matto6

I bought CGW's Ultra-Lite kit (54460) for my Shadow 2, and I'm getting light primer strikes on winchester primers (reloads). This is with the extended firing pin and firing pin spring installed as well. CGW said it's odd that I'm having trouble, as the 11.5 spring should work for winchester primers. But they didn't have any recommendations other than to use the 13 pound spring. It seems weird that I'm the only one having this issue. Is there anything else I can try without jumping up to a 13 pound spring? I'm reading that primer seating depth can help, but I don't think I can adjust the depth on my Dillon 750. I see that Ben Stoeger sells a 12 pound spring. Maybe that's worth a try? https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-shadow-2-sp-01-hammer-main-spring-calibration-kit-by-cz-custom/

Thanks everyone. I confirmed that the slide is identical - they both use the same milling for the rear sight. So as long as sights, hammers, and slide releases are legal it's good to go.

There's CZ A01-LD called the "A01-LD Target". It's just an A01-LD (which is on the production list) and says "A01-LD" on the gun. But it has a few mods. Adjustable rear sight Extended mag release Competition hammer Internal trigger work (clearly legal) Is there any reason to believe this gun can't be run in USPSA production? The folks at CZ custom say it's fine, but I wanted to confirm I'm not missing anything. I don't think the slide is milled differently for the rear sight, but it's not impossible. If it was, does that matter? I saw a rule saying milling for an optic is OK, but it didn't mention for an iron sight.

So the consensus on lube in a progressive seems to be, "Just do it.. it turns out fine."

Right, but if sizing were done in a previous pass, is it possible to use that stage for something else? I think the answer is no because the powder drop can't be moved earlier than stage 2.

I'm also wondering if I could now include a Mr Bullet Feeder, powder check (RCBS lockout die) while keeping separate seat and crimp dies. But I don't think that's possible because powder drop need to stay in station 2, right?

I'm new to reloading, so I am reading the Lyman reloading book while I wait for my Dillon 750 to arrive. One of the things he makes clear is to keep lube of any form away from the steps of priming and dropping powder. He repeats multiple times to wash your hands after touching anything involving lube. Yet I see many folks recommending lube for 9mm in a progressive press. I read things like, "Just make sure not to get too much inside the casing and you won't end up with squibs." I can't say I'm too excited about the possibility of squibs being determined by how much, or the angle at which I spray the lube. And then there's the issue of having to tumble loaded rounds to clean them, which most people say is fine but a lot of resources say to never do. Am I crazy for wanting to make this a 2-stage process, even for 9mm? Would I be the only person on the planet taking this precaution? Stage 1 1. Clean brass in tumbler 2. Spray on dillon lube 3. Deprime and resize (is there that could be added to a prep tool head for 9mm?) 4. Tumble again to remove lube Stage 2 1. Prime, powder, seat, crimp on the 750 It's an extra pass but the Stage 1 would be fairly quick because you don't need to monitor powder, primers, bullets, etc Or does "spray and pray" work well enough that this is truly unnecessary? In that case, why did I buy the Lyman book?

Thanks cjmill87 and Intheshaw1. I won't be doing many calibers - 95% 9mm, and anything else would be low volume. It sounds like the 550 might work fine for me. One issue I have is that I'm somewhat space limited. The 550 "as shown" on Dillon's site is $850. The 750 is $1330 and that includes a case feeder which is $300. I'm having a hard time not going 750 and hoping it's good enough that maybe I don't end up needing to upgrade to an 1100. How much easier is switching calibers on a 550 vs 750? I'm watching some youtube videos now and they both seem fairly involved. The 1100 looks pretty awful to switch.

Bumping an old thread because I have the same question. I'm new to reloading and think I want the 1100 to churn out 9mm, but given the wait time I'm thinking maybe I should start with a 550c - use it for a few months while I learn and Dillon catches up on production of the 1100. When/if I later buy an 1100 I can use the 550 for other calibers in small batches. One thing I'm confused about is what accessories I could buy now in 9mm and eventually move over to the 1100? case feeder, bullet feeder, dies, etc? Could anyone recommend a 9mm starter setup (I guess 550 but not ruling out 750 as it doesn't seem that much more) that would enable me to move most of it to the 1100? Actually, right now I don't even see the 1100 for sale without buying the full kit (bullet feeder, dies, etc) so maybe this plan doesn't work at all.