it wouldnt. Now I can seat the primer deeper. Should work

My thoughts were to shim the anvil which I am going to try. Just wondered about the higher primer in the bar and cycling threw its stroke.

On my 550, no problem with my auto's but on my Revo that has a light trigger I have to hand seat the primers. Can you modify the 550 to equal a hand seating tool's performance. Thx

Hey, that's as good a reason as any. OK, devil's advocate mode off now! Ha ha its just if I ever go against you I need an accurate revo so my nervous big wobble zone isnt magnified. I need all the accuracy I can get.

I just like to have a revo/pistol to be as accurate as possible-- to me it adds the pride factor of owning and it is a mental thing also. If I understand it right the 1 in 10 twist would be better than a 1 in 18 which is versed for hotter 357 loads. The 1 in 10 should sweet spot better. My guess was that a comp at lower power factor wouldnt do much but I had to ask anyway since I am going to install the Douglas and that would be the time to do the machine work. Guess since I used to be a Tool and Die maker I just have to tinker with stuff. Thanks guys for your input.

AllGood: Thx you always have given good information. Yeah I will do what Warren suggest. I will mostly be shooting steel and maybe some ICORE. Going to shoot BC with an open auto. Do you feel the comp was effective enough to warrent one @ 120PF.

Going to have Toolguy put a Douglas barrel on my Open 627 and would like to know your thoughts if I should have him put a comp on. If so who makes the best comp and configuration. Guess a ti or alum one would be the way to go. Thx

Yeah that would be fun have never shot a USPSA match before. No reason to not give it a go.