mike cyrwus
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Posts posted by mike cyrwus
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Lots of Gun builders build Guns and they don't particularly like to fix up other builders guns, either because they're f-ed up, or abused, or old.. or all of the above. So when ? builders tell you they aren't accepting any work, it's because they have no interest in fixing guns. I'll bet you can get on their new ? list though.
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Jeff Cockrum for president
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info or opinion? put that info right here in this thread.
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Provided that there is no material "in the way" of the new gun it's being popped into, then you basically get anywhere from a good fit to a crappy fit, that will function to various degrees of reliability and accuracy.
unless material is added to the barrel, or you know that the guns slide you are buying it for needs a small link and small locking swing; there prob won't be much to fit
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Sub header for this forum
"Discuss specific techniques to improve your shooting"
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There is another; his name is Lenny, he's ambidextrous and they keep him locked up under grandmama's porch
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A good gel/sorbathane pad turns em into pussycats
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Nothing special about a 9mm bushing barrel fit..
any good 1911 smith you can find will do fine.
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What's cheaper, a EGW sear or a EGW ambi safety?
i don't mill the sear but it's certainly a valid way done by respected smiths
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My opinion; bottom should always be blended while depressed.
Form follows function
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There's nothing inherently different between a trubors trigger and any other 2011 Sti trigger. The one I mentioned up there^ pulls a crisp 2.75# and I'm sure it could be taken down more.
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Sure
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I'm on a iPad, used to be a link at the bottom of the home page to revert to full page format (non mobile)
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You're a lucky guy. I just happen to have a very low mileage one. Pm me if you're interested and I'll fill you in
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i hope its ok to post a link from another forum, there's a nice description of the relationships here from Jerry Keefer, hope it helps
http://1911pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=683
my impression is that by maintaining the barrel seat height to the lowermost aspect of the frame rail groove, many of the internal relationships associated with barrel fit and engagements are preserved...hence one generally only has to modify the other variables (those relationships above the lower aspect of the frame rails and slide).
i would imagine that exceptions exist for the very skilled craftsman, but for the average builder like myself if its that far off i would generally start anew.
that is true, if everything is in spec up top as well as in the frame
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Hi, I don't have time to write a book, lol. Pick up kuhnhausens books, they will help.
Much of my concerns about which to do are regarding barrel swing, locking up and unlocking.
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Wow I have never had an AR barrel that tight. But noted for future reference if I do.
You're missing out
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A lot of flat out wrong way stuff here.
What that barrel "sees" on the inside of that assembled slide and frame can be like night and day, depending upon whether or not you fit it via lowering the slide onto the frame or by adjusting the frame rails. And by night and day, I mean reliability, long term and right off the bench.
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I've only nitrided maybe 30 or so guns and I never experienced or heard of chipping. I do hate anything sharp on a gun though so maybe that's it.
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Black ion bond over hc works great.
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Is this what you're referring to?
That video is filled with cutting edge information from 2003.
Hahaha! Yep
Trijicon MRO......any opinions?
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Good battery life. I've had my two on the #4 setting since I've gotten them for 12.5 months and 11 months, respectively. Still going strong..
when I first got them they looked a little weird and thought maybe they may be a teeny bit over 1x, but now I don't even notice anything once I get to target focusing and driving the gun
i like em, they'll eventually replace my eotechs, which I still like a lot.